Gary Gaukler

There is a slight grinding / crunching noise when I shift into first or reverse gear from idle. It appears to be worse when the car is cold, and getting better when the car warms up.

The general feeling is that I can't seem to push the clutch in far enough for it to completely disengage. I am already pushing it to the floorboard, but the noise is still there.

Other than that, the clutch feels fine. The clutch does not slip.

What would cause this? Master / slave cylinder? Syncros?

Thanks,

Gary.

Rich Sandor

I think I have a similar problem , only with 2nd gear, and only near freezing temps.

My clutch is new.

I think it's either worn 2nd gear syncros, a chipped gear, or wrong tranny fluid.

Mike S

Two things to look at. 1)Bleed the slave cylinder to make sure that there aren't any air bubbles 2)Change the tranny fluid. Mobil 1 synthetic and Red Line are popular. Both of those should cost you less than $40 to do yourself. I would bet that you can eliminate or drastically reduce your problems with those two items. If that fails then yes I'll say synchro's.....but usually they just grind warm or cold.

Gary Gaukler

Re: tranny fluid. I have records that show that the previous owner had the fluid changed to Swepco about a year ago. Would it still make sense to change the fluid? Does it contaminate?

Worst case, if it is the syncros, what price range am I looking at here? Does it make sense to replace the syncros, or would a new (used, rebuilt, ...) transaxle be the better choice?

Thanks,

Gary.

Mike S

Hmm...swepco is usually the fluid of choice for some Porsche guys. Personally I had slightly better engagement with Mobil 1 synthetic...but that could be just my memory. I wouldn't change from the swepco since it was recently changed by the PO.

I'm no expert on rebuilds, but they aren't cheap. I seem to see folks paying from $1500-$1800 to have them rebuilt. Someone recently changed the synchros themselves I beleive. Check the archives.

Luis de Prat

Had same problem in S2 but only when making quick shifts to 2nd gear since I bought the car @118K. Clutch died @138K, was replaced, problem gone.

I realize your symptoms only occur in 1st and reverse, but thought I'd throw in my experience as a data point.

TurboTommy

I also have this problem when shifting quickly into second. I'm thinking the synchros are worn. Can't be the clutch since it's fairly new. However, can the clutch be adjusted to the point that there is "more disengaging" so to speak, when the pedal is all the way to the boards? Does anybody know this?

PorscheDoc

My truck has done the same thing for 2 years when shifting fast into 2nd. Pretty sure it is the syncro. I switched to amsoil in the tranny and it helped alot, but still does it when it is cold out.

Karl

Peckster

It's either the clutch hydraulics or syncros, probably the latter. Your fluid is fine.

MHT

the original clutch disk in the 951 had a series of very small springs in the hub of the disk, these springs would break and fall out and get jammed up in the pressure plate. When this happens it can be difficult to put the car into first or reverse while it's not moving. If there is a problem with the hydraulic system, the pedal should feel different, there should be more free-play at the top. If the pedal feels as it always has, then your problem is not likely to be in the hydraulic system. I have seen cases where for one reason or another, the clutch disk was not free to move on the driveshaft, as a result the disk would drag on either the flywheel or the pressure plate surface and cause the same symptoms as you describe. Good luck Mark

Gary Gaukler

Thanks; when you say 'clutch hydraulics', do you mean air in the lines, or a defective slave cylinder?

Best,

Gary.

User 41221

Air in the lines, altho my vote would be syncros, sorry... If your clutch master or slave is defective, most likely, you will find your clutch pedal on the floorboards, and it won't come back up by itself.

Regards,

Peckster

I guess I meant both, but I doubt there could be air in your line unless your fluid got really low or a cylinder is defective.

Probably the master, I had that problem with my S. If that's it, not a bad idea to replace both slave and master while you're in there. Not sure how much work is involved with the second though.

Problem is, I don't know how to diagnose without a doubt that that's your problem. That's why I prefer to have things like this done by a mechanic I trust. For his diagnosis and his warranty.