KLR

I read the instructions on the Reliaboost site to increase the boost level, but still came away confused after I attempted an adjustment...



I loosened the locknut on the gizmo that the blue arrow is pointing at and then attempted to tighten it (i.e., reduce the number of threads showing between the red and blue arrows). I believe that this it what the instructions tell you to do, but the device seemed to be having none of it (i.e., the gizmo pointed at by the blue arrow did not want to turn, and I didn't know if it was wise to get more leverage from a larger wrench and try to force it).

So... I instead turned the knurled **** pointed that the black arrow points at exactly one turn to reduce the number of threads showing between the black and blue arrows. That was easy, which made me wonder whether that was what the instructions were in fact telling me to do.

Then... I took the car out and saw no change in max boost whatsoever.

Am I correct in assuming that I should now reset the knurled **** back to where it was and follow the original plan of tightening the gizmo that the blue arrow points at so that fewer threads are showing between the red and blue arrows? I just want to be sure, lest I do something that I might regret.

DISCLAIMER: This picture comes from a thread on Danno's website, and shows the Reliaboost installed BACKWARDS. Do not attempt this yourself!

Eyal 951

what happens if you install it backwards? also, when the ansdwer is given, is it the same for the Lindsey unit?
~Eyal

PorscheDoc

to see any change in boost, i had to turn mine quite a few turns.

KLR

Karl,

Which part did you turn? I assume that it was the gizmo that the blue arrow points to?

Eyal,

I don't know about the Lindsey Boost Enhancer. Danno's site (gururacing.net) has the post that explains what happens when it's in backwards. I haven't read it in a while, but I believe that it raises your boost beyond the desired limit.

- Neal

PorscheDoc

Correct, i loosened the lock nut and spun that assembly. I literally turned it probably 10 times from where it was set....carefully if unscrewing it, it will come apart and the ball bearing and spring will fall out....don't ask me how i know.

PorscheDoc

Oh, by the way, i would loosen your banjo bolt and spin it 180 degrees so you dont have the sharp 'U' in your rubber line.

Danno

You adjust it by turning the black ****.

Waterguy

According to the instructions, isn't that Reliaboost oinstalled backwards? The instructions say to install the knurled (black) **** towards the hard pipe/wastegate, not towards the banjo bolt.

OriginalSterm

Waterguy

Doh!

PorscheDoc

Uh now that i look at it, i think mine has the knurled end towards the wastegate. I bought mine directly from boost science and installed via their instructions. So i think that is installed backwards. I don't have the car in front of me to look, i will check when i get home. I have my boost is set at 12-13lbs right now, and works just fine. Hopefully i remember to look when i get home.

Jfrahm

I had one on my Saab until yesterday (replaced it with a T-shaped homemade jobbie) and you do put the knurled **** towards the wastegate. Boost pressure has to unseat the ball bearing, which is at the end of the spring (the knurled **** is on the other end.) Once the spring/ball is overcome, boost pressure can reach the wastegate and open it.

I think if you installed it backwards no pressure would ever reach the wastegate and you'd overboost (if your wastegate spring held.)

-Joel.

PorscheDoc

Yup went and looked, you got her on backwards according to reliaboost instructions

PorscheDoc

oh by the way, run a line straight from the reliaboost to the wastegate and not into the metal venturi tube. That way you have enough room to turn your banjo bolt 180 degrees and keep all the lines straight

KLR

Hmmm... a confusing series of posts to be sure.

1. Do I tighten the black ****, as danno suggests or do I tighten the blue **** (which I suppose has the effect of "untightening" the black knurled ****)?

2. Is it being suggested that the installation depicted in the picture on my original post is correct? This would be counter to Danno's instructions and did not produce a good result for the guy who submitted the picture (i.e., he overboosted).

3. Karl, I thought about skipping the cycling valve, but ended up deciding to keep it in the circuit. In my installation, the bend is not so dramatic as it is in the picture above. Actually, even in that picture, I think that the angle of the shot makes the bend look worse than it is, as the hose from the banjo bolt is too stiff to arc that sharply. BTY -- How did the repairs after your t-belt let go work out?