Tabo

Another big question regarding estimating the value of my 87 944 for insurance purposes please advise and suggest. As before here is a list of items replaced, worked on and or fixed sense the purchase of the vehicle

I have an 87 944 N.A. Here is the list of the work and parts that I have replaced or had worked on in the past four months.

1) New spring type clutch and pressure plate
2) Replaced torque tube with used “ Old bearings making noise”
3) Blew trans replaced with Turbo Trans out of another 87
4) New Rebuilt wrack and power steering pump
5) New Catalytic converter and muffler stock replacement with O2 sensor
6) Replaced bearings in front
7) New set of Yoks
8) New set of struts in front “I do not remember the type but slightly better than stock “
9) New shocks in rear
10) Complete motor maintenance including new cap, rotor, plus wire set and crossfire plugs
11) Valve cover seal
12) Replaced Oil pressure sensor
13) This Tuesday I will have replaced the timing belts and the motor mounts
14) Replacing water pump with new factory OEM at the same time
15) Replacing outer power steering and alienator/AC belt as well
16) Also replacing the engine temp sensor reticently discovered as bad
17) I have had a full four wheel and thrust alignment on the car and it drives true

Recent decisions on repairs are as follows.

1) Steering Control arms and ball joints will be replaced with new and all bushings in front are going to be replaced with neoprene replacements.
2) Adding anti roll bar from a Turbo 944 in rear and replacing bushings with Neoprene replacements
3) Adding front strut tower brace new to stiffen up front end during breaking
4) Ordered a front and rear set of Zimmerman cross drilled rotors for front and a set for the rear will follow by spring
5) Replacing break lines with OEM steel breaded version of same.
6) Calipers are being removed and rebuilt this Monday and new low break dust pads are being added

Interior replacements to be complete by spring

1) Door seals new replacement
2) Outer window felt replacement
3) Inner window felt replacement
4) Upper windows felt replacement
5) Lower windows channel felt
6) Rear Hatch seal
7) Sun roof seal
8) Side carpet strip moldings
9) Door handle seals
10) Rear hatch lock Seal
11) Turn signal lenses in front replacing with new
12) Both Door glass being replaced because of scratches on old glass
13) Adding the original Porsche Decal on rear of car
14) Adding original Porsche rock guards to car “Complete set”
15) New hood crest and seal
16) Replacing All Carpet with New Domestic carpet kits complete with rear hatch set and new push tabs
17) Ordered factory original floor mats to match car
18) Changing to white face instrument dials on dash
19) Replacing the original steering wheel with a Porsche Racing wheel with new emblem
20) Re keying entire car Tuesday with factory original numbers and new factory original keys with Porsche crest and push button light


There is more that I will do but after I get past this spring like having rear windows faded and getting new rebuilt windshield wiper arms, having the door window motors cleaned and greased. Things like that

The car is in excelent condition now and will be perfict if i haver anything to say about it. the question is how would i estimate the value of the vehicle to an ensurance apraser? thanks for the time spent reading this poast.

johnmshaw

Tabo, your 87 944 sounds like it will be one sweet ride when you are done. However I don't know if the ins. co. will value it much above blue book value? mine didn't. Plus they may charge a little x-tra for the (wrack, Yoks, perfict, ensurance , poast.)
sorry couldn't help my self good luck

jim968

FWIW, I sold my '88 na about two years ago for $8500.00, with 110K miles on it.

Dark blue, paint & body about 95% perfect.

Light beige full leather, usual driver's seat wear, otherwise perfect.

New in the past 12 months before sale:

Tires & 4-wheel alignment
Brake pads & front rotors
Control arms
T-belt, water pump, all front seals
Most rattles & squeaks located & fixed
The original rack was still tight & dry
Clutch disc replaced @ 55k; original pressure plate

Everything worked perfectly except the sunroof (low on one side when up).

Had a good 12-disc changer.

Jim, and I still miss that car a little...

adrian jaye

HI Tabo,

ok firstly "forget" what you've done to your car.

1: IF your car's is in great condition (and you can proove it) and or as near as dammit as it came out of the factory. You will get the "book" price i.e. what the insurance company think the replacement value of the car is. NOT what you bought it for or what you "THINK" yo can sell it for. the book price. If the car is anything more than 3 years old, there will be a depreciation value in it. EVEN if you insure your car for $20,000 does not mean you will get it. If the insures have your car/year listed at $5000 they'll haggle at around $3000.

2) If you car is MODDED in any way from spec, it's lost value stright off.

You've done a lot of work on the car and your insurance would argue, that may ghhave been waht you needed tp do to keep it to near spec.

If you do an overhaul on the engine or fit a dam spoiler don't expect that to add to the book/insurance value.

I know it suck's, but that's exactly how insurese rate risks with ANY car.

it's purely replacement value..unless you have an agreed valuation with them which usually need's photo/inspectors proof every year. and dont even think about modding.

what you car is worth to othee's (when your selling) is a "TOTTALLY" different think , yes a nice concours or fully m,odded car will be worth more to a buyer than it ever will be to an insurance company.

hope this help's

yep, I've learned this one the hard way !

Adrian

Dave

For the most part, Adrian is correct, however there are things you can do about it. A "stated value" policy, means that you are insuring a car for the value YOU say it is worth. You will pay more for this policy, but if the worst happens, you get your number.
Other than that, your best bet is a letter from the PCA Valuation Committee (must be a member), they constantly monitor prices on older models, nationwide, for just this purpose. They only show values for low, average, and high, in terms of condition, it is up to you to prove where you car is on that scale. Because they monitor so many well known sources, and PCA is obviously an authority on the marque, it is difficult for an Ins. co. to argue with their data. When my car was totaled a year ago, this letter, along with a significant amount of my own market research, resulted in a settlement 25% above the numbers we started with (and this was a standard policy, data obtained after the accident).

craig001

I agree with Dave. If you are not a member of PCA then join (it's really worth the $42/year) and get the valuation. They valued my 944S2 Cab $4k over purchase price though. So beware of treating the valuation as the holy grail. Basically insurance companies don't care about a lot of what you've done. They consider it "the car" and normal replacement of parts to maintain usability. If you've got aftermarket accessories or stereo then tell them. It may get you added value. Another reason to join PCA is access to Leland-West Insurance Brokers and the group rate. They are inexpensive with few restrictions. Their valuation of my car was almost right at purchase price so they are realistic. Just know that what you value the car at is probably diferent than their value (no emotional attachment).

mfowler

I did some insurance co. work for about 2 yrs. ( damage appraising ). usually what we would do for an ACV ( actual cash value ) was run nada.com....for retail and then traderonline.com and find 3 like vehicles....( stock form only) and average the 4 values.....you might want to contact Grundy or another specialty insurance co. where you can list the vehicle for actual replacement costs...hope you have your receipts...