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Awesome! Glad it fit. Don’t forget to buy a replacement bolt
At least one person around here put in regular bolts. I’m curious how the socket fits in there. I continue using the hex/allen head originals.
Save one of the old sensors to make a gap tool and glue that washer good; you don’t want it falling in. I used crazy glue but frankly, it chipped off pretty easy. Wonder what others use?
Got the gap set using the .8mm washer glued onto the old sensor (including the figure 8 washer under the sensor to set the gap). Tightened up the allen-head bolts as tight as I could get them by hand with the allen-key - no hex heads were stripped in the process!
Put the new sensors in and took the car for a spin.
Drove it around for about 10 minutes and then pulled over to the side of the road and witnessed no convulsions like it used to do. When it is warm it still does seem to hover around 1100 and once in a while I can see the idle speed dip - probably due to the ISV intervening.
So I think my next job is to set the idle speed lower. But for now (and I know it is still pretty early) I am very pleased with the results and I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread.
I would also think about cleaning and re sealing the ISV since it is so easy to do if you follow my thread. Mine had the dried up seal that leaked and was dirty. I used Isopropyl Alcohol to clean mine and Naptha on the non electrical parts.
I also used a small amount of Permatex Ultra bond to seal up the end of the electrical plug end.
Make a note of the orientation of everything when taken apart if you decide to do this.
Well, thought my problems were over after adjusting the idle down to under 1000. Tonight was driving the car for an extended trip and while I was coming back into to and pulled up to a stop light the engine stalled on me as I had the clutch pushed in coasting to a stop... grrrr
Wondering where to go next. It doesn't seem to do the hiccup dance anymore but the idle does hunt around when I am at a dead standstill. And now that it killed on me once, I'm going to be nervous about it doing that again. That can get very embarrassing...
I haven't tested for vacuum leaks yet, but I don't have the original setup any longer. The airbox is gone in favor of a cone filter and it has the Vitesse MAF. So I'm not quite sure how to test for vacuum leaks other than spraying starter fluid around and I'm not too keen about that idea...
In the stock setup, you put a locally-made cap with air fitting in the J-boot; I made mine from a white plumbing pipe end cap that fit nicely (drilled a hole, threaded, and glued in an NPT fitting for my compressor to hook up to). You could also put a schreader (bicycle valve) but I think you'd be constantly pumping! I found even my big tank compressor kept recycling. I don't know how everyone keeps the air in... it keep flowing past valves or something.. but it's enough to catch leaks with soap and water.
Couldn't you just remove cone filter and fit a homemade cap? Surely there must be an appropriate opening to cap and fill?
Whatever you do to pressurize it make sure to disconnect and cap the AOS port on your MAF/J Boot so you don’t pressurize your crank case. You could always just locally make a cap pre MAF or turbo. Although it would probably be better just post turbo, as that’s where there is pressure, if you’re confident in the couple clamps and connections involved Post MAF pre turbo. Or go MAP based and eliminate leaks on principal, not because they are throwing anything off.
Ok, I am updating this after 3 years of driving the car with a crappy warm idle. Seems there were a couple different things going on here. Someone early in the post mentioned that the previous owner may have adjusted the idle higher to cover up a different problem. I believe that is the case. When I had adjusted the idle to sit at just under 1000 rpm the car would shake violently and seem like it was just going to stall (and did stall on me several times at stop lights - especially with the a/c on). I had gone til now with the idle at about 1100 rpm to prevent it from stalling, but not getting just too much vibration. My daughter took it for a spin not long ago and she had a hard time starting it after shutting it off. It would start and then stall over and over. I finally got fed up with how it was idling.
I can't believe it took me this long to find the glaringly obvious issue here. Warm idle problems = temperature issue
After a bunch of searches and reading thru clarks garage links, I decided to test my DME temp sensor. It had no reading at all - I thought maybe my meter's probes might not have been touching the contacts correctly so I popped the DME plug off and went from pin 13 to ground...same thing - open circuit. Removed the sensor and tested it one more time - again open circuit. So I ordered a new sensor and tested it before putting it on the car and it showed a resistance across the two terminals and the resistance changed when I ran it under hot water so I figured that should do it.
I put the new sensor on and the car is a completely different car now! Drives like it should. Before with the old broken sensor the DME was thinking the car was cold all of the time and was dumping it too much gas (especially at idle) and basically flooding the car. So happy to have the car running as it should again.
Now I need to adjust my idle back down again. I should be able to get it under 1000 now and it doesn't vibrate like it used to when the idle was rough before.
06-01-2018, 06:03 PM
