jedi951

Hey guys!! O.K. my question is...prior to removal of intake manifold the car seemed to boost properly. When i removed the intake I found a few isues with the vacc. lines one of them was the one going to the cycling valve. THis line ( from banjo bolt) had broken off taking the nipple with it. I did a ghetto repair to see the difference in performance and now Im only going up to 1.2 bar in the stock gauge. When I had the cycle valve off I blew into the the NOW repaired nipple and air would come off the w/g side of the valve..my quest. is , is this a broken valve? If so how much are they I cant seem to fint anywhere?..thanks and sorry for the long post!!

jedi951

By the way I have a busted BOV to add to that..

Jeremy Himsel

Jedi,

I have a cycling valve that is 3 months old (essentially new) and works perfect. Make me an offer. Otherwise Paragon and Pelican sells them. I think the real name for it an air timed valve.

jedi951

Have to check on pricing before I can offer. Still cant find it under "air timed valve".

Jeremy Himsel

Give Paragon a call. They were the cheapest. IIRC, I think it was $60.

jedi951

O.K.

eclou

I have an almost new stock BOV if you need one 4 sale. email me

elou@Houston.rr.com

Mike B

I also have a "as new" cycling valve or timed valve available if Jeremy's sells. Bought it new and used it for a couple of months. If Jeremy's is sold then this is available otherwise see Jeremy.

Here is a link to a rather large picture.

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/cycling_valve.jpg

jedi951

O.K. so far I found the parts here, but should this be my problem? I just drove the car with the hose to the w/g clamped and noticed a slight increase in boost. Still caughs a little while trying to achieve boost and it varies depending on which gear Im in..3rd seems to produce better boost while 1rst spoools up to 1 bar then decreases. Also, where should my stock gauge be while the car idles? mine sits right at the .4..or whatever the first number is....thanks oh...Ill get back to you on the parts..

Jeremy Himsel

If your BOV is bad then you won't make appropriate boost. Couhing is probably a vacuum leak somewhere.

cpt_koolbeenz

You can also replace your CV with a Reliaboost or some other type of MBC or EBC. www.gururacing.net for the Reliaboost.

Danno

I'm also carrying the new AccuBoost as well. Allows for faster and more accurate cycling action for flatter boost regulation. Easier adjustments as well, although that can be as much of a disadvantage as a useful feature.

jedi951

I was doing some reading on reliaboost...what happens to the third hose that normaly attaches to the cv? how do you know what psi youre setting it to? I guess KLR is no longer used right?