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oil temp sender installed

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Old 01-20-2004, 02:40 AM
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eclou
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Default oil temp sender installed

I just installed my autometer oil temp sender in the oil drain plug as others have done. For anyone looking to do this it is not very hard. It took me about 15 minutes to do during an oil change:

1)remove drain plug. Notice it is already center punched to make drilling easier. I used first a 1/8" bit to make a pilot hole. Then I used a punch to knock the magnet out.

2)follow with a 21/64 size bit to open up to size.

3)tap with a 1/8 npt tap. Use lots of oil to help the cutting go easier. I tapped the plug and tested the sender fit multiple times to make sure the sender goes in deep enough without bottoming out. Use telfon tape to seal the sender in the plug.

4)I ran a wire from the gauges into the bay through the big grommet near the fuse box. Then I ran the wire along the lines near the coolant tank and dropped it down to the PS rack area. Zip tie along the way and then run it to the sender. I did not want to run it on the passenger side for fear of melting the wire from the exhaust heat.

5)check for leaks
Old 01-20-2004, 01:24 PM
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951Racer
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You can also tap the turbo oil return banjo bolt on the other side of the pan. Temps will a little bit higher due to the oil returning from the turbo, but this is a lot easier than having to deal with sending unit every time you change your oil.
Old 01-20-2004, 02:02 PM
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p0wp0w
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951Racer:
If you tap the turbo oil bolt, is this the same process as described above, just for a different bolt?

Eclou:
Which gauge did you get and from where?
Also where in Houston are you located?
Old 01-20-2004, 02:34 PM
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Is teflon tape recommended in this application?
Old 01-20-2004, 02:57 PM
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eclou
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Teflon tape is recommended by Autometer. I used the Ultra Lite 100-250 C electrical gauge from Competition Sales for $45.

I live in the Memorial City region of Houston, and frequently go to bug Chris and Viking at Viking Motorsports in Stafford with my endless inane questions.

The extra work involved in having to remove the sending unit wire with each oil change seems rather paltry to me after having done belts&rollers, waterpump, thermostat, rod bearings, clutch&ltw fly, coilovers, etc. I figured also if I botched the drill and tap job another drain plug is alot easier to get and re-work rather than any other fixed parts like the oil lines, oil pan, etc.
Old 01-20-2004, 10:56 PM
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oh wow,
I take my car to Viking's as well, I'm like 8 minutes from him! Haven't been there in a while though cause the car has been running great, but will soon need a clutch job done. Thanks for the info, this is on my to do list haha



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