Temp sending unit?????
04-07-2004, 01:01 AM
#17
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Eden, UT
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the exact problem after cleaning / washing the engine compartment.
I figured the sending unit went bad, put in the garage for the winter.
Maybe I'll take a look at the ground before replacing it. Also the
turbo water pump kept running for a day after.
I figured the sending unit went bad, put in the garage for the winter.
Maybe I'll take a look at the ground before replacing it. Also the
turbo water pump kept running for a day after.
04-07-2004, 01:01 AM
#18
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Eden, UT
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the exact problem after cleaning / washing the engine compartment.
I figured the sending unit went bad, put in the garage for the winter.
Maybe I'll take a look at the ground before replacing it. Also the
turbo water pump kept running for a day after.
I figured the sending unit went bad, put in the garage for the winter.
Maybe I'll take a look at the ground before replacing it. Also the
turbo water pump kept running for a day after.
04-07-2004, 04:58 AM
#19
Race Director
"New devlopment, Driving the car tonight I noticed the temp gauge fluxuated when I pushed the button for the windows and also when I turned on and off the head lights. I am now sure it is a ground problem. But which one and how many are ther????"
I think you've found the stimulation that drives your "erotic" gauges! And you guys thought only humans respond to Viagra, hah!!
There's at least three grounds that you should check. There's the one for the gauges & computers near the hood-release. Then there's two more on the back of the engine on top of the bell-housing. You'll have to move the wires for the sensors and O2 out of the way to get to those.
But first, tape off all the exposed holes on top of the bell-housing before you start to undo those ground (unless you plan on doing a clutch job really soon anyway). After you've removed the grounds, degrease them and sand all the mating surfaces to clean them up. Also check the area just beyond the connector where the insulation ends. A lot of times there's corrosion there that can case resistance as well as making it real easy to break the wires.
I ended up removing about 1/4" of insulation from the end and soldering the wire to the connector really good (used a small butane torch). Then I wrapped it all up with 2 layers of heat-shrink tubing to seal the ends as well as giving a mechanical strain-relief. Then re-connect the grounds to the engine.
The hidden worry here is that you'll fry your DME computer pretty easily of the engine grounds are bad. The current used by the starter and dash and windows and everything ends up bypassing the engine-grounds if they have a lot of resistance and end up going through the DME instead! In fact, some people have actually fried their DMEs by forgetting to hook up the grounds after a clutch job and just that initial cranking will kill the DME.
I think you've found the stimulation that drives your "erotic" gauges! And you guys thought only humans respond to Viagra, hah!!
There's at least three grounds that you should check. There's the one for the gauges & computers near the hood-release. Then there's two more on the back of the engine on top of the bell-housing. You'll have to move the wires for the sensors and O2 out of the way to get to those.
But first, tape off all the exposed holes on top of the bell-housing before you start to undo those ground (unless you plan on doing a clutch job really soon anyway). After you've removed the grounds, degrease them and sand all the mating surfaces to clean them up. Also check the area just beyond the connector where the insulation ends. A lot of times there's corrosion there that can case resistance as well as making it real easy to break the wires.
I ended up removing about 1/4" of insulation from the end and soldering the wire to the connector really good (used a small butane torch). Then I wrapped it all up with 2 layers of heat-shrink tubing to seal the ends as well as giving a mechanical strain-relief. Then re-connect the grounds to the engine.
The hidden worry here is that you'll fry your DME computer pretty easily of the engine grounds are bad. The current used by the starter and dash and windows and everything ends up bypassing the engine-grounds if they have a lot of resistance and end up going through the DME instead! In fact, some people have actually fried their DMEs by forgetting to hook up the grounds after a clutch job and just that initial cranking will kill the DME.