MPrew1

Hi Guys and Girls,
I hope some of you are as active with this forum as you used to be, I have learned so much from them, but I'm now stumped.
I have bought my 6th version of the 924/944 machines. This one is a 1988 951. (Started in the UK with a 924T, then 924S with Rover V8, then '86 944T here in Australia, then a '90 Turbo 'S'. then built a Carrera GT replica (my current track car) NOW my everyday '88 951
Sorry to ramble, but just wanted you to know I'm serious about these motors.

SO, the new toy won't start. No spark. Tried all the usual tests (reference sensors read fine, jumped the DME relay, checked all voltages and resistances from DME harness plug, checked continuity from DME plug to KLR plug. The car will ONLY start with the KLR bridged (pins 9 to 16)

Opened up the KLR (finding somebody in Australia with a known working example is 'tough' to say the least) found one or two 'maybe suspect connections, so re-soldered. My gut is the KLR unit is fine.

Car stopped almost like a fuel issue, after an uneventful 90 min drive, got home, left on drive and it just spluttered to a stop. Would not start again without the KLR bridged.

What I do notice is no movement from the factory boost gauge whilst trying to start, or when running in the bridged state. Pipe to KLR intact.

Car is unmodified. Alarm is bypassed.

ANY advice will be appreciated.

fast951

Your KLR box is bad/damaged or you could have a KLR chip gone bad. I have seen a few chips go bad for no reason (except age?). Try a different KLR chip first.

MPrew1

Thanks fast951. The plan was always to boost a little into the sweet spot of 16 psi (98 octane is standard here) so a good starter. Didn't know chips could go bad.

Tripl7

KLR #9 & #16 are the ignition input/output at the KLR for timing retardation purposes. If jumping them let's the car run then I would have to agree with Fast951 that there is an issue with the KLR, or the chip.

MPrew1

Thank you Tripl7. What I can't figure out is what sensors / inputs the KLR needs to operate? Any idea?

Still seems odd the boost gauge doesn't operate in the non starting situation.

divil

If you're getting at the idea that it's not working because some input is missing, I don't think you're on the right track. The KLR should always operate the boost gauge with the key on. Also, it has a limp mode where if it doesn't get the signals it needs, it still outputs an ignition signal (presumably retarded to the max) and it also opens the wastegate fully to prevent boost. The only explanation for having to bypass it is that it's dead (although hopefully only the chip as suggested). (EDIT: I suppose it's also possible that it's not getting power, but that's easy to check)

That said, if you do a search for 'KLR pinout' here or on google you should get a picture of the connector with all the inputs and outputs labelled.

Paulyy

if you have to jump the KLR to start. Then yes the Chip or the unit itself. I had my chip go once (i grounded the igniton cable to the coil and blew the chip)

Dan Martinic

Check out page 29 of this official DME / KLR Test Plan: <a href="http://www.arnnworx.com/download/DME_KLR_Test_Plan.pdf">http://www.arnnworx.com/download/DME_KLR_Test_Plan.pdf</a> &amp; test the input at KLR pin 24. Not sure what it is; it's called "Tri-signal", but looks like it needs that to run<br /><br />You'll need an oscilloscope though. EDIT: just remembered you can also use a 12v led (if it blinks while cranking, at least you see some signal)

MPrew1

Thanks John (I also own an E46 M3!), I'm sorry this will be my last post today as it's past midnight, but the question about inputs was due to a trial and error where I found if I disconnected one of either speed or reference sensors (sorry, tired and need to check which one) it would not start even in 'KLR jumped mode'. Are you confirming neither of these effect the KLR's operation? (Checked it's got power, but thank you, never assume!)

divil

Great car

Yes those sensors go only to the DME, so without both of those you get no ignition signal at all.

MPrew1

Thanks Guys, I got the car to Buchanan Automotive in Balgolwa, near Sydney. Brice and Sean were fantastic and helped me confirm the KLR by plugging in their own test item. They did similar work to identify issues with Sunroof (Solenoid) & Heater Controls (Control Dash Unit)

Anybody have a working KLR for sale? Need to post to Sydney Australia.

Cheers again,

Mark.

964-C2

How do you check if the KLR is getting power? Which pin?

shortyboy

Check power with multimeter at pin out. Here's both dme and klr.

964-C2

Edit...

964-C2

Sorry, I do not understand what you mean by "pin out".