Erratic Smoking, Frustration
#16
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by David Floyd
BINGO I think you have found the cause.
BINGO I think you have found the cause.
#17
Race Car
Tom, I think what David means is that the mixture is so rich that the unburned fuel is washing oil off the cylinder walls, even making it into the crankcase which will definitely give the appearance of a white/grey smoke.
There should be strong gas vapors in the crankcase and even possibly the oil has a thinned consistency if the problem is severe enough.
Left unattended the pistons and block can be ruined real quick especially under loading.
Terry S.
There should be strong gas vapors in the crankcase and even possibly the oil has a thinned consistency if the problem is severe enough.
Left unattended the pistons and block can be ruined real quick especially under loading.
Terry S.
#18
Three Wheelin'
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Well, this is what I am going to do when the car returns from the paint shop:
1. Check Danno's suggestion about the oil pressure while the car is on but engine not running. This will identify whether I really have a high Oil pressure or just a sender problem.
2. Check to see what kind of AFR I am running at Idle. I still would like to have some opinions on how rich I can go on the idle without running into problems. I can set the Lambda tune feature on the Link to a target Narrowband voltage and the ECU will adjust fuel values until it gets to a target AFR. If I can get the 95 lb/hr's to hold a decent AFR at idle, then I will procede to step three. If not, I will order an adjustable FPR, and rail gauge and turn down the fuel pressure to see if I can get it under control that way.
3. Pull the head again, and thoroughly clean the deck of the block. (The head came back from PD surfaced 0.010 so the head's cleanliness is not an issue). I was not happy with the head torqueing procedure the first time I installed the head. The studs need to be cleaned and lightly oiled. They were a little squeaky and poppy while torqueing, even with new nuts. All this should eliminate the headgasket as an issue. I will call Neil and ask him if it would hurt to use some coppercoat, or some silicone around the coolant passages.
4. Double check all coolant lines/connections while reinstalling the head. Change engine oil and filter. Change coolant.
5. Cross fingers, hop on one leg, douse my old K26 in lighter fluid and dance around it in the driveway, as a sacrifice to the Porsche Gods.
1. Check Danno's suggestion about the oil pressure while the car is on but engine not running. This will identify whether I really have a high Oil pressure or just a sender problem.
2. Check to see what kind of AFR I am running at Idle. I still would like to have some opinions on how rich I can go on the idle without running into problems. I can set the Lambda tune feature on the Link to a target Narrowband voltage and the ECU will adjust fuel values until it gets to a target AFR. If I can get the 95 lb/hr's to hold a decent AFR at idle, then I will procede to step three. If not, I will order an adjustable FPR, and rail gauge and turn down the fuel pressure to see if I can get it under control that way.
3. Pull the head again, and thoroughly clean the deck of the block. (The head came back from PD surfaced 0.010 so the head's cleanliness is not an issue). I was not happy with the head torqueing procedure the first time I installed the head. The studs need to be cleaned and lightly oiled. They were a little squeaky and poppy while torqueing, even with new nuts. All this should eliminate the headgasket as an issue. I will call Neil and ask him if it would hurt to use some coppercoat, or some silicone around the coolant passages.
4. Double check all coolant lines/connections while reinstalling the head. Change engine oil and filter. Change coolant.
5. Cross fingers, hop on one leg, douse my old K26 in lighter fluid and dance around it in the driveway, as a sacrifice to the Porsche Gods.
#19
Three Wheelin'
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I went by the paint shop and turned the key to test out Danno's suggestion. Sure enough, the oil pressure needle pegged out. So it seems to be a sender problem. I have an aftermarket Pressure gauge that I will be installing soon. I am thinking I can narrow the problem down to coolant or fuel. I will check on this when I get the car back.