Clutch sticks when engine is hot
06-18-2002, 11:31 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clutch sticks when engine is hot
Hi,
there is problem with my clutch (I still haven' t bleed it.)
When the engine is hot AND/OR the RPM's are in the range of > 4000 rpm the clutch gets sticked for some tenths of a second before it returns from the bottom.
The clutch is locked properly, that means it does not slip.
Can that be caused by some air in the hydraulic hoses of the clutch or by old brake liquid ?
(The clutch has been replaced approx. 15.000 miles ago.Everything should be fine here.)
there is problem with my clutch (I still haven' t bleed it.)
When the engine is hot AND/OR the RPM's are in the range of > 4000 rpm the clutch gets sticked for some tenths of a second before it returns from the bottom.
The clutch is locked properly, that means it does not slip.
Can that be caused by some air in the hydraulic hoses of the clutch or by old brake liquid ?
(The clutch has been replaced approx. 15.000 miles ago.Everything should be fine here.)
06-18-2002, 06:21 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem with mine, only when cold. This was just after I bought it and the guy said to bleed it. After a while it went away. I recommend a bleeding.
Ethan
Ethan
06-19-2002, 01:02 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 1,446
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you mean the clutch itself, or the clutch pedal? If the clutch itself is sticking, that could mean a lubrication problem on the splines of the shaft and clutch disk. If it is only in the travel of the pedal, then you should try bleeding. It is best to have an assistant push the clutch in and you watch the rod from underneath the car. make sure the motion is smooth.....this will tell you if you have air in the system or not. I used to bleed mine by just opening up the screw and letting it flow.....but this is not the best way to do it.
06-20-2002, 08:37 AM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi,
it's not the clutch(?) but the pedal when it should come back from the buttom.
I already tried to bleed it that way :
But I didn't get a drop of liquid out of the slave cylinder.
Still don't know why, but I had to stop that time.
Maybe I need to push down the pedal some times when the valve is open ?
However I now have built an adapter to put some air from a spare tyre into the brake housing.
'Will see if that works better.
The Porsche Manual points out that the slave zylinder should be removed and the push rod shall be pushed back manually to get rid of any residual air.
Any experience with that procedure ?
it's not the clutch(?) but the pedal when it should come back from the buttom.
I already tried to bleed it that way :
But I didn't get a drop of liquid out of the slave cylinder.
Still don't know why, but I had to stop that time.
Maybe I need to push down the pedal some times when the valve is open ?
However I now have built an adapter to put some air from a spare tyre into the brake housing.
'Will see if that works better.
The Porsche Manual points out that the slave zylinder should be removed and the push rod shall be pushed back manually to get rid of any residual air.
Any experience with that procedure ?
06-20-2002, 01:29 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Asheville,NC (Don't move here!!!)
Posts: 1,744
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Don't go overboard on applying air pressre to the reservoir; when I used the Motive Power Pressure Bleeder, it only took about 10 psi (~2/3's of a bar) to get good flow at the slave cylinder bleed fitting. Your spare tire likely contains 2 bar or more.... dunno what the consequences of overpressurizatio might be, but they might be messy...
Since I was using a clear plastic drain tube on the bleed fitting, I could see the small air bubbles that came out. One about pinhead size, two even smaller. That's all it took to make a difference in the feel of the clutch pedal.
Jim, lunchtime!!! <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
Since I was using a clear plastic drain tube on the bleed fitting, I could see the small air bubbles that came out. One about pinhead size, two even smaller. That's all it took to make a difference in the feel of the clutch pedal.
Jim, lunchtime!!! <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
06-28-2002, 05:36 AM
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Germany
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, clutch bleeding is funny.
I spent 3 hours and learned some new things.
I used the method with a spare tyre (set to 0.5 Bar, as Porsche specifies)and a homebrew brake reservoir adapter.
Everything would have been easy if I would have stopped bleeding after approx. 40mL (= milli Liter, don't know how much that is in Gallons).
But Murphy visited me and I continued to bleed and after approx 50mL of the liquid went through I got some bubbles.
I had overseen that the brake fluid chamber for the clutch had a different level than the first chamber.
Ok, so I have filled up the reservoir and bleeded again and thought that was all, but then I "missed" the clutch pedal.It was pulled to the carpet and didn't want to come up where it has to be.
'Thought that is the case where the Porsche Manual proposes to remove the slave cylinder and push the rod back manually to bleed over the reservoir.
So I removed that damned slave clinder pushed it manually several times and screwed it back.
Now I had some clutch travel of 11mm instead of the specified 15-18mm. <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
Than I tried to bleed with the help of my wife the clutch manually,by opening the valve at pushing and clothing the valve at pulling the pedal back. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
(It could be noticed that several bubbles are generated(?) by applying that method.
No improvement.
Then I bleeded the system again with only 0.2 Bar of pressure.
This brought my travel to approx. 14 mm.
When my wife left the car she smashed the door to the furniture in my garage giving a nice dent in my freshly painted door.
Now the clutch is working smoothly (as before) but I still have to verify whether it delays at high temperatures.
It seems that bleeding is so difficult as the brake fluid always tries to "bind" air into it.It can be seen in the fluid which has come out through the bleeding valve.There are always lot of tiny bubbles which would take several minutes to rise to the top.
I think I still have to much play in the pedal (approx. 30mm), but I have NO idea what can be done to do a 100% bleeding.
(Maybe one or both cylinders are faulty ...)
I spent 3 hours and learned some new things.
I used the method with a spare tyre (set to 0.5 Bar, as Porsche specifies)and a homebrew brake reservoir adapter.
Everything would have been easy if I would have stopped bleeding after approx. 40mL (= milli Liter, don't know how much that is in Gallons).
But Murphy visited me and I continued to bleed and after approx 50mL of the liquid went through I got some bubbles.
I had overseen that the brake fluid chamber for the clutch had a different level than the first chamber.
Ok, so I have filled up the reservoir and bleeded again and thought that was all, but then I "missed" the clutch pedal.It was pulled to the carpet and didn't want to come up where it has to be.
'Thought that is the case where the Porsche Manual proposes to remove the slave cylinder and push the rod back manually to bleed over the reservoir.
So I removed that damned slave clinder pushed it manually several times and screwed it back.
Now I had some clutch travel of 11mm instead of the specified 15-18mm. <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
Than I tried to bleed with the help of my wife the clutch manually,by opening the valve at pushing and clothing the valve at pulling the pedal back. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
(It could be noticed that several bubbles are generated(?) by applying that method.
No improvement.
Then I bleeded the system again with only 0.2 Bar of pressure.
This brought my travel to approx. 14 mm.
When my wife left the car she smashed the door to the furniture in my garage giving a nice dent in my freshly painted door.
Now the clutch is working smoothly (as before) but I still have to verify whether it delays at high temperatures.
It seems that bleeding is so difficult as the brake fluid always tries to "bind" air into it.It can be seen in the fluid which has come out through the bleeding valve.There are always lot of tiny bubbles which would take several minutes to rise to the top.
I think I still have to much play in the pedal (approx. 30mm), but I have NO idea what can be done to do a 100% bleeding.
(Maybe one or both cylinders are faulty ...)
