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Thanks for the comments. Little update: estimate came back at just over $10k in damages and that's before they can even get a look under the hood. Things are chalking up for them to make a total loss claim. I don't know much about how they are deciding the value of the car but I have heard that any work done in the last 12 months can be added to the value of the car. I think I have spent about $4k in the last year. Maybe this can get the value high enough to avoid the total loss claim. I am a little scared about a $10K total loss claim because I bought the car for $10k and and have put at least $7k in over the last 3 years. I am really torn because I tend to shy away from cars that have been in accidents but I love my 951.
So they are calling it a total loss but they will let me buy it back and the car will still have a clean title (I have never heard of this and did not know it was possible. I guess in Texas insurance companies total cars at 75% of their value but if the owner selects to retain ownership the car is not considered totaled if it less than 100%). This is the route I am going to go. The damage is repairable and I'd hate to see this car get parted out or have a salvage title. I don't know what I am going to do with it though. I am going to get the hood open to try to access the damage and then either have it repaired or find someone who will want to repair it.The other insurance company is taking liability and luckily the accident was cut and clean so there was absolutely no fighting or negotiating.
I've seen a "paint-less dent repair" guy make worse looking damage smooth again. However, I understand it's hard to find the guys with that level of skill.
The nose panel is still available from Porsche--$500 CAN. I don't know about the plastic bumper, but I bet a good dent repair guy can make the fender right.
Looks like all the stuff the panels and headlights attach to are bent though. What is the biggest part of the 10K repair estimate?
these cars come apart pretty darn easy. It looks like only sheet metal damage and a bumper cover. If you do the wrench turning you could be all in for probably less than 5k including all new paint.
So they are calling it a total loss but they will let me buy it back and the car will still have a clean title (I have never heard of this and did not know it was possible. I guess in Texas insurance companies total cars at 75% of their value but if the owner selects to retain ownership the car is not considered totaled if it less than 100%). This is the route I am going to go. The damage is repairable and I'd hate to see this car get parted out or have a salvage title. I don't know what I am going to do with it though. I am going to get the hood open to try to access the damage and then either have it repaired or find someone who will want to repair it.The other insurance company is taking liability and luckily the accident was cut and clean so there was absolutely no fighting or negotiating.
Well, I'm happy for you about the clean title, but it would certainly make me think twice about buying a used car from Texas!
I fixed a 944 NA that hit a concrete wall at 90 mph at an angle and the car/driver went faster lap time that it ever had on it's maiden event after the crash...
This car is totally repairable.
OP, cut the nose panel up to relieve the stress and gain access to the hood latch.
Once you get hood open, look at the frame rail on passenger side right next to the header and near the oil filter, same position on other side.
If there are no bend/kinks there you are golden, even if there are, car is still repairable.
If you report back damage as described above, I will post pics and step by step on how to repair it,
I fixed a 944 NA that hit a concrete wall at 90 mph at an angle and the car/driver went faster lap time that it ever had on it's maiden event after the crash...
This car is totally repairable.
OP, cut the nose panel up to relieve the stress and gain access to the hood latch.
Once you get hood open, look at the frame rail on passenger side right next to the header and near the oil filter, same position on other side.
If there are no bend/kinks there you are golden, even if there are, car is still repairable.
If you report back damage as described above, I will post pics and step by step on how to repair it,
T
I took the nose panel off last night but I still can't get the hood open. I will fight it again tonight but the damn mosquitos make it hard to last long out there
I took the nose panel off last night but I still can't get the hood open. I will fight it again tonight but the damn mosquitos make it hard to last long out there
The hit in that nose panel, a crease, shrinks the dimensions of the part, meaning it pulled unit body bridge piece over the radiator forward.
Get someone to work the hood release cable on your word to synch with the second that you tap a wooden dowel with a medium hammer(cut broom handle, etc.) against the top center of that latch support.
If you hadn't recently lubed the latch, some lube like spray lithium will make it easier to open than dry, especially with a tension load on it.
I got the hood open by unbolting the male side of the hood latch from the hood itself. Even after the latch is free to move without the hood I still can't get it out of the female portion. Below are some pictures. I can't find the coolant leak source. It seems like the headlight skew is stemming from the cross member being pulled down.
You need an accurate point to point measuring tool called a tram gauge.
Any accurate form of measurement will work but if you could get a rigid tube with one slide-able pointer per end, this is all the better because some of the measurement points are offset and not on an even plain where in which case, you would have no problem with a simple tape measure.
Let me see if I can paste the data drawing you need, I just captured them and printed the side view to build a transport dolly for a tub I'm working on that doubles as a tilt fixture for priming entire tub.
07-24-2018, 09:21 PM
