Isn't anything easy to fix on this thing?
03-25-2004, 03:39 PM
#1
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Isn't anything easy to fix on this thing?
Not sure what the problem is, but everytime I try and do something on this car, something seems to hold up the process. Went to change the rotor and cap, the set screw in the rotor stripped out. Went to pull the timing belt cover off, after removing the air box, one of the intercooler tubes, and several other parts, one of the cover bolts is not visible, nor accessable. The Oil pressure sensor has been leaking for almost 5 years, had it fixed twice, still leaks. Don't know how many tools I've dropped in there to have them dissapear forever (including an oil cap). I'm trying to figure out how much damage there is to the engine since the motor turns over, but the cam shaft doesn't. There's so much crap attached to the basic parts you almost have to disassemble the whole engine to get anything done. Still trying to figure out where the lower bolts for the slanted nose piece are so I can take it off and get the vent holes cut.
Sorry about the rant, but the wife's going to make me sell it if I can't get it running in the next couple of months.
Sorry about the rant, but the wife's going to make me sell it if I can't get it running in the next couple of months.
03-25-2004, 04:35 PM
#5
Race Director
Send it to a decent mechanic, stay in your bedroom for a month. Once month is up, walk outside to meet your running 951. Send him a check when the bill comes. 
03-25-2004, 04:55 PM
#6
Race Director
"after removing the air box, one of the intercooler tubes, and several other parts, one of the cover bolts is not visible, nor accessable."
Yes it is if you have the right tools. Get a 1/4" drive 10mm socket with built-in universal wobble. This and the 13mm one will be your most important tools in working on this engine. Those two sockets alone will save you 10-20% off the total work time.
"The Oil pressure sensor has been leaking for almost 5 years, had it fixed twice, still leaks."
Did you install the sensor with new crush O-rings?
"I'm trying to figure out how much damage there is to the engine since the motor turns over, but the cam shaft doesn't."
Most likely the head is toast with some bent valves. You can at least put a new belt on with the timing correct and do a compression check to see how bad it is. I think you've got a good chance that 50% of the valves are bent.
"Still trying to figure out where the lower bolts for the slanted nose piece are so I can take it off and get the vent holes cut"
That's the least of your worries. Get the darn car running first, then do upgrades later. The bolt's that's holding it in are in the far corners in the fender. You have to pop up the headlights, remove the rubber cover and unscrew the nuts on each corner of the headlight opening.
Do one thing at a time, and do it completely.
Yes it is if you have the right tools. Get a 1/4" drive 10mm socket with built-in universal wobble. This and the 13mm one will be your most important tools in working on this engine. Those two sockets alone will save you 10-20% off the total work time.
"The Oil pressure sensor has been leaking for almost 5 years, had it fixed twice, still leaks."
Did you install the sensor with new crush O-rings?
"I'm trying to figure out how much damage there is to the engine since the motor turns over, but the cam shaft doesn't."
Most likely the head is toast with some bent valves. You can at least put a new belt on with the timing correct and do a compression check to see how bad it is. I think you've got a good chance that 50% of the valves are bent.
"Still trying to figure out where the lower bolts for the slanted nose piece are so I can take it off and get the vent holes cut"
That's the least of your worries. Get the darn car running first, then do upgrades later. The bolt's that's holding it in are in the far corners in the fender. You have to pop up the headlights, remove the rubber cover and unscrew the nuts on each corner of the headlight opening.
Do one thing at a time, and do it completely.
03-25-2004, 06:34 PM
#7
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I will gladly fix everything... Just have to get it here! 
(A little $$ would help too).
It is easy to work on after you have had everything off at least twice. After that nothing seems hard. Patience, determination, and a good tool set will help greatly.
(A little $$ would help too).
It is easy to work on after you have had everything off at least twice. After that nothing seems hard. Patience, determination, and a good tool set will help greatly.
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03-26-2004, 11:21 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
I have to agree with Danno on the order in which to attack things, but I will tell you that to remove the nose piece, you can follow the directions at www.clarks-garage.com and have it off in 15 minutes. However, Clark's directions leave out one important step: there is one screw on each side that attaches the nose panel to the portion of the body on either side of the intercooler (i.e., under the center of the nose panel).
03-26-2004, 01:58 PM
#14
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Originally posted by Sam Lin
Yes, the heater clip is a piece of cake!
Sam
Yes, the heater clip is a piece of cake!
Sam
