1989 Turbo Project Valuation
02-28-2020, 02:14 PM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Hmmm, I own a 1988 turbo S with 157K and I love these cars - they are special. What you show here...I know I wouldn't touch it. It just looks like its been trashed and far beyond the 77K miles...are you SURE that the mileage is correct? You haven't mentioned how it runs and that can be an expensive proposition even if you are quite familiar with the car (I'm assuming you know the 996, but do you have the time, tools, knowledge to dive into a 944 turbo engine if you need to?). If you do the work yourself, and the car doesn't have severe problems, you might be able to make the math work - but of course its up to you. I'd be very careful of the mechanical/electrical stuff...they can add up quickly.
Having said that, I know that there are well cared for 944 turbos out there...I own one and they are a delight to drive, maintenance is good because I stay on top of it and 3K per year is low. And importantly, I let the engine warm up gently before exceeding 3,000 rpm and always cool down for a minute or so before shutting off and always use the correct oil (Mobil 1 15-50 or Valvoline 20-50 in my car). I've had more oil flow through that car than it has required, transaxle as well. This is some of the stuff that I would be looking for if I were in the market...I just don't have the confidence that this automobile has had that kind of care. And 944 turbos can be expensive to resurrect - at least in my opinion.
Good luck and if you do buy it I would be interested in further posts on how you do rescue this turbo S. Its a special car and might be worth the effort if everything falls into place.
Having said that, I know that there are well cared for 944 turbos out there...I own one and they are a delight to drive, maintenance is good because I stay on top of it and 3K per year is low. And importantly, I let the engine warm up gently before exceeding 3,000 rpm and always cool down for a minute or so before shutting off and always use the correct oil (Mobil 1 15-50 or Valvoline 20-50 in my car). I've had more oil flow through that car than it has required, transaxle as well. This is some of the stuff that I would be looking for if I were in the market...I just don't have the confidence that this automobile has had that kind of care. And 944 turbos can be expensive to resurrect - at least in my opinion.
Good luck and if you do buy it I would be interested in further posts on how you do rescue this turbo S. Its a special car and might be worth the effort if everything falls into place.
02-28-2020, 02:56 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
6K and not a penny more. Point out ALL, I mean every single thing that is wrong, down to switches on the dash that don't work. Basically show him ALL the work that will have to be done, Make him feel like he will have to do the work, basically give the guy a headache, to where he is like "holy crap, I don't want to deal will all that!, yeah, 6k, just take it!" (point out the rear hatch glass separation, which has most likely happened)
Do a compression test. ask about belts and seals.
6k really is fair. and it wont cost 10K unless you want a really nice car (assuming you do most of the work your self) 5k will get you 90% of the way there, if you just bargain hunt on the usual sources.
Do a compression test. ask about belts and seals.
6k really is fair. and it wont cost 10K unless you want a really nice car (assuming you do most of the work your self) 5k will get you 90% of the way there, if you just bargain hunt on the usual sources.
02-28-2020, 03:15 PM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
6K and not a penny more. Point out ALL, I mean every single thing that is wrong, down to switches on the dash that don't work. Basically show him ALL the work that will have to be done, Make him feel like he will have to do the work, basically give the guy a headache, to where he is like "holy crap, I don't want to deal will all that!, yeah, 6k, just take it!" (point out the rear hatch glass separation, which has most likely happened)
Do a compression test. ask about belts and seals.
6k really is fair. and it wont cost 10K unless you want a really nice car (assuming you do most of the work your self) 5k will get you 90% of the way there, if you just bargain hunt on the usual sources.
Do a compression test. ask about belts and seals.
6k really is fair. and it wont cost 10K unless you want a really nice car (assuming you do most of the work your self) 5k will get you 90% of the way there, if you just bargain hunt on the usual sources.
02-28-2020, 05:08 PM
#19
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've never understood how that tactic works for anyone. As someone who does all my own work I am already aware of everything that is wrong with a vehicle that I'm selling, even the rougher ones. I also try to under sell and over deliver, so it's unlikely that a potential buyer would find something they didn't already know about the car. If someone were to then start reiterating that list at me, I would tell them that I'm sorry the car isn't for them. At this point they've wasted my time, and I'm probably likely to not be inclined to deal. I already know what I need out of a car at that exact moment, so hearing a stranger complain about it just pisses me off. I'm much happier if the prospective buyer just says; I'm only comfortable paying $xxxxx for this car, or it's only worth $xxxx to me. That way I can be appreciative of their time, and keep their offer in my back pocket and if I haven't sold the car in a few weeks I can possibly change my mind and decide to take less for the car than I originally planned. I've also *bought* a lot of cars that way and paid a lot less than sellers were initially willing to take. It does take patience and a willingness to walk away. If the seller gets the sense that you're chomping at the bit to have the car, why would they be motivated to slash the price? who's going to blink first at that point? At the end of the day it doesn't matter why the car is worth a certain amount to a buyer, so why insult the seller by trying to find every tiny problem and telling them what a POS they have?
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t0mbo (03-04-2020)
02-29-2020, 12:09 PM
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, as promissed, here's the outcome... mother nature is cruel. You just can't believe what the elements can do to a car. Ten years of desert sun can turn rubber hard as plastic and foam into dust, as well as carpet....
The engine and turbo checked out great. Very strong and 150 lbs in each cylinder. The only issue was the timing belt seemed to be overtisghtened a bit - it whined. The nails ini the coffin were the respray paint was done really poorly and I feared that unless the whole car was media blasted, evidence of the previous job would deminish any new job. But the real issue was the condition of some of the metal parts (screws, washers, bolts, seat rails, etc.) in the lowest part of the car. They seemed to have a level of rust and corrosion on them that I have only seen on boats near the ocean. While the history of the car doesn't show lon periods of time in seaside towns, it was as if salt water or salty air had taken their toll. My only conclusion was the car had either been in a flood (unlikley given the CA history) or it sat for a LONG time with water in it.
Oh well, it was worth the 3 hour drive with a buddy to go check it out. There will be others.
Thank you to everyone that particiapted in providing ideas, advice and feedback. I hope to talk to you all again in the near future.
The engine and turbo checked out great. Very strong and 150 lbs in each cylinder. The only issue was the timing belt seemed to be overtisghtened a bit - it whined. The nails ini the coffin were the respray paint was done really poorly and I feared that unless the whole car was media blasted, evidence of the previous job would deminish any new job. But the real issue was the condition of some of the metal parts (screws, washers, bolts, seat rails, etc.) in the lowest part of the car. They seemed to have a level of rust and corrosion on them that I have only seen on boats near the ocean. While the history of the car doesn't show lon periods of time in seaside towns, it was as if salt water or salty air had taken their toll. My only conclusion was the car had either been in a flood (unlikley given the CA history) or it sat for a LONG time with water in it.
Oh well, it was worth the 3 hour drive with a buddy to go check it out. There will be others.
Thank you to everyone that particiapted in providing ideas, advice and feedback. I hope to talk to you all again in the near future.
02-29-2020, 06:02 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Well, as promissed, here's the outcome... mother nature is cruel. You just can't believe what the elements can do to a car. Ten years of desert sun can turn rubber hard as plastic and foam into dust, as well as carpet....
The engine and turbo checked out great. Very strong and 150 lbs in each cylinder. The only issue was the timing belt seemed to be overtisghtened a bit - it whined. The nails ini the coffin were the respray paint was done really poorly and I feared that unless the whole car was media blasted, evidence of the previous job would deminish any new job. But the real issue was the condition of some of the metal parts (screws, washers, bolts, seat rails, etc.) in the lowest part of the car. They seemed to have a level of rust and corrosion on them that I have only seen on boats near the ocean. While the history of the car doesn't show lon periods of time in seaside towns, it was as if salt water or salty air had taken their toll. My only conclusion was the car had either been in a flood (unlikley given the CA history) or it sat for a LONG time with water in it.
Oh well, it was worth the 3 hour drive with a buddy to go check it out. There will be others.
Thank you to everyone that particiapted in providing ideas, advice and feedback. I hope to talk to you all again in the near future.
The engine and turbo checked out great. Very strong and 150 lbs in each cylinder. The only issue was the timing belt seemed to be overtisghtened a bit - it whined. The nails ini the coffin were the respray paint was done really poorly and I feared that unless the whole car was media blasted, evidence of the previous job would deminish any new job. But the real issue was the condition of some of the metal parts (screws, washers, bolts, seat rails, etc.) in the lowest part of the car. They seemed to have a level of rust and corrosion on them that I have only seen on boats near the ocean. While the history of the car doesn't show lon periods of time in seaside towns, it was as if salt water or salty air had taken their toll. My only conclusion was the car had either been in a flood (unlikley given the CA history) or it sat for a LONG time with water in it.
Oh well, it was worth the 3 hour drive with a buddy to go check it out. There will be others.
Thank you to everyone that particiapted in providing ideas, advice and feedback. I hope to talk to you all again in the near future.
02-29-2020, 07:20 PM
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
Not really. I asked him what the "other guy" had offered him and he said "$8,250". I told him mhe shoudl call him immediately. I think this kinda surprised him. I told him I was a buyer at $6K. I decided it was such a big project that the price needed to reflect either a more expensive paint job or the possibility of me selling it at a less than finished price. I think the seller has priced the car based on what he wants to get out of it to cover his and his son's cost. He is not pricing it based on what the car is worth. He is focused on the performance and engine and I said that's only half of the picture. I didn't want to haggle. If he calls me back and says he'd go down to $6,500, I might change my mind. It meeds a LOT of work, though. I said he should sell it to someone as a DE or track car.
