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Hi guys,
I’m installing a 968 CS sway kit and the rear bush seems too small for the bar. It’s got the correct 964 number for 19mm sways but it’s hard even with larger pliers to get it together. When measuring its inner dia seems closer to 17mm but couldn’t find my gauge.
And are the bracket supposed to seal against the torsio tunnel side of the bracket or have a couple of mm space...?
I’m guessing here that the 19mm quoted on the 964 sway is the effective rate and that the bar is a tubular one of 17mm actual diameter. Much the same as many tubular bars are quoted on the 944, whereas on the solid bars the actual diameter = the effective diameter.
I suspect you need to buy actual 19mm bushes made specifically for the 968 CS 19mm solid rear sway bar rather than one made for the 19mm effective rate tubular sway bar fitted to the 964.
Again, I’m guessing here in the absense of anything else that would make any sense.
I had the same problem a few years back and thought I had quoted the wrong number when I ordered but still installed them, if they are a bit tight. It hasn't been a problem.
On second thoughts Thom is correct. I’ve just checked on an original bar that I previously removed from a car and I’m sure the bar and bushes are original from the factory. The bushes definitely measure smaller (13mm) than the bar (14mm) and the bushes when fitted look exactly like yours. I guess they make them tight fitting and rely on the clamp compressing them.
...Should the clamp be tight against the torsion clamp...
Yes the bolts need to be torqued against the torsion bar carrier. I would try some rubber lubricant, I’ve used Hellerine in the past for fitting tight grommets or pulling cables through wiring looms.
I just went through this a couple months ago. Yes, It is a pain to get them back on. I believe I caught one bolt - the upper, then had to use a vice grip to clamp the lower side of the bracket to get it close enough where the lower bolt cold be hand threaded on. I also purchased new bolts, that were about 5 mm longer than stock. There is not a lot of room back there, so you can't go with too long of a bolt.
And my situation was compounded by the fact that apparently someone before me had forced the issue and cross threaded it, so the threads on the TB carrier were buggered. Had to take the sway bar back down to get enough room to chase the threads.
Thanks guys it’s finally on it’s own rear feet after more than one year in the air...
With a lot of persuasion the bar was finally successfully installed and things got super tight.
Along with new drop links, discs, pads, HR coilovers, longer wheel bolts and various hardware I could install the wheels and lower it down.
Looks so great and can’t wait till the front is finished for the test drive!
Remember that the final torque of the sway bar clamps and links should be done with the suspension under load, not hanging fully extended. Same applies to the front sways, control arms and trailing arms. The clamp bolts should be loose until you load the suspension. You need to torque the sway bar clamp bolts to OEM spec which is not super tight 25Nm if I remember correctly.