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brake options 3.0,16 turbo

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Old 02-03-2019, 01:01 PM
  #31  
V2Rocket
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Originally Posted by Northern porker
What is more important piston size or brake pad area.
pad area is important obviously because of rotor contact.
piston size will determine the pressure being applied to the pad for a given brake pedal mashing, something to tune.

another thing to consider is rotor diameter - larger rotor effectively gives you a longer "lever" for the brake torque to act against the spinning wheel.
downside is larger usually means heavier, and that weight is further out so more inertia.

maybe solution, big discs with alloy hats and lightweight wheels?
Old 02-18-2019, 05:49 PM
  #32  
Northern porker
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket
pad area is important obviously because of rotor contact.
piston size will determine the pressure being applied to the pad for a given brake pedal mashing, something to tune.

another thing to consider is rotor diameter - larger rotor effectively gives you a longer "lever" for the brake torque to act against the spinning wheel.
downside is larger usually means heavier, and that weight is further out so more inertia.

maybe solution, big discs with alloy hats and lightweight wheels?
good advise
Old 02-19-2019, 12:17 AM
  #33  
michaelmount123
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The caliper combination is severely compromised if there's not proper bias between front and rear braking. If you've changed to a non-stock caliper, you'll likely need an adjustable bias valve on the rear (or maybe front) brakes (Tilton recommended), and appropriate master cylinder sizes. How do you set them? It's a two person job. Put the car on jack stands, and have one person push the brake pedal until the fronts just lock up (determined by 2nd person turning the tire). Hold the brake pedal in that position and the rear tire should barely turn. This will put you very close to optimum braking with the fronts locking up just before the rears. This is how I set bias on my race car and it works. If you don't dial in your brakes in this manner, you're wasting your time and $ buying calipers. If you can't adjust as above, either your master cylinders (most likely if dual) or your calipers need changing.

Put some effort into this and you'll be pleased with the results. Don't short-cut the process.

MM
Old 02-19-2019, 09:08 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by michaelmount123
The caliper combination is severely compromised if there's not proper bias between front and rear braking. If you've changed to a non-stock caliper, you'll likely need an adjustable bias valve on the rear (or maybe front) brakes (Tilton recommended), and appropriate master cylinder sizes. How do you set them? It's a two person job. Put the car on jack stands, and have one person push the brake pedal until the fronts just lock up (determined by 2nd person turning the tire). Hold the brake pedal in that position and the rear tire should barely turn. This will put you very close to optimum braking with the fronts locking up just before the rears. This is how I set bias on my race car and it works. If you don't dial in your brakes in this manner, you're wasting your time and $ buying calipers. If you can't adjust as above, either your master cylinders (most likely if dual) or your calipers need changing.

Put some effort into this and you'll be pleased with the results. Don't short-cut the process.

MM
Thanks. I will make sure this is done.



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