Rod Bearing Failure?
04-10-2004, 10:01 PM
#17
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Originally posted by cpt_koolbeenz
It was running with a load for about 30 feet under 3k RPM. Then it was running for about five minutes at idle. That was it. I hope I caught it in time. The pictures above are with the rod bearings still on the crank. That picture is NOT the crank itself! I haven't taken them off to see what kind of scoring is on the crank. The rod cap looks pretty good...
I plan to rebuild the whole thing while it is out. Long-block + seals + multi-angle valve grind + P&P + etc... Maybe lighten crank and flywheel - and clutch job... We'll see how much that will end up costing. I hope I don't need a new crank and rods but I might.
It was running with a load for about 30 feet under 3k RPM. Then it was running for about five minutes at idle. That was it. I hope I caught it in time. The pictures above are with the rod bearings still on the crank. That picture is NOT the crank itself! I haven't taken them off to see what kind of scoring is on the crank. The rod cap looks pretty good...
I plan to rebuild the whole thing while it is out. Long-block + seals + multi-angle valve grind + P&P + etc... Maybe lighten crank and flywheel - and clutch job... We'll see how much that will end up costing. I hope I don't need a new crank and rods but I might.
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~adrialk...ld/rebuild.xls
04-11-2004, 06:32 AM
#18
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Originally posted by 2+2
that sux. How many miles do you have? How frequently does the #2 go anyways? anyone know?
that sux. How many miles do you have? How frequently does the #2 go anyways? anyone know?
04-11-2004, 06:41 AM
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There's a procedure on the Rennlist member's site on how to replace the rod bearings.... It's pretty good (if I do say so myself).
Sorry to see these pics, and hear this too.
There are a couple updates that you can make inside the oil pan to make this not happen nearly as often as it seems. I figure rod bearings are good to replace when you get the car, and every 70-90k miles - it's a good winter project.
HTH!
Sorry to see these pics, and hear this too.
There are a couple updates that you can make inside the oil pan to make this not happen nearly as often as it seems. I figure rod bearings are good to replace when you get the car, and every 70-90k miles - it's a good winter project.
HTH!
04-11-2004, 11:16 AM
#20
I've done my rod bearings in both of my cars at around 70K miles. Neither of them showed any signs of wear. However, I would do them every couple of years in a track driven car. I know there are numerous theories as to why they fail, but I don't think anyone knows why for sure...
My guess is most cars that have failures ran on low oil quantity through a long sweeping turn at some point and started the destruction.
I used the procedure on Clark's Garage, and it is a PIA although not overly difficult.
In this case pay close attention to the crank, it's likely you have some damage
My guess is most cars that have failures ran on low oil quantity through a long sweeping turn at some point and started the destruction.
I used the procedure on Clark's Garage, and it is a PIA although not overly difficult.
In this case pay close attention to the crank, it's likely you have some damage
04-11-2004, 07:00 PM
#22
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The car had 100k on it. I have seen 944/951 make it to 175k+ and not show signs of wear.
The strange thing with my car was the number two bearing went with a bit of water in the oil. All others looked like new. Not sure if the number two was warn before and the water finally set it off, or there is some other "new" underlying problem with the number two bearing oiling/journal etc. that has not been thought about yet.
The strange thing with my car was the number two bearing went with a bit of water in the oil. All others looked like new. Not sure if the number two was warn before and the water finally set it off, or there is some other "new" underlying problem with the number two bearing oiling/journal etc. that has not been thought about yet.