Tom M'Guinn

Should. It's got to be going somewhere. It may just be your valves are open though...

Dan Martinic

Hey Darren! A mechanic told me that an evap smoke machine wouldn't make enough psi to see an exhaust leak; if so, I doubt you'll find your issue with smoke.

Have you tried the stock DME? Switching that out isn't too bad and worth seeing what happens.

BTW I'm surprised at all the high psi pressure testing! The WM suggests 5psi; couldn't high psi-s cause AOS leaks? I know the turbo boost levels are high but that's engine running & exhaust flowing?

Dave W.

Like I said, just make sure the engine is NOT at TDC since that's when one cylinder will have both intake and exhaust valves open at the same time. The best position is 90 degrees after TDC.

DarrenD

That's great advice, thanks.

Turns out the smoke machine at work wont work anyway, so I'm back to searching for it without smoke.

Noahs944

What we used on diesel engines to check for atmospheric and boosted charge air and exhaust was a lid that replaced the boot at the large compressor housing turbo opening. It was a snug fitting hard rubber lid with a pressure gauge & shrader valve. We then sealed the tail pipe. We then slowly filled valve with regulated air up to 15psi. Then we sprayed soapy water on all seals & clamps, hoses, cooler, manifolds, turbo, exhaust, etc. This is the best method, and it supposedly doesn't matter about engine position.

is what I'd do. I also have be burned by the smoke device... waste of my time.

DarrenD

Sounds like a good plan. I'm going to try and get this done this weekend.

DarrenD

So I was just pressure testing the system. I got everything sealed up and applied the compressed air. I heard a leak under the IM so I started feeling around and sure enough, there was a leak! It was at the little two pronged heater thingy that sits behind the cycling valve(which I've removed)
So I bypassed it and then pressurized again, no leak!

So I went for a drive. No change.

So no leaks up to 20 psi. and no change in how Pig Rich it runs.

Next up, get the Datalogger working. I'm moving at the end of August so the car will get put away until my move is finished, then I can come back to it. If I still can't get it sorted, I'm either going LS V8, or Megasquirt Standalone.

Humboldtgrin

DarrenD

The last of the leaks is gone. The vacuum hose at the bottom of the TB was leaking now we can pump it up to 20psi and it holds, for a very, very long time. No audible leaks at that pressure.

Still running 10-1. So we know it's not a boost leak.

I cannot seem to get the datalogger to connect. It's wired correctly but no dice.

DarrenD

So there is the one that is in the M-tune intake tube, thats the air temp sensor. It's new, doesn't mean it isn't faulty, but it is brand new.

Then there's the coolant temp sensor. The car does run very rich at idle when cold and then runs stoich once warmed up. This leads me to believe it is functioning correctly.

Tom M'Guinn

Worth testing the DME temp sensor since the oxygen sensor may be able to mask it at idle and part throttle. For that matter, what happens if you disconnect the o2 sensor at idle?
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-19.htm
I'm still suspicious of the m-tune parts or tune if everything worked fine on stock parts.

DarrenD

It appears as if it doesn't matter where the gas pedal is. The moment I hit boost, it's goes pig rich. MAF or MAP?

Still no luck with the datalogger. :-(

Tom M'Guinn

I'd be curious if it is truly tied to boost, or if it actually goes rich when it switches over to the WOT maps. You can tap into the WOT signal in the diagnostic port and watch it with a multimeter or LED.

DarrenD

But if my foot is only at part throttle it shouldn't be in the WOT maps. The moment it transitions from vacuum to boost it goes 10-1. if I'm not in boost and go WOT the afr's only go 10-1 the moment I'm in Boost.

I tried for hours last night to get the datalogger working. Multiple computers, no luck. It must be the wiring. But I checked the wiring many, many times. I am wondering if I shouldn't run a supplemental ground to both the datalogger, the MAP sensor and the wideband directly to the battery post ground.

Tom M'Guinn

The KLR triggers the "full load" signal (aka WOT) at a throttle position of 65 degrees, so your foot does not need to be on the floor to get into the WOT maps (at least with the factory chips). If you floor it at 2k rpms (pre-boost), does it not go overly rich? That said, if it really goes to 10:1 exactly when it transitions from vacuum to pressure, you might test the map sensor with a multimeter. I'm not an m-tune user, but it's probably a 3 wire sensor -- power (12 or 5 volts, need to check), ground and a voltage output correlated to pressure. If you powered the map and watched the voltage output on a volt meter, you could suck/blow on a vacuum hose to see if the output goes haywire when under pressure. Might also double check the FPR to make sure its holding pressure and vacuum (and not just dumping fuel as soon as it sees pressure). Grasping at straws a bit, but it's got to be something (if not the maps themselves).