Jllewan

I just replaced my oil pan gasket and am starting to see some slow leaking at each end (round portion) any suggestions? I really don't want to redo it......worst job ever!

1988 951

Thanks!

audisport

Did you put any sealant on it at the corners or leave it dry?

Jllewan

I put sealant on the corners but may have not put enough. Plus a lot of 1 handed adjusting/holding which may have caused shifting? just guessing.

Auto_Werks 3.6

I installed my pan gasket dry, no adhesive in the corners. I studded the majority of the block with inexpensive extra long metric studs. Pulled the studs out one by one as I swapped them for bolts during the install. Seems to have sealed well.

mj951

Excellent idea!

GPA951s

The round end sits in sort of a channel. Sure your seal hasn't wore a groove in the crank?

odonnell

Is there any value in just using studs as the long term hardware? It would be easier to align and you would be guaranteed to have the gasket constrained around the whole perimeter during assembly. Plus, torquing is somewhat more consistent from nut to nut compared to using bolts.

Jllewan

I'm a little confused? What do you mean you replaced the studs with bolts? Mine was bolts 18 short and 4 long.

87944turbo

I think there is so long as they are installed correctly. I have switched to studs from bolts in a number of applications with good results. Typically use ones that use an allen wrench for installation/removal. I Have always used good quality studs and checked the depth to ensure they are fully seated so that your not getting a false torque reading on the nut (i.e. you're not turning the nut and stud at the same time and using that reading). You have to take some care when installing whatever the related part is so that you don't damage the threads of the studs, but other than that it's pretty hard to go wrong.

Auto_Werks 3.6

I installed studs in the block. They were not porsche parts, just generic studs. I didn't use 18 of them, but a handful, maybe 10. Put the gasket onto the studs, and it will hang in place on the engine. Then slip the pan up on to the studs. Then start putting bolts in. When you come to a stud, remove it, and replace the correct bolt. The studs are only to keep the gasket aligned and in place during installation.

Jllewan

Great Idea !

odonnell

I was thinking, also opens up the option to use loctite on the studs, and double-nut. Lock nuts would affect torque value obviously. That way there's less chance of them loosening up over time.

87944turbo

Good call, I used blue loctite in most cases. Installed the studs that way for my intake manifold instead of using bolts years ago. Double nut would be a nice insurance policy.

Jllewan

Update.....
Loosened and re-torqued per spec (diagram) and still leaks on front and rear. Only see the oil at the bottom of the radius ends (oil pump and clutch) Is there something above that could be leaking? Also is there a good way to detect with some kind of a light (black) ? My rear seal was replaced by a reputable Porsche mechanic and I replaced the front one on the main crank so I don't believe they the culprit. Any suggestions/opinions?

GPA951s

Take a look at Lindsey's website and look for the replacement sleeve for the crank. You state you have new gaskets and double checked them and they are still leaking. You have eliminated 2 of the three reasons these engines leak in the front and rear. You have a grove worn in the crank. It happens, good luck!