dga

I almost fully installed my M Tune from LR.

There is a lone red wire that comes out of MAF...where do I connect that?

Sorry if obvious but I searched and no one mentions it...

shortyboy

Red wire goes to the round plug on the diagnostic plug. See image.

mahoney944

This is where Lindsey racings instructions tell you to install. But any 12v switched source will do.

mahoney944

Please post your first start up results too.

dga

I plugged that red wire into the cycling valve (unused in my case)...seems to be good I think.

So.....upon the first start after installing a K27 turbo, M-tune kit (already had A-tune), changing all vacuum lines and most radiator hoses is that:

IT STARTED SMOOTHLY!

I can't believe it. After it warmed up a bit, idle seemed to stay at 1100 but then if I press the accelerator a bit it seems to kick out of the idle mode and then drops to 500-600 RPM and wants to turn off. My AFR at 1100 was 12.X and then when it goes down to 500 is >16. If press the accelerator, its hard for me to bring the AFR up. I did not do extensive testing though....done for the day.

Perhaps this is the fuel-mixture adjustment which can be done with M-tune. I did not touch that setting so it is whatever it was stock.

Also, I might have messed-up the turbo waterpump. When engine goes off, the pump comes on but it does not seem to turn itself off. I did change the thermostat switch. Maybe I damaged the connection wire? What does the thermostat switch due? Does it "short the cable to ground" when hot? Or the opposite?

Advice welcome but I have to experiment still...

About HP change, no clue yet....car is still in garage and half off the ground...

mahoney944

Reset the idle. Look up Clark's garage or I think Lindsey has it on their site.

shortyboy

The turbo water pump stays on for 1min after shutting off the engine. Check that you got the right temp rating on the thermostat.
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Droops83

Double-check that you indeed installed a SWITCH and not a SENDER (which will always have continuity to ground), and check the temperature rating.

The turbo water pump runs for ~30 seconds after the key is cycled regardless of temperature. If the water temperature in the turbo is above the rated temperature of the switch (either 105 or 110 degrees C for the factory version, I can't remember which), the pump will run another 30 seconds until the temperature is cool enough and the switch opens. A sender will keep the pump running continuously because it provides a path to ground regardless of temperature.

mahoney944

I got my lr mtune kit running best by letting the car warm up for about 20+ minutes then resetting the idle screw on the throttle body (instructions on Clark's garage). Next I would install the jumper wire with the car running at idle in the diagnostic port (same as when you set your idle). While doing so I would then check my wb02 gauge to see how close to 14.7 it was. In my case I had to switch the fqs to position 6 (-11% fuel) which brought my afr to 14.5. After adjusting the fqs to get close to 14.7, remove the jumper wire. Your idle will return to 14.7 closed loop. Finally, I would repeat this entire procedure one more time.

The thought process here was to try to get my open loop afr to be close to my closed loop afr at idle which means the car has a less drastic change to make while making corrections.. My setup is very custom so you may not have to pull or add fuel as much. This made my cold starts easier and reduced many odd behaviors. That being said I've decided to try a vitesse maf out because there were some odd idle behaviors I couldn't correct using mtune.

bumflick

Congrats on first start. I installed my M tune at the same time i did a turbo swap and exhaust refresh, so was chasing a lot of issues at once.

The high idle, especially when warm is common. Re-setting the idle is key. Other discussion threads on here seem to indicate that the dash rev counter reads a bit high. Factory recommended warm idle is 840 ± 40, but M tune users seem to have more success going a hair lower. .

It has also been said that the Bosh 3 bar FPR is set a bit high, so pulling fuel via the fqs makes sense.

I'm still chasing the high idle on mine - I resealed the the throttle body (not sure if it helped or not, but the 30 year old o rings in there were garbage) and have a new idle control valve to put in.

mahoney944

Are you basing the high idle on the gauge or from the logger? When I set my idle I use the logger numbers, seems to give better results. You may want to adjust the needle on the gauge once you set it with the logger... The key is to really warm up the car. Take the car for a 20 minute drive then set the idle. If you set the idle then adjust the fuel pressure or fqs after , youll need to adjust the idle again. The screw gives you a base idle or starting point. The isv then adjusts it to be about 840/880. Your base idle will change slightly with weather.

Dan Martinic

Since the ISV works to adjust the idle to the recommended setting, and since it's pretty hard to get an accurate rpm measurement (esp for those without a way to log or tap into the DME), I set my warm engine idle by turning the screw to match the jumper-ed test port.

By matching the non-ISV influenced idle with the ISV idle, I figure that's pretty close. FYI using this technique, my dash gauge reads about 900-950 rpm. I get a little off-throttle dip sometimes, nothing too low, and sometimes a slight bump as the injectors are turned back on around 1200rpm.

I don't have any chips: all-stock electronics (for now)