ewainwright

Good Afternoon Team,

I have finally dialed in my Baby to a point where it’s time to take her to a dyno. I have questions regarding my upcoming session. I am using a garage in Oakland Park, FL called Two Friends (4032 NE 5th Terrance, Oakland Park FL 33334 telephone 954 565-4040). Brett charges $100 per hour or 150 per hour if he going to help. I was born slow and have been losing ground ever since. As a direct result I need all the help that I can get. This run is more of a determination of what one can expect from Lindsey’s turbocharger (a true bolt on) with stock heads, stock exhaust and a weak stock but shinned waste gate holding 18 psi of boost (puff puff yes I am a card carrying poster boy child boostaholic member. Move Richard Pryor.)

I have a couple of questions. Through trial and error I’ve identified a group of cells that are causing a stall condition (due to a rich condition) with the Link MAP system while coming off the line with low RPM. The issue is when the clutch is fully engaged and throttle is applied these same cells will also caused a monetarily lean condition (off boost below and around 2K RPM depending on load). When I richen them to 13 –13.9 for acceleration they become overly rich when coming off the line that can cause a stall. There doesn’t seem to be any compromise here. I readily admit it’s my grandma style of engaging the clutch coming off the line. However, I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic during my morning commute (I 95 Fort Lauderdale to Miami) and don't want to stress the clutch. Is this lean condition dangerous for the long-term health of my head gasket or motor?

What is the procedure for dyno runs? Full power runs in 1st , 2nd, 3 rd, and 4th? Or get to 4th and then floor it? Any insight would be greatly appreciated, as this is my “virgin run.” Thanks for advance for your insight and suggestions

fast951

Go smoothly through the gears till you get to 4th. Try to get you RPM around 2300, then start squeezing the pedal at the same time get the dyno operator to start the load. When you hit 2500-2600 you should be full throttle (pedal to the metal) and hold it till you hit 6200 or so.

WARNING: If at any point during your run you notice a lean mixture, abort the run. You might want to do couple of runs up to 4500 then 5500 to make sure your mixture is fine..

ewainwright

Thank-you Fast951

'86 944 turbo

post the resutls. I would love to see them.

Tom M'Guinn

Ewain,

When are you going? I'll be back in Miami with 951 as of Monday, and have been wanting to get back to a dyno. Want company? --Tom

Ski

If those particular cells are causing a stall and since you aren't on BOOST, I would lean them back out. You may want to get in touch with Travis before you go and see if he can help you get that dailed out. He did go to work for LINK didn't he? Just curious, when this "lean" condition happens, are you part throttle or full throttle? If partial, I wouldn't worry about it since you aren't under boost and still in closed loop operation.

ewainwright

Thanks for your relpy...

Tom - I am planning on doing the actual run there Saturday, January 10. I talked to Brett briefly regarding his equipment. I will go down to his garage tomorrow Saturday. January 3 to look around and get a "feel" for Brett as I never interacted with him before.

Brett was recommmendated by an area RX-7 tuner. It would be great to see you there as I would value your opinion, thoughts, and suggestions. My Baby's engine bay isn't very pretty as she is a work in progress.

Bret - my last conversation with Travis was a disappointment for me. Travis only talked about distancing himself from Guru Racing. However, I do have his number in my notes and will call him again. There nothing to use. Frankly, I've had more valuable help from Fast951 and I don't have his product yet.

Right now I am getting the best results (if you want to call it that) with the 1.8 resistor in place. At part throttle as I am getting off the clutch the group A/F mixture is good. With the clutch full engaged their A/F goes lean (approimately two seconds). This occurs under 2k RPM. Boost doesn't come on until around 3.5K. I plan on doing more datalogging this weekend to see if I can achieve a happier medium between these cells.

Thanks ed

Tom M'Guinn

Ed,

I am in California until Sunday night (Jan 4), then back in Miami. On January 10 I should be free to join you though. I tried to send you my phone number by private message, but the system says your private message box is full. If you want company, let me know how to get a hold of you or send me a message telling me when and where to show up. If there is time for me to get my car on the dyno, I would be happy to share costs with you. But I am happy to come either way. Is it a dynojet? --Tom

fast951

Ed, Since you are stopping by the dyno shop prior to the dyno session, have the shop owner take a look at your car (mainly the rear) so he figures out where to hook the straps... It's best to figure this prior to your dyno session and much cheaper As dyno time is $100/hr.

One more hints for you while at the dyno.
* When done with the pull or just aborting one, keep the car in gear till your rpm drops slowly. Do not hit the brake to slow it down. When you get around 2000rpm you can put it in Neutral.
* Make sure you let the car idle for couple of minutes before shutting it down.
* You will need a good fan blowing at your intercooler opening and another fan at your radiator.
* A good idea to have someone spray the intercooler with water between runs.
* Monitor your gauges, make sure water temp doesn't get out of hand, and make sure oil pressure is good (above 4 bar) during load.
* Before going to the dyno, check all your hoses (Air & Water). If your spark plugs are old, replace them. Make sure your air filter is clean. Dyno time should be spent tuning not fixing the car.
* Have someone that knows your system with you. You will have plenty to deal with (sensory overload), so having a second person double checking the changes you make and evaluating the results will be best. If you end up using a wideband and data logging, make small changes and recheck. Hopefully by the time you get to the dyno, you have the mixture very close to where you want it, and you just fine tune it at the dyno...

* If you haven't been to a dyno session, watch few sessions and monitor what others are doing. This will make you familiar with the environment...
* Have fun

ewainwright

Tom - you've got mail.

Fast951 - I don't know how to thank-you enough. Moreover, this proves my point. There is no question in my mind that you will bury your competition

fast951

Ed, You are welcome. Competition is good, it keeps us in shape
Email me directly if you need further info....

ewainwright

Morning,

I went to Bret's garage (Two Friends) yesterday to check it out and to make an appointment. Its for Saturday, January 10 @10AM. Bret is nice enough. He builds cars from the ground up and has several projects going. His three minute tour yielded an engine building shop, machine shop, and several racing cages frames, a toyota turbocharged car project, and two NASCAR types cars. Unlike shops that I prefer to bring my car to, his shop was cluttered and his engine building room wasn't as clean as I've seem. However, he not working on my car

Bret has a Dyno Jet that, according to him, is capable of measuring 1,400 hp. His cooling fan is almost twice as wide as my car and, according to him, is capable of moving 14.000 cubic foot of air per minute (approximatemly 70 MPH ?). He has two computer programs for his dyno of which only one works (the older version) and is only able to print the results. He is not computer savvy. I also had him check where he could tie down Baby. In addition he charges 75 dollars for two pulls (another twenty-five for an hour seems like the better deal). He races on the weekends and wants to be out of there by 12 noon to go racing.

The easiest way there is I95 north (from Miami) to Fort Lauderdale, east on Oakland Park Avenue, take a right on Andrews Avenue (headed south), a left on Prospect (east), right on NE 5th Avenue (south), left on NE 42nd Street, and finally right on NE 5th Terrace. I look forward to meeting anyone that wants to show up. Again thanks everyone for your help and I will post my results. ed

ewainwright

A sword should cut in both directions

From: Danno <danno@thevine.net>
To: “Ed Wainwright” <ewainwright@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: MAP chips
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 15:54:38 -0800

Ed,

Sorry about the support issues you’ve been having with your kit. You
were the last one who from GURU through Castiac as the front-end.
Since they made 60% of the profit on the transaction for just
processing your card, they should be providing you with full support.
However, there’s a lot of technical details that they don’t know that
is critical to your upcoming dyno test.

I’m going to work up a step-by-step dyno-tuning guide for the MAP
kits to make this as easy as possible for people. Wayne Greham’s
tuning-guide on his website is also a great help. The general
procedure is this:

1. print up blank ZoneWorksheet forms. Best to use one per run, so
you can see correlate the values you have in the 3D map’s cells to
the actual air-fuel ratio on the dyno-chart. Note that the zone# in
orange correspond to the zones printed out by the SerialLink
datalogger, while the other numbers match what the hand-held
tuning-module shows.
http://www.gururacing.net/Manuals/AF...eet-blank2.gif
http://www.gururacing.net/Manuals/AF...eet-blank3.gif

2. The dyno-operator should run the car. Should start out easy in
1,2,3rd gears and shift around 2700rpm. By 4th gear, floor the car at
around 2000rpm to redline.

3. You should sit in the passenger seat next to the operator and
monitor the tuning-module. Set it to the “ZN AFM” screen and see the
actual air-flow zone that is being used through the run. Idle should
be around 205, then as dyno-guy starts the 4th gear, full-throttle
run, it should go through 520,620,725,830,835,940,945, etc. The
sample blue lines I’ve drawn on the blank worksheet is just a guide,
you need to draw the actual path your car really takes on the dyno as
every configuration is different.

4. match up dyno-chart with ZoneWorksheet and make adjustments.
Account for a 250rpm lag with the dyno’s O2-sensor. Also note that
the zone-adjustments are for the center of the data-cell. That is, if
you adjust zone# 940, that’s actually 15-20psi @ 4250rpm. So on the
dyno-chart, look at the air-fuel ratio at 4500rpm, then make
adjustments in zone#940. Initially, you’ll make +/- 5% adjustments,
then after a dyno-run or two with adjustments, you’ll be down to
really fine +/- 1% adjustments.

5. It’s also best to blend in the adjustments with the next lower
load zone (9-15psi). These are the zone#800-875 row. Split the
difference with the 900-zones above it. So if you have +6% in zone
940, add +3% in zone 840. This allows for a smoother transition from
partial-throttle to full-throttle and back and forth.

6. Ideal air-fuel ratio @18psi looks like Jim Huizenga’s TurboS
dyno-chart on our GURU Forums->DynoCharts section. From 2500-3500rpm,
it’s best to have around 13.0-13.5:1 air-fuel ratio to generate hot
exhaust gases to spool up the turbo quickly and reduce lag. There’s
not enough air-flowing to cause any detonation issues and John
Kaufmann (Jake951) actually has dyno-charts comparing 13.0:1 vs
12.0:1 air-fuel ratios in this RPM-range and got 5hp better at 13.0:1

Then from 4000rpm onwards, the air-fuel ratio should get richer and
richer. It should be between 12.0-12.5:1 betwen 4000-5000rpm then
11.75-12.25:1 from then on. Some people like a mixture that heads
towards rich at 11.0:1 by redline just ot be safe.

Also on your car at 18psi, you should be using teh FQS positions #4-7
to get a 2-degree ignition retard for safety. Due to the inefficient
2-valve head, more ignition advance doesn’t make that much of a
difference in power, but it does cause premature detonation/knocking.
At 18psi, provided you have enough fuel, you’re looking at about
300rwhp. Jamie Hileman in Indiannapolis just dyno-tuned his TurboS
with MAP-2 kit last month for about 300rwhp. I’ll see if I can’t get
a copy of his dyno-chart and ZoneWorksheet for you. Although he was
beta-testing the new v9b MAP-specific chip, so those values won’t
match yours exactly. And he was dropping 1-2psi of boost near
redline, and that needed some -10% reductions in fuel there.

I’ll send a more detailed dyno-tuning document to you in Acrobat
(PDF) format once I’ve finished it and have it reviewed by some of
our more experienced users.

Take care- danno

==================
GURU Racing
http://www.gururacing.net

Dan Nguyenphuc
<danno@thevine.net>
(805) 685-7774

Jake951

Actually I've seen as much as 20 ft-lb of torque increase in the 3000-3500 rpm range, where boost is still building, by leaning out from 11.5 or 12:1 to an A/F ratio of 13:1. That's about a 10% increase in torque in that range. Then from the point of peak boost and upward in rpm, my dyno results confirm that the horsepower/torque are maximized around 12:1 or 12.5:1. This is at peak boost levels of 15-16 psi.

Matt Sheppard

Are all you that are tuning still having off idle stumble of any sort?