Looking to Purchase a 944 Turbo
#1
Looking to Purchase a 944 Turbo
Hello,
I’m new to the forum and I’m looking closely at a 1986 944 turbo. Can anyone give me a list of questions to ask the seller and things to look for in the car? I’ve owned vintage BMW’s (M635csi), this will be my first experience with Porshe. Thank you in advance.
I’m new to the forum and I’m looking closely at a 1986 944 turbo. Can anyone give me a list of questions to ask the seller and things to look for in the car? I’ve owned vintage BMW’s (M635csi), this will be my first experience with Porshe. Thank you in advance.
#2
Drifting
There are great already-made lists of what to look for when buying these cars. First stop would be clark's garage: https://clarks-garage.com/purchase.htm
Much of this is very similar to buying any vintage car. Body issues such as rust or accident repair is your first check (IMHO). After that, go through the info linked above. Good luck!
Much of this is very similar to buying any vintage car. Body issues such as rust or accident repair is your first check (IMHO). After that, go through the info linked above. Good luck!
#4
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The above list is a good start. In addition to rust and body damage there is the interior. The dash is a big item, finding one without cracks is a huge plus, the condition of the leather seats also important. Carpet can be replaced, not a huge deal.
Do you want an all original stock car, or are you looking for a driver to modify and play with?
And on this note, I have a MY86 951 Red with black interior, I may be persuaded to sell for the right price (not dealing with tire kickers) No cracks in the dash, power/heated sport seats, upgraded turbo, and of course Vitesse MAF, large injectors, upgraded fuel pump. O-ring head with Wide fire gasket, performance cam, SFR headers and a dual port WG, EBC. Aftermarket free flowing exhaust. Tires with less than 1000 miles...... Less than 100 miles on timing & balance belts.
Do you want an all original stock car, or are you looking for a driver to modify and play with?
And on this note, I have a MY86 951 Red with black interior, I may be persuaded to sell for the right price (not dealing with tire kickers) No cracks in the dash, power/heated sport seats, upgraded turbo, and of course Vitesse MAF, large injectors, upgraded fuel pump. O-ring head with Wide fire gasket, performance cam, SFR headers and a dual port WG, EBC. Aftermarket free flowing exhaust. Tires with less than 1000 miles...... Less than 100 miles on timing & balance belts.
#5
The above list is a good start. In addition to rust and body damage there is the interior. The dash is a big item, finding one without cracks is a huge plus, the condition of the leather seats also important. Carpet can be replaced, not a huge deal.
Do you want an all original stock car, or are you looking for a driver to modify and play with?
And on this note, I have a MY86 951 Red with black interior, I may be persuaded to sell for the right price (not dealing with tire kickers) No cracks in the dash, power/heated sport seats, upgraded turbo, and of course Vitesse MAF, large injectors, upgraded fuel pump. O-ring head with Wide fire gasket, performance cam, SFR headers and a dual port WG, EBC. Aftermarket free flowing exhaust. Tires with less than 1000 miles...... Less than 100 miles on timing & balance belts.
Do you want an all original stock car, or are you looking for a driver to modify and play with?
And on this note, I have a MY86 951 Red with black interior, I may be persuaded to sell for the right price (not dealing with tire kickers) No cracks in the dash, power/heated sport seats, upgraded turbo, and of course Vitesse MAF, large injectors, upgraded fuel pump. O-ring head with Wide fire gasket, performance cam, SFR headers and a dual port WG, EBC. Aftermarket free flowing exhaust. Tires with less than 1000 miles...... Less than 100 miles on timing & balance belts.
#6
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Probably mid teens. To purchase and have someone install the performance parts, you'll spend about $10k. If seriously interested, email me directly.
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#8
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#9
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So what is your frustration level?
#10
Pro
My list from my Apple notes a few years ago when I bought a 39K miles pretty pristine 86 944 Turbo. I made this list from browsing around so much of it is borrowed (but compiled) from others...
THINGS TO CHECK FOR when buying porsche 944 Turbo
UNDERNEATH
Leaks underneath / esp trans and trans oil cooler
Power steering leaking - chk driver side anti roll bar for swelling which indicates leaking fluid
Oil leaks underneath
UNDERHOOD
Chk for coolant in oil / oil cooler seals
Battery in engine compartment pass side - pull it out and look for corrosion on battery tray
Headlights open / close properly ?
Fuel lines on fuel rail - go across manifold - have they been replaced?
INSIDE:
Dash Cracks up by defroster vents (hard to see)?
Warning lights when starting car — what should illuminate (?) - chk central warning light, seat belt light
Sunroof - opens / closes - no clicking ?
Windshields very expensive - chk for cracks or delamination around the outside - and is it original ?
Broken center console hinge ?
Front windows not too slow
Run through all the settings for the electronically controlled heating system and make sure it works as it should. Check that warm air is directed correctly and, when you press the demist button, that the fan goes to full power and that all hot air is directed at the full width of the windscreen. If air-conditioning is fitted (it’s not that common) check that this works, too.
TRUNK:
Is sunroof bag there?
Retractable rear shade OK ?
Trunk - pull carpet look for build sticker
chk delaminated rear glass (at top, the black strip)
jack, spare, pump, tool roll sunroof cover
DRIVE:
Start from cold
Clutch w/ rubber damper - lots of backlash ?
shift light
The other important idle test is oil pressure. Expect to see between 2-5bar. When the car is cold, 4.5-5bar pressure is fantastic. After it warms up, the oil pressure can get down into the middle 2 bar range, but much lower is a warning sign.
Suspension - floaty and worn or good / tight?
Any clicking from rear CV joints on acceleration or turning slow speeds in parking lots ?
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK
Key for alarm (pics of keys?)
Chk rock chips up front / repaint on bumper
Find service receipts - water pump, timing belt, steering rack (looks likes maybe so since reservoir replaced w/ black one)
AC? works ?
Hopefully clutch in service history
Has the orig windshield? - Look for label
THINGS TO CHECK FOR when buying porsche 944 Turbo
UNDERNEATH
Leaks underneath / esp trans and trans oil cooler
Power steering leaking - chk driver side anti roll bar for swelling which indicates leaking fluid
Oil leaks underneath
UNDERHOOD
Chk for coolant in oil / oil cooler seals
Battery in engine compartment pass side - pull it out and look for corrosion on battery tray
Headlights open / close properly ?
Fuel lines on fuel rail - go across manifold - have they been replaced?
INSIDE:
Dash Cracks up by defroster vents (hard to see)?
Warning lights when starting car — what should illuminate (?) - chk central warning light, seat belt light
Sunroof - opens / closes - no clicking ?
Windshields very expensive - chk for cracks or delamination around the outside - and is it original ?
Broken center console hinge ?
Front windows not too slow
Run through all the settings for the electronically controlled heating system and make sure it works as it should. Check that warm air is directed correctly and, when you press the demist button, that the fan goes to full power and that all hot air is directed at the full width of the windscreen. If air-conditioning is fitted (it’s not that common) check that this works, too.
TRUNK:
Is sunroof bag there?
Retractable rear shade OK ?
Trunk - pull carpet look for build sticker
chk delaminated rear glass (at top, the black strip)
jack, spare, pump, tool roll sunroof cover
DRIVE:
Start from cold
Clutch w/ rubber damper - lots of backlash ?
shift light
The other important idle test is oil pressure. Expect to see between 2-5bar. When the car is cold, 4.5-5bar pressure is fantastic. After it warms up, the oil pressure can get down into the middle 2 bar range, but much lower is a warning sign.
Suspension - floaty and worn or good / tight?
Any clicking from rear CV joints on acceleration or turning slow speeds in parking lots ?
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK
Key for alarm (pics of keys?)
Chk rock chips up front / repaint on bumper
Find service receipts - water pump, timing belt, steering rack (looks likes maybe so since reservoir replaced w/ black one)
AC? works ?
Hopefully clutch in service history
Has the orig windshield? - Look for label
#11
My list from my Apple notes a few years ago when I bought a 39K miles pretty pristine 86 944 Turbo. I made this list from browsing around so much of it is borrowed (but compiled) from others...
THINGS TO CHECK FOR when buying porsche 944 Turbo
UNDERNEATH
Leaks underneath / esp trans and trans oil cooler
Power steering leaking - chk driver side anti roll bar for swelling which indicates leaking fluid
Oil leaks underneath
UNDERHOOD
Chk for coolant in oil / oil cooler seals
Battery in engine compartment pass side - pull it out and look for corrosion on battery tray
Headlights open / close properly ?
Fuel lines on fuel rail - go across manifold - have they been replaced?
INSIDE:
Dash Cracks up by defroster vents (hard to see)?
Warning lights when starting car — what should illuminate (?) - chk central warning light, seat belt light
Sunroof - opens / closes - no clicking ?
Windshields very expensive - chk for cracks or delamination around the outside - and is it original ?
Broken center console hinge ?
Front windows not too slow
Run through all the settings for the electronically controlled heating system and make sure it works as it should. Check that warm air is directed correctly and, when you press the demist button, that the fan goes to full power and that all hot air is directed at the full width of the windscreen. If air-conditioning is fitted (it’s not that common) check that this works, too.
TRUNK:
Is sunroof bag there?
Retractable rear shade OK ?
Trunk - pull carpet look for build sticker
chk delaminated rear glass (at top, the black strip)
jack, spare, pump, tool roll sunroof cover
DRIVE:
Start from cold
Clutch w/ rubber damper - lots of backlash ?
shift light
The other important idle test is oil pressure. Expect to see between 2-5bar. When the car is cold, 4.5-5bar pressure is fantastic. After it warms up, the oil pressure can get down into the middle 2 bar range, but much lower is a warning sign.
Suspension - floaty and worn or good / tight?
Any clicking from rear CV joints on acceleration or turning slow speeds in parking lots ?
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK
Key for alarm (pics of keys?)
Chk rock chips up front / repaint on bumper
Find service receipts - water pump, timing belt, steering rack (looks likes maybe so since reservoir replaced w/ black one)
AC? works ?
Hopefully clutch in service history
Has the orig windshield? - Look for label
THINGS TO CHECK FOR when buying porsche 944 Turbo
UNDERNEATH
Leaks underneath / esp trans and trans oil cooler
Power steering leaking - chk driver side anti roll bar for swelling which indicates leaking fluid
Oil leaks underneath
UNDERHOOD
Chk for coolant in oil / oil cooler seals
Battery in engine compartment pass side - pull it out and look for corrosion on battery tray
Headlights open / close properly ?
Fuel lines on fuel rail - go across manifold - have they been replaced?
INSIDE:
Dash Cracks up by defroster vents (hard to see)?
Warning lights when starting car — what should illuminate (?) - chk central warning light, seat belt light
Sunroof - opens / closes - no clicking ?
Windshields very expensive - chk for cracks or delamination around the outside - and is it original ?
Broken center console hinge ?
Front windows not too slow
Run through all the settings for the electronically controlled heating system and make sure it works as it should. Check that warm air is directed correctly and, when you press the demist button, that the fan goes to full power and that all hot air is directed at the full width of the windscreen. If air-conditioning is fitted (it’s not that common) check that this works, too.
TRUNK:
Is sunroof bag there?
Retractable rear shade OK ?
Trunk - pull carpet look for build sticker
chk delaminated rear glass (at top, the black strip)
jack, spare, pump, tool roll sunroof cover
DRIVE:
Start from cold
Clutch w/ rubber damper - lots of backlash ?
shift light
The other important idle test is oil pressure. Expect to see between 2-5bar. When the car is cold, 4.5-5bar pressure is fantastic. After it warms up, the oil pressure can get down into the middle 2 bar range, but much lower is a warning sign.
Suspension - floaty and worn or good / tight?
Any clicking from rear CV joints on acceleration or turning slow speeds in parking lots ?
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK
Key for alarm (pics of keys?)
Chk rock chips up front / repaint on bumper
Find service receipts - water pump, timing belt, steering rack (looks likes maybe so since reservoir replaced w/ black one)
AC? works ?
Hopefully clutch in service history
Has the orig windshield? - Look for label