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Just got hit, anybody have a estimation on damage while I wait on an adjuster

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Old 07-30-2018, 04:16 PM
  #61  
951and944S
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Originally Posted by Dash01
Since the OP got and checked the factory measurement of frame specs and found them OK, and since the hood and doors were not noted as binding or compromised in their travel, exactly what says the frame is damaged in any way?

The OP's insurance company reportedly says they'll sell the car with clear title, so presumably they don't see undue or disqualifying damage from a structural standpoint, but rather total the car from for economic reasons.

So, how did we leap to the conclusion that the whole body shell is faulty, rather than simple replacement of the header panel, one or both pop-up headlights, a fender, and bumper cover repair?
Good question.

I originally said "easy fix", the bridge piece that goes over radiator is rolled forward.
He couldn't get hood open at the time, he was worried it would be totaled.
I posted a pic of something way more extreme that was properly repaired, no problem. (And posted pics of the repair)

People called it out as "fantasy" and made claims that either (my example or his) could "never be straight" and that the best thing to do is "walk away".

LOL X 944...., I;m trying to coach the guy through it with moral support (like I always do) but yet, I'm the one being "negative and derisory".....

T

Old 07-30-2018, 05:13 PM
  #62  
Dash01
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Originally Posted by 951and944S
Good question.

I originally said "easy fix", the bridge piece that goes over radiator is rolled forward.
He couldn't get hood open at the time, he was worried it would be totaled.
I posted a pic of something way more extreme that was properly repaired, no problem. (And posted pics of the repair)

People called it out as "fantasy" and made claims that either (my example or his) could "never be straight" and that the best thing to do is "walk away".

LOL X 944...., I;m trying to coach the guy through it with moral support (like I always do) but yet, I'm the one being "negative and derisory".....

T
Seems to me, the OP could do a small upward re-bend of the front section back to within factory specs (if not already so), to tweak mount points for the header and eliminate any nose droop. OP could rebend it back such that the piece over the radiator (and holds the header panel) moves slightly aft, restoring proper gap between header panel and hood. A floor jack and block of wood, applied to the underside of each bumper mount or to the bumper (not the urethane bumper cover, but the metal bumper itself after removal of the bumper cover) may suffice: Simply jack it up a bit to allow new header, etc. bolt holes to line up. Then bolt on new or repaired header, fender, bumper cover, and respray. Some mounting holes could be marginally enlarged or elongated, to fit the outer panels properly, if needed. This part of the car is largely for impact absorption and to hold the header, etc., rather than structural support of engine/suspension/torsional loads, etc., and the now slightly misshapen sheet metal will still be more than adequate to hold up non-structural parts like the header and bumper cover.

You and I know that, having already done it ourselves at economical cost, so we favor keeping the car on the road. Others, perhaps with pecuniary interest in retailing used parts, may find cannibalization to be a more lucrative enterprise...
Old 07-30-2018, 06:21 PM
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951and944S
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Originally Posted by Dash01
Seems to me, the OP could do a small upward re-bend of the front section back to within factory specs (if not already so), to tweak mount points for the header and eliminate any nose droop. OP could rebend it back such that the piece over the radiator (and holds the header panel) moves slightly aft, restoring proper gap between header panel and hood. A floor jack and block of wood, applied to the underside of each bumper mount or to the bumper (not the urethane bumper cover, but the metal bumper itself after removal of the bumper cover) may suffice: Simply jack it up a bit to allow new header, etc. bolt holes to line up. Then bolt on new or repaired header, fender, bumper cover, and respray. Some mounting holes could be marginally enlarged or elongated, to fit the outer panels properly, if needed. This part of the car is largely for impact absorption and to hold the header, etc., rather than structural support of engine/suspension/torsional loads, etc., and the now slightly misshapen sheet metal will still be more than adequate to hold up non-structural parts like the header and bumper cover.

You and I know that, having already done it ourselves at economical cost, so we favor keeping the car on the road. Others, perhaps with pecuniary interest in retailing used parts, may find cannibalization to be a more lucrative enterprise...
With you all the way....!

Ultimately, it's owners call and it seems he's letting it go.

I gave away an '87 944T, 50% complete car to a track buddy from Mississippi.
A Rennlister from here on the forum.
His son crashed his S2 head on.
He was/is an insurance adjuster and knew with donor parts the car was fixable.
They cut away what they needed and pulled the transmission and callipers for me (all I wanted) and grafted whatever they cut from the Turbo onto the S2.
This guy is around body shops every d@mned day and would never attempted a fix if he thought it "could never be straight again"...

I have been around body and paint since I was 15 years old, my first after school job was wet blocking high end show car finishes.
25 more years around a different body shop owned by my father in law.

I don't talk smack just to be typing, I know WTH I'm talking about....

T (adding you to my friends list.... )
Old 07-30-2018, 07:01 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by lart951
don't fall for the body shop "I can fix that" I have straight unmolested shells for free, a 944 once the chassis is bent it CAN'T be fixed, they just want your money.
Pastor Luis knows.
Old 07-30-2018, 07:28 PM
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I am going to have body shop look at it and make a decision based on the outcome. I probably won't know much until late next week. In the mean time I will change my mind about what I'm doing a hundred times because nothing seems very clear right now
Old 07-30-2018, 10:55 PM
  #66  
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Seems to be a pretty straight forward decision. You get X $$ from the Insurance Co. Body shop says X $$ to fix it. Does it make sense? Too bad you can't handle the repair yourself. A day in the garage this car could be stripped down to evaluate the damage. I still say it's probably just sheet sheet metal. All of it is available from Lart.
Old 07-31-2018, 02:48 AM
  #67  
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I’ve been following this thread for a bit now. That’s honestly an easy fix. Luis is just looking to scare you because you made it easy for him. He is a politician. And it’s not a convertible so the chances that your chassis is bent even a little is very slim. Seems like it’s just the hood support bracket that needs to be bent to it’s proper location or replaced to me as well as replacing the wrecked panels and headlight mounts. I replaced the passenger quarter panel on my car along with the outer wheel well without issues. That was some work though. You can see it in my photo’s. But it’s not my car nor my time and money. If you decide to sell if for cheap then Luis is your man. Good luck with whatever you do.
Old 07-31-2018, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Humboldtgrin
I’ve been following this thread for a bit now. That’s honestly an easy fix. Luis is just looking to scare you because you made it easy for him. He is a politician. And it’s not a convertible so the chances that your chassis is bent even a little is very slim. Seems like it’s just the hood support bracket that needs to be bent to it’s proper location or replaced to me as well as replacing the wrecked panels and headlight mounts. I replaced the passenger quarter panel on my car along with the outer wheel well without issues. That was some work though. You can see it in my photo’s. But it’s not my car nor my time and money. If you decide to sell if for cheap then Luis is your man. Good luck with whatever you do.
after the body shop is done this is the way is going to look


Last edited by lart951; 07-31-2018 at 04:33 AM.
Old 07-31-2018, 08:11 AM
  #69  
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If the body is straight and you plan to keep it and get carbon fiber and/or fiberglass hood and panels, you could vinyl wrap the car instead of having it painted. That way you can change the color of the car every few years when you get bored of its current color.
Old 07-31-2018, 10:47 AM
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The Russian master, Arthur Tussik -


T
Old 07-31-2018, 07:23 PM
  #71  
Dan Martinic
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A 1997 VW Golf diesel of mine got hit in front and was repaired at a VW dealer. The repairs were almost 10K. The car was worth maybe 15K. I begged the insurance to fix it, and they said yes.

Looked good.. drove good... except for one interesting thing: the "harmonic balancer" (crank pulley) seemed to wobble a little. As I was quite a young dude with a who cares attitude, I thought little of it.

Took about a year and a half for the crank pulley bolt to snap and take the diesel top end with it.

Every time I've looked at a used car since, I always watch that pulley turning lol
Old 08-09-2018, 02:05 PM
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I just got word from the shop and the damage to the car is beyond the amount of work I want to put into it. I am going to sell the car as is and start the search for another.
Old 08-09-2018, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Druepy
I just got word from the shop and the damage to the car is beyond the amount of work I want to put into it. I am going to sell the car as is and start the search for another.
Sorry to hear that, but I understand your predicament and so think that's your best choice. Pls. keep us posted on price and availability, if planning to sell as is. BTW, is it drive-able, and did you find the coolant leak?
Old 08-09-2018, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dash01
Sorry to hear that, but I understand your predicament and so think that's your best choice. Pls. keep us posted on price and availability, if planning to sell as is. BTW, is it drive-able, and did you find the coolant leak?
I still don't know what is causing the coolant leak. The mechanic that looked at it said something about the radiator pinching a hose because it is pushed down. That's all I know. I will have to figure out a price
Old 08-10-2018, 09:42 AM
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for anyone interested, I am going to take offers on the car. I don't really know what's fair but I think the engine is worth atleast $2k. If I am wrong about my price point just let me know. To the right person who is handy I think this could make a worth while project. The car has a clean title


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