Air/fuel guage in clock?
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I have seen a few of you guys that have the air/fuel ratio guage that fits where the clock is, how are those? How easy is it to install? What all do I need? Also, I can't find any places on-line that sell them, where do you guys get them from?
Mike
Mike
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Yep, I sell them. They are a breeze to install. They snap right in place of the old clocks circuit board. Use the same housing and everything. They wire up right under the dash.
www.rennbay.com
www.rennbay.com
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How good are they guages? Can you tell when you are running say, 12.5 or so? I am looking for a air/fuel ratio guage that is VERY close. It doesn't have to be RIGHT now, but I would like something that is close. Does each bar mean .5 or what? Does anyone have this upgrade, if so, what do you think? Thanks.
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I have one and like it quite well. Very easy to install. Plus, Travis is extremely helpful and has great customer service. If your clock isn't working, its a great upgrade!
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I hate to get into this because there is so much to write on it. You can do a google search for this and come up with HOURS of reading.
This is a basic rundown of how it all works.
The O2 sensor outputs a 0 to 1 volt signal which tells the car the air/fuel ratio. The gauge basically takes a passive reading from this signal wire, takes the spikes out of the signal then outputs it to the light bar. What you get is a smooth (not jumpy) but accurate and quick reading of what the sensor is outputting. The gauge breaks that 0 to 1 volts up into 10 sections (10 lights). The true output range is a little more than 0v and a little less than 1 but it is compensated for in the gauge.
Now converting the lights into what your air fuel ratio is easy. Included with the gauge is a chart that tells what each light corresponds to in terms of A/F ratio. The output of the sensor is not linear so you have a much higher resolution in the middle 4 lights than you do on the outer 3. The higher resolution is right where you need it so it works out well.
Similar charts can be found all over the place online to give you an idea of how it all works. Do a few searchs and if you still have questions just email me.
This is a basic rundown of how it all works.
The O2 sensor outputs a 0 to 1 volt signal which tells the car the air/fuel ratio. The gauge basically takes a passive reading from this signal wire, takes the spikes out of the signal then outputs it to the light bar. What you get is a smooth (not jumpy) but accurate and quick reading of what the sensor is outputting. The gauge breaks that 0 to 1 volts up into 10 sections (10 lights). The true output range is a little more than 0v and a little less than 1 but it is compensated for in the gauge.
Now converting the lights into what your air fuel ratio is easy. Included with the gauge is a chart that tells what each light corresponds to in terms of A/F ratio. The output of the sensor is not linear so you have a much higher resolution in the middle 4 lights than you do on the outer 3. The higher resolution is right where you need it so it works out well.
Similar charts can be found all over the place online to give you an idea of how it all works. Do a few searchs and if you still have questions just email me.
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For a wide band I would go with a digital gauge. They are more exact but cost a lot more. With a wide band you are also reading a 0 to 5v signal and not the standard 0 to 1 you get with a standard O2 sensor.
As far as running a standard o2 sensor, the rennbay gauge is a great way to go. It can let you know if you are rich or lean at different RPM ranges, which is what they were originally designed to do. Your computer compensates for small fluctuations but everything runs better if you can tune them out yourself.
As far as running a standard o2 sensor, the rennbay gauge is a great way to go. It can let you know if you are rich or lean at different RPM ranges, which is what they were originally designed to do. Your computer compensates for small fluctuations but everything runs better if you can tune them out yourself.