Porsche 83NA

By any chance, would you happen to know if the fuel damper can be the culprit to a no start? Or the cap n rotor, im having a fuel problem i think, i replaced fuel pump for a universal one, replaced fuel filter, changed one of the reference sensors, installed all new fuses! I cleaned intake, added a new air filter, new ignition coil, newly like battery with 750CCA , cleaned my DME , checked for gas on fuel rail by loosening fuel rail schrader valve,, it did not squirt out however gas did come out, im pulling my hair til i go bald at this point! Car did come with a factory alarm which i bypassed, car just cranks and cranks and cranks, i sprayed starting fluid , but it stays on 6-7 seconds before it turns off Any idea what issue this is?

Spring44

What is the history of the car? Was it stored before you got it? Did you drain the tank and remove the fuel strainer from the tank sump and see what is in there? If the tank has residual varnish, rust and tar in the bottom, It will just plug your filter screen and the new pump and filter and reduce fuel flow and pressure. From your brief description it sounds like your fuel flow isn't up to par. What is your fuel pressure? Have you cleaned your injectors? Are you getting a firing signal at the injectors?

Porsche 83NA

YES INDEED ! i have replaced everything with either bosch parts or germany direct oem parts ! however! i am having the fuel pump fuse blow every time i crank the car over!(new bosch fuel pump so i doubt its the fuel pump) new everything from injectors to starters to dme relay to battery , ground straps, all new fuses everywhere , to new spark plugs to new cap n rotor! i jumpered the alarm box but its not active nor did it help to start the car nor diagnose the no start issue, so i just connected it back in
my #2 Fuel pump FUSE keeps blowing everytime i crank the car! what could be the issure at hand? since pump is a new bosch part

931guru

According to the attached wiring diagram pdf, fuse #2 activates not only the fuel puimp, but also the AAV (auxiliary air valve)... disconnect that valve and see if the fuse still blows.

Porsche 83NA

I discovered that the auxiliary air valve connector/plug was arching with eachother ! (the green/black cable) cut them off and spread them apart and taped them up ! HOWEVER! the car still WONT START? do i have to step on the accelerator pedal in order to prime the pump or something ? now that i have the auxiliary air valve disconnected? ( since from my understanding the air valve is for cold starts?) but then again my battery only shows 12v even with a portable jumper installed? could that be it or where should i proceed from here ? should i try to reverse the reference sensor plugs? since it doesnt indicate which is dg or bg as shown in clarks?
also battery reads 9.78 Volts without jumper installed

walfreyydo

Do you lack fuel or do you lack spark? If you have fuel, whats the fuel pressure?

You need to start there and then work backwards. After reading your post(s) it seems like you are just taking wild stabs in the dark, which is not the way to approach these issues.

Luckily there is a guide available to those with the patience to read and follow it closely.
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ts-01.htm

Porsche 83NA

SO AFTER replacing the whole fuel system, oil and filters and purchasing a new tech9 fuel pump/dme relay, new spark plugs , new injectors, new coil, new fuel pressure regulator, jumping the alarm system /bypassing the alarm system i have finally figured out what was the cause to the no start! i replaced damn near everything! from reference sensors to fuel pump to all fuses ! even new bolts! my car yet would not start until a fellow member showed me the wiring diagram to the fuel pump as my fuse #2 kept blowing after every first crank attempt! so i inspected the wiring and discovered that the auxiliary air valve is connected to the same fuel pump wiring so i checked the connection on the boot connectors! i pulled the sleeve down on chance that maybe the wires were just brittle! sure enough i find out that the wires were arching with one another! HENCE the fuel pump #2 blowing upon every crank attempt! spliced them out all together taped them off ! and voilà no more #2 fuel pump fuse blowing anymore! however ! the car still wouldnt start! so i tested the the reference sensors using a ohmmeter! they tested fine at 860 for boths! i bought them new so i was not about to buy another set ! so i then started thinking ! if the dme/fuel pump relay was not being stopped by the fuse since it being blown maybe the short passed onto the relay ! so i then purchased the f9tech solid state fuel pump prime relay! i then checked to see if i had TACH bounce since this one youtube video i saw some guy named phillip bailey i think ; showed that if the dme relay worked there will be tach bounce! so he showed that even if the dme relay is out you wont get tach bounce MEANING your car wont start because the fuel pump relay is faulty!!! hence the purchase of the tech 9 solid state relay!! i flipped out the reference sensors because car wouldnt start nor did i have tach bounce! ONCE i flipped the connections on the reference sensors the car HAD IMMEDIATE TACH BOunce and started right TF UP!!!! ooooohh RAAaAhhhh!!!! 🎲🎲🏁🏁🎬