cycling valve and MBC
03-20-2004, 04:30 PM
#1
I never notice, anyway
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cycling valve and MBC
do i need a manual boost controller if i bypass the cycling valve? will my car blow up if i don't? or is the autothority stage 2 like the guru in which the chips dont even use the valve?
03-21-2004, 09:52 PM
#2
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MBC & Cycling Valve
Wow -- I can't believe no one else jumped in to answer this question. It's a common modification.
If you get rid of the cycling valve, first, make sure you plug up the line running back to your J-pipe. You can just cut the line about 1 inch away from the nipple, and then insert a bolt into the end of it and use a hose clamp to secure the bolt.
The pressure line coming off your intercooler pipe will either need to be routed through a boost controller, or in the case of the Autothority Stage II, their special banjo bolt with the air restrictor in it. I'm not much of a fan of the Autothority banjo bolt, so try a Lindsey Boost Enhancer or a Reliaboost if you want something inexpensive that still allows you to adjust the boost.
Best Regards,
Greg W.
If you get rid of the cycling valve, first, make sure you plug up the line running back to your J-pipe. You can just cut the line about 1 inch away from the nipple, and then insert a bolt into the end of it and use a hose clamp to secure the bolt.
The pressure line coming off your intercooler pipe will either need to be routed through a boost controller, or in the case of the Autothority Stage II, their special banjo bolt with the air restrictor in it. I'm not much of a fan of the Autothority banjo bolt, so try a Lindsey Boost Enhancer or a Reliaboost if you want something inexpensive that still allows you to adjust the boost.
Best Regards,
Greg W.
03-22-2004, 01:34 AM
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If you plug the lines on the cycling valve to bypass it and run a line directly from the STOCK banjo bolt to the wastegate without any boost controller, the most boost you will see is 3-5 lbs of boost pressure. This is because the free air signal from the intake manifold will cause the wastegate to open prematurely and prevent the build-up of appreciable boost.
If you bypass the cycling valve, use a manual controller in-line between the intercooler pipe and the wastegate. Preferably one with a failsafe boost control mechanism such as the AccuBoost (www.boostsciences.com). Please forgive the shameless sales pitch.
Hope this helps
If you bypass the cycling valve, use a manual controller in-line between the intercooler pipe and the wastegate. Preferably one with a failsafe boost control mechanism such as the AccuBoost (www.boostsciences.com). Please forgive the shameless sales pitch.
Hope this helps
03-22-2004, 04:21 AM
#6
Race Director
what does the 'failsafe boost control mechanism' mean? i already have an accuboost, btw, damn nice."
That's the mechanism in the stock KLR that cuts back the boost to 2psi max-boost if it detects a fault like overboosting or detonation. But since you've overridden the stock electronic boost-control, there's no way the KLR can dial in the failsafe mode.
That's the mechanism in the stock KLR that cuts back the boost to 2psi max-boost if it detects a fault like overboosting or detonation. But since you've overridden the stock electronic boost-control, there's no way the KLR can dial in the failsafe mode.
03-22-2004, 05:32 AM
#7
sorry, i meant in the boostscience post. he says the accuboost has a 'failsafe boost mechanism', which means what? perhaps referring to the old 'if the bolt/control valve etc falls out, then your boost goes down, not up'.
