shaheed

ok so my car hasn't started since may, it has had quite a few mods added since then:
-new head and gasket
-55lb injectors from guru racing
-k27/8 turbo
-custom chips from guru for injectors/turbo/APE MAF
-SFR headers
-SFR fuel lines
-cleanup of the idle stabilizer rat's nest to the new design
-new vacum hoses

tried to crank it up today and everything turns over easily but no start. both reference sensors and DME relay were changed earlier this year, so they should be ok. i'm pretty sure fuel is making it to the fuel rail because if i disconnect it there is fuel in there. is there anyway to check the injectors themselves? any ideas on what to do next?

blitz951

Shaheed,

You may have a bad DME but I would check the connection between the reference sensors. I bought a DME because I had changed everything and I still had the same problem, episodic no start. I wasted alot of time and money so make sure you try to start the car and if it turns over but your tach. has no signal then have someone else start your car while you wiggle the reference sensor connectors/push them together. I will bet the car will start. I still have this problem because I have not had the time to replace the connectors so when the car turns over and there is no signal to the tach I just push the connectors together, go back in the car and the car starts. There are others who have had this problem.

87951

I second the reference sensor problem -been there/done that. Even though you said the sensors were new, there can still be a problem with the wiring plug where they plug into the harness.

shaheed

thanks for the suggestion guys, i had someone crank the car while i fooled around with the sensor harnesses but no luck. i also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail, it goes up to about 36psi when cranking.

Mike B

I think your fuel pressure should be at 43.5 at idle with the vacuum hose removed. It should still run at 36 psi though.

Try putting in the stock DME chip and seeing if it will start.

MySwiss

Shaheed. when you replaced your position sensor, did you check the gap between the tip of the sensor and the pin on the flywheel. If your gap is to big, your sensor won't get a reading, and your car wont start.

Is your ignition pluged on properly,and in goos condition(cap and rotor)

Good luck

blitz951

Shaheed,

Myswiss has a point about the gap. Make sure it is right.
Is your problem constant or is is episodic?

shaheed

hi guys,
i checked the car this afternoon and it has spark, i don't believe it would have fuel pressure and spark if the reference sensors were bad, right?

also i should clarify, i replaced the reference sensors before tearing apart the engine so they were gapped and running properly.

mike b, i tried using my old autothority MAF chips and it still didn't start.

this car sucks

fast951

If you have fuel AND sparks then timing might be off. Check your distributor cap, and make sure the plug wires are pluged in where they should be.

shaheed

john, if 1 is the cylinder closest to the firewall , on the distributor i have:

1 3
C
2 4

fast951

Shaheed Cyl #1 is the one to the front of the engine. #4 is closest to the firewall.

shaheed

ok in that case the plugs are hooked up as:

4 2
C
3 1

is that backwards?

shaheed

can someone verify this is how the plugs should be hooked up to the distributor cap? thanks!

Joe Jackson

With the mark on the cam gear lined up with the notch in the housing, the rotor should be pointing at wherever you have the #1 spark plug hooked up. Pull the cap off real quick and check. I can't remember off the top of my head where #1 goes.

shaheed

thanks joe, will do.