Zirconocene

Hi there all-

First time posting and apologies, first off, if this has been covered; I couldn't find relevant information across a couple of hours of searching.

I have to fix the rear main seal on my '91 S2 and need some advice. From reading here, Clark's Garage, and the Pelican forums, there's a ton of work to do. I feel reasonably confident I can do it, even though I've never done it before. What it takes is time, and that's where my question is.

From this post: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...84-engine.html I have a similar transverse engine support that I intend to use while I remove all the bits under the car. However, there is a video on YouTube, by a German guy working on his own S2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlR2LUjSy4k), where he indicates that the support areas (the rain gutter bits at the sides of the open engine bay) for these kinds of transverse bars are not really very strong, so he comes up with a solution that supports the engine bar on the ground. I have my car on a 4 post lift so that's not an easy option for me, plus I already bought the dang tool.

My question is, given how slowly I anticipate I will work and how long it will take me to do this job, what do you think is the longest I can support the engine this way without damage to the car? I won't be removing or touching the engine mounts, so they will still support the engine, somewhat, I just don't want to mess up other parts of the car while I go about the other business.

Finally, related to this, I only see a single support ring on my engine, near the front; is that normal for the 3L? This is something else that I can't find solid information about.

Any help or insight would be appreciated.

edfishjr

1. Don't set the support on the rain gutters. Use the broader area of structure just inboard of the gutters.
2. Fit wood pieces down first to spread the load and prevent metal to metal contact.

Once you've done 1 & 2 the question of time shouldn't come up. If the load is taken within the elastic capability of the structure you're good for basically forever. Creep is not going to be an issue. Let me put it this way: if you think it will only hold for a period of time less than the remaining life of the sun, then it's not strong enough.

On my '91 S2 I rigged up a 4 by 4 to which I attached a 2 by 4 to to make a 4 by 6, just to be sure it was strong and stiff enough. I added wooden feet that fit the spaces available on either side. Then I put a chain over the top of it which hooked to the engine 2 places sort of diagonally. I think I used that front ring and some stud or bolt screwed in on the right side down below the head. Maybe it was an exhaust stud, i can't remember. I think I jacked the engine up a bit, set the chain links, then lowered the weight onto the chain.

Good luck.

Zirconocene

Thank you, that makes sense. The clock is ticking with spring coming up and I'd like to get my new baby on the road. This RMS things is just one of the things I need to take care of, but a major one stopping me from passing inspection.

Cheers

Gage

If you are not removing the crossmember and engine mounts, an engine support is not necessary and may actually be a hindrance to removing bell housing and sensor. You should be planning for a clutch and linkage service as well. I assume you are aware the transmission is removed to accomplish this work.

Zirconocene

Hi Gage, thanks for the heads up.

From my reading on Clark's and Pelican, there are a large number of things that it seems like I should take care of while I have everything disassembled. The ones that I have off the top of my head are the pilot bearing and inspection of the clutch release arm, but I made a list that I'm working off of from the Russian doll series of how-tos on Pelican. For the clutch release arm, I don't know what I'll do if there's an issue, as I can't find replacement parts for less than the cost of a kidney, so I hope everything's OK with that part in particular. Since I don't know the full history of the car, I figured I'd replace the fuel filter while I can get at it easily, a Fumoto valve while all the oil is out, and then also hope that the oil leak from the RMS has not ruined the clutch, which was supposed to have been replaced prior to my purchase. It's a good bit, but I guess it's still not as bad as the Turbo guys have it for this kind of work and I feel pretty good with all the information that's here and other places on the web.

Dan Martinic

Fun fact: not sure about the 3 litre, but the turbo 2.5 motor disconnected from the torque tube sits perfectly on its own two mounts. They must be balanced very centrally. No upper support needed (unless, of course, you are removing the mounts / crossmember).

If your clutch was replaced prior to your purchase, you should see a new pressure plate with new throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch release fork (arm) bearings and pin, and of course the actual clutch disc. All of this should be on the receipt and should be fairly obvious when you disassemble the bellhousing.

If you don't have evidence of replacement, plan to purchase some more new parts. The release fork (arm) doesn't usually need replacing; you can do just the bearings and pin. Its tips might be worn: in that case, there are a couple of people that can "rebuild" the arm with new tips and install the very cool upgraded bearings. See this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...utch-fork.html

I had Markus do mine, and I'm happy with it.

I did my own clutch last winter.. lying on my back under a tarp garage. Took a long time, mostly waiting for parts and such. It's very doable and congrats on having the guts to do it yourself. Problems you run into (frozen reference sensors & clutch fork pin) can be easily solved with a quick search or ask here

Gage

And, the most common failure i'm seeing lately is the throw out bearing guide sleeve. If yours isn't obviously new... make it so.

Dan Martinic

Oh yeah forgot that little part! It should be shiny brass looking if new in there. I also changed all the flywheel bolts... and clutch slave cylinder... and... well, probably a lot more lol

Don't forget to pre-order all the exhaust gaskets! What a bummer waiting two weeks for an O-ring

Zirconocene

You guys are awesome, thank you.

I remember something about needle bearings having to be replaced while I'm in there, so it's good to have some confirmation. Looking at prices, the parts themselves don't look to be terrible so I agree, I'll just get as much new in there as I can while everything is taken apart. I want this car to last me for as long as I am able to drive it and there's a comfort in knowing that there are new parts in those critical areas.

Thanks again, y'all.

Dan Martinic

Well... if you already have a new pressure plate, no sense getting another. Same for throwout bearing.. and you can easily just measure the disc with a caliper to see if that's brand new too (the specs are available just search for the workshop manual).

You will need the alignment tool to put it all back though (the little plastic ribbed "shaft" tool).

And a little tube of that better grease (I forget the exact name of it; also in the WS manual)