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Mike - do you know where the other parts of the unit go? I have a MBC i'm not sure everything else is required. Or maybe I have to buy the additional pieces anyways.
Chapman, check out Lindsey racing Venturi delete kit. Hoses can be replaced easily on the metal hoses. I chose to just replace the hoses, kept it stock to the cycling valve. If you go with manual boost, pretty sure you bypass the CV.
The large metal line is the crankcase vent line. You can replacd the hose in the picture with a hose from the parts store. No pressure in this line, just oil fumes.
The other smaller tubes in your picture are for the Cycling valve. If using the cycling valve, these tubes must be connected. One goes to the banjo bolt (pressure to CV), the second goes to J-Pipe (vent from CV).
When you go to an MBC, you must cap lines from CV and cap J-boot where CV vent hose connects.
The MBC goes in line between banjo bolt and top of factory single port WG. You take CV out of the equation, you can keep it in place just disconnect it and cap the lines attached to it. Of course you disconnect and cap the hose from CV to WG. When you remove the intake, you can remove CV and associated hoses.
For single port WG, for best performance, use a ball-and-spring MBC. For the hoses, hi-pressure fuel injection hoses work well. Some use silicone hoses, but unless a very good quality, they tend to swell up from the heat by the WG.
When using an MBC, if the outside Temps vary much so does your boost. You must readjust.