front splitter
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: seattle
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I talked to AIR he said we need 3 people (I am one) to buy.
$200 for fiberglass
$325 for carbonfiber
if you arte serious IM me ore email me at drwhite152@msn.com
$200 for fiberglass
$325 for carbonfiber
if you arte serious IM me ore email me at drwhite152@msn.com
#18
Race Car
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Mike-
Are you a PCA member? If so, they offer a PCA discount (10% I think) at any time. I got my splitter for $250 shipped without the group buy. $50 more, but you can wait till later after you save some $$$.
Are you a PCA member? If so, they offer a PCA discount (10% I think) at any time. I got my splitter for $250 shipped without the group buy. $50 more, but you can wait till later after you save some $$$.
#19
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Yeah i am, I cant go rennlist group and PCA can i?
I wish. Whichever happens im gonna need to get one as im a fan of upgrading not replacing in most cases. And i found out from my deer miss snowbank/tree hit incident that my batwing is trashed (figured that one out yesterday, aparently no one else saw it either?
)
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#20
Race Car
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Might not have been related to the deer. Mine just sort of fell off for no reason last summer. I guess the rusted mis-matched hardware and zip-ties finally gave out. That's why I "needed" my AIR splitter. Easy to install too, maybe half an hour if you drill big enough holes.
#23
Race Director
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my body shop installed the AIR splitter the 2nd time w/o drilling holes under the mounting holes -they said it was not easy screwing it on without cutting "feeder holes"..but they just got it on, the first time they put it on the front bumper was off, they told me thats the way to do it If I ever have to.
Last edited by SamGrant951; 03-01-2004 at 07:00 PM.
#24
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If you take your time fitting it BEFORE paint, you'll be good to go. I used the stock batwing mounting holes.
- Jack up the car
- Hold splitter in place with a floor jack, tape, and a friend.
- Mark holes with sharpie marker
- Drill holes to hardware size
- On the underside of the holes you just drilled, drill 1/2 inch holes so you can feed the screws into it.
- If needed, the mounting holes can be ovaled to help fit the splitter properly.
I used M12X30 phillips screws and matching spin nuts (the folded metal tabs), and 3/4 inch washers trimmed and glued to the splitter. That baby is rock solid, and R&R is fast and easy. I take mine off pretty often when I detail the engine bay.
Do it once, do it right.
- Jack up the car
- Hold splitter in place with a floor jack, tape, and a friend.
- Mark holes with sharpie marker
- Drill holes to hardware size
- On the underside of the holes you just drilled, drill 1/2 inch holes so you can feed the screws into it.
- If needed, the mounting holes can be ovaled to help fit the splitter properly.
I used M12X30 phillips screws and matching spin nuts (the folded metal tabs), and 3/4 inch washers trimmed and glued to the splitter. That baby is rock solid, and R&R is fast and easy. I take mine off pretty often when I detail the engine bay.
Do it once, do it right.
#26
Race Director
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In the pictures is the AIR splitter, I have a GT-Racing one in transit to my bodyshop. My AIR currently has a nice crack on the passenger side, Im going to fix it and respray it while its off. Then I will have both, I still think the AIR looks better, but I do like both. I should have pics of the gtracing piece mounted in a week or so. Take Care.
#28
Race Car
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Perry-
That's about the same procedure I used. What did you use for the middle mounting locations? I used some big (2") fender washers because I had to drill somewhat larger holes to try and line up those points.
That's about the same procedure I used. What did you use for the middle mounting locations? I used some big (2") fender washers because I had to drill somewhat larger holes to try and line up those points.
#30
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I used all the same hardware for each mounting point. I had to shave a few washers into a D shape so they would fit right. A little epoxy keeps them in place while feeding the screw up and in place.