Fuel Quality Switch on DME Question
#1
Burning Brakes
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Fuel Quality Switch on DME Question
I opened up my DME today to install Autothority Stage 2 chips (I know, the Guru ones are better, but I got these real cheap so I'm trying them), and noticed that the FQS switch was in position #1. Position #0 is stock, as per Danno's web site. I set it to pos #0 and everything is fine, though it ran fine before too.
Question, any reason the PO had it set to #1 ? With the gas in Northern CA, am I ok with the stock setting ? It seems to run ok in both.
Question, any reason the PO had it set to #1 ? With the gas in Northern CA, am I ok with the stock setting ? It seems to run ok in both.
#2
Drive-by provocation guy
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You'll have to check the boards for what setting is which, but with those chips you will want to run the setting that adds fuel, I think #4 (adds 6% more fuel?), as those chips run lean up top.
#3
Race Director
The AutoThority chips use the following FQS settings:
You've just added quite a bit of fuel to the already-rich mid-range. Might find that low-end torque performance is probably worse now than before with more turbo-lag...
Code:
POS FUEL IGN 0 0% 0 1 +12.5% 0 2 -12.5% 0 3 +25.0% 0 4 0% -2.73 degree retard 5 +12.5% -2.73 6 -12.5% -2.73 7 +25.0% -2.73
#4
Burning Brakes
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I'm running is POS 0 now with the chips. Danno, your comment about worse low-end torque and lag - are you suggesting that I should use POS 0, 1, or 2 for optimal performance ? Or are you suggesting I need Guru chips ?
#5
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Sell the Autothority on ebay and get GURU
Probably get $150-250 for them and that is your cost of GURU chip package.
Probably get $150-250 for them and that is your cost of GURU chip package.
#7
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"are you suggesting that I should use POS 0, 1, or 2 for optimal performance?
You'd get the best performance from the APE chips in the #0 position. All the other ones will not give you better performance than that. Here's a site with dyno-comparisons of the APE chips: Farzaan's Dyno Day
You'd get the best performance from the APE chips in the #0 position. All the other ones will not give you better performance than that. Here's a site with dyno-comparisons of the APE chips: Farzaan's Dyno Day
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#8
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Are the Autothority DME FQS switch settings the same for Stage I and Stage II chips? And for a Turbo S Stage II chips, which tend to run lean on the top end, would it make sense to use a different FQS setting, possibly #1? But 12.5% increase seems like it would be way too much of an increase?
#9
Race Director
"But 12.5% increase seems like it would be way too much of an increase?"
Yes, you'd completely wash out the already rich bottom-end/mid-range. The lean top end isn't a problem if you use their banjo-bolt restrictor only to control boost. It will drop max-boost of 15psi down to 11psi by redline. This is the boost-curve that the chips are mapped for. If you use a manual-controller to hold max boost longer, to say... 13psi by redline, then you'll go lean. To compensate, you only want to add +5-8% fuel from 5500rpm onwards. Also different boost-controllers have different boost-curves. For example, the pressure-regulator/bleeder types have a different curve than the check-valve ones (LBE/Reliaboost).
Yes, you'd completely wash out the already rich bottom-end/mid-range. The lean top end isn't a problem if you use their banjo-bolt restrictor only to control boost. It will drop max-boost of 15psi down to 11psi by redline. This is the boost-curve that the chips are mapped for. If you use a manual-controller to hold max boost longer, to say... 13psi by redline, then you'll go lean. To compensate, you only want to add +5-8% fuel from 5500rpm onwards. Also different boost-controllers have different boost-curves. For example, the pressure-regulator/bleeder types have a different curve than the check-valve ones (LBE/Reliaboost).