S2 Supercharger Build Thread UPDATE 22 Feb 2012 - DYNO PLOTS
04-04-2013 | 07:11 PM
#76
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 4
From: Brisbane, Australia
04-07-2013 | 10:04 PM
#77
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 9
From: Northland, New Zealand
Progress update.
This weekend I started removing all of the bits that need to come off for the SC install.
Removed header panel, alternator and bracket, left side wheel well liner, batwing, AFM, airbox, alternator cooling duct, receiver dryer, ac pipes etc.
I also worked out where to install the oil cooler - it will go in the left hand side behind the fog light area. This will be a mirror image of the S2 oil cooler location on the right side. The two tone horns need to be swivelled out of the way so they sit further forward so they can clear the oil cooler and pipes.
I also installed the intercooler and air duct. Luckily the S2 has four of the little rubber intercooler mounting feet already provided, 3 are used to support the airbox and one supports the AFM intake pipe. Simple matter of reusing the AFM one for the intercooler support. Very handy that Porsche used the same part so you don't need to buy these. It is interesting that I needed to wind up the rear support feet and put spacers between them and the bracket/support. Without these the intercooler pipe will hit the headlight linkage bar. Not sure how the turbo gets this to work?
I also installed the Rotrex and bracket so I can now measure up all the pipework. Some dremelling was required so the bracket cleared the plastic belt covers. Very minor clash here. Here are some pics of where I am at:
Intercooler in:
Attachment 585923
Rotrex in:
Attachment 585924
This weekend I started removing all of the bits that need to come off for the SC install.
Removed header panel, alternator and bracket, left side wheel well liner, batwing, AFM, airbox, alternator cooling duct, receiver dryer, ac pipes etc.
I also worked out where to install the oil cooler - it will go in the left hand side behind the fog light area. This will be a mirror image of the S2 oil cooler location on the right side. The two tone horns need to be swivelled out of the way so they sit further forward so they can clear the oil cooler and pipes.
I also installed the intercooler and air duct. Luckily the S2 has four of the little rubber intercooler mounting feet already provided, 3 are used to support the airbox and one supports the AFM intake pipe. Simple matter of reusing the AFM one for the intercooler support. Very handy that Porsche used the same part so you don't need to buy these. It is interesting that I needed to wind up the rear support feet and put spacers between them and the bracket/support. Without these the intercooler pipe will hit the headlight linkage bar. Not sure how the turbo gets this to work?
I also installed the Rotrex and bracket so I can now measure up all the pipework. Some dremelling was required so the bracket cleared the plastic belt covers. Very minor clash here. Here are some pics of where I am at:
Intercooler in:
Attachment 585923
Rotrex in:
Attachment 585924
The unit is upside-down in the photo below:
Cheers,
Mike
Last edited by mikey_audiogeek; 04-07-2013 at 11:27 PM.
04-08-2013 | 05:38 PM
#79
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,547
Likes: 9
From: Northland, New Zealand
Not with this one - this is the water to air IC, so you don't need the <insert prejudicial adjective here> Subaru bonnet scoop.
Don't have one to measure yet but from the photos it looks like it isn't any taller than the AFM so should fit nicely there and allow enough room for Josh's MAF conversion. Coat of paint and a Porsche sticker and it's done! And look how nicely the pipes should line up - a straight connector from the outlet to the TB, and a 90 degree from the Rotrex to the inlet, job done (hopefully).
I'm currently bidding on one of these intercoolers with the associated Subaru pump and IC radiator - although I'll probably use the S2 A/C condenser as the radiator since it doesn't need adapting! Should get the lot for about NZ$100.
Or is there something I'm missing? Did you look at one of these?
Cheers,
Mike
Don't have one to measure yet but from the photos it looks like it isn't any taller than the AFM so should fit nicely there and allow enough room for Josh's MAF conversion. Coat of paint and a Porsche sticker and it's done! And look how nicely the pipes should line up - a straight connector from the outlet to the TB, and a 90 degree from the Rotrex to the inlet, job done (hopefully).
I'm currently bidding on one of these intercoolers with the associated Subaru pump and IC radiator - although I'll probably use the S2 A/C condenser as the radiator since it doesn't need adapting! Should get the lot for about NZ$100.
Or is there something I'm missing? Did you look at one of these?
Cheers,
Mike
05-30-2013 | 09:21 AM
#82
Track Day
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Great write up.
Did you only need to get the fuel in check because am collecting stuff to build a engine similar to yours. For the turbo engine we want to build we have a complete stand alone system produced here in Holland only this is very expensive.. After reading this (and not being very good at electrics) i was wondering if i could keep the standard DME and just get an external fuel regulator and make it work.
I have a MAF conversion kit that bolts on the S2 and i also use the same C30-94 Rotrex. Can you (or someone else) enlighten me. I have a friend who is good with electrics i will show him your thread also.
Tnx in advance,
Jan
Did you only need to get the fuel in check because am collecting stuff to build a engine similar to yours. For the turbo engine we want to build we have a complete stand alone system produced here in Holland only this is very expensive.. After reading this (and not being very good at electrics) i was wondering if i could keep the standard DME and just get an external fuel regulator and make it work.
I have a MAF conversion kit that bolts on the S2 and i also use the same C30-94 Rotrex. Can you (or someone else) enlighten me. I have a friend who is good with electrics i will show him your thread also.
Tnx in advance,
Jan
05-31-2013 | 08:39 AM
#83
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 4
From: Brisbane, Australia
The best way to regulate fuel is up the injector size and use an ostrich emulator with tuner pro to adjust the maps. You will also need to change the ignition timing to allow for the boost under forced induction. Hope that helps.
09-10-2013 | 12:10 PM
#84
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
Eric,
Any update on how the new setup is holding up?
Considering duplicating your build on an 2.5L DOHC 944 S, perhaps with a S2 intake and Rogue MAF conversion for a track only application.
Ive been advised that with the S2 there would be issues these issues with a high boost SC--
-- close tolerance pistons and as a result the 944 piston is liable to run too close with the additional combustion heat of the SC.
-- the 944S2 uses a mass damper on the front of the crank which cannot drive the torque requirement of the SC.
Let me know if your observations hold true to these advisories.
Cheers,
Michael
Any update on how the new setup is holding up?
Considering duplicating your build on an 2.5L DOHC 944 S, perhaps with a S2 intake and Rogue MAF conversion for a track only application.
Ive been advised that with the S2 there would be issues these issues with a high boost SC--
-- close tolerance pistons and as a result the 944 piston is liable to run too close with the additional combustion heat of the SC.
-- the 944S2 uses a mass damper on the front of the crank which cannot drive the torque requirement of the SC.
Let me know if your observations hold true to these advisories.
Cheers,
Michael
09-11-2013 | 10:11 AM
#85
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 4
From: Brisbane, Australia
No real problems, except I blew the head gasket which damaged a cylinder. You should replace the head gasket if it is old.
There is no evidence that pistons are scuffing the cylinder. Except for the damaged cylinder the others are perfect. The front damper pulley is not a problem.
Just make sure you limit boost to 7psi and run afr's at about 11 on wot.
Hope this helps.
There is no evidence that pistons are scuffing the cylinder. Except for the damaged cylinder the others are perfect. The front damper pulley is not a problem.
Just make sure you limit boost to 7psi and run afr's at about 11 on wot.
Hope this helps.
09-11-2013 | 04:36 PM
#86
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
Thanks, Eric.
Looking to replicate your build but on the 16V 2.5L. Don't know what additional issues I'll be setting myself up for there with the smaller displacement.
Plan to use the Rogue MAF conversion for the 944S when its released.
Ill set up a new thread once we kick it off in the next couple months.
Looking to replicate your build but on the 16V 2.5L. Don't know what additional issues I'll be setting myself up for there with the smaller displacement.
Plan to use the Rogue MAF conversion for the 944S when its released.
Ill set up a new thread once we kick it off in the next couple months.
09-13-2013 | 09:55 PM
#87
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 4
From: Brisbane, Australia
To reduce the (unlikely) occurrence of cylinder scuffing, you could ceramic coat the top of the pistons. In fact, I am about to do just that since my engine is being rebuilt anyway.
You will need turbo injectors to provide rough fuel. These are marginal on the s2 but sold be more than sufficient on the S. make sure you have a wbo2 from day 1 as it is impossible to tune safely without this. Be prepared for a lot of fine tuning of fuel mixtures.
I presume you will be using the ostrich and tuner pro? A knock counter is also useful. Start by conservatively retarding the timing by at least 4 degrees from stock at max rpm / boost until you are down to about 3 psi where the timing can remain stock. It is also best to run in open loop mode so you can keep the afr down at throttle tip in. Closed loop int too bad on the street, but is not so good on the track where there are a lot of big throttle changes.
You will need turbo injectors to provide rough fuel. These are marginal on the s2 but sold be more than sufficient on the S. make sure you have a wbo2 from day 1 as it is impossible to tune safely without this. Be prepared for a lot of fine tuning of fuel mixtures.
I presume you will be using the ostrich and tuner pro? A knock counter is also useful. Start by conservatively retarding the timing by at least 4 degrees from stock at max rpm / boost until you are down to about 3 psi where the timing can remain stock. It is also best to run in open loop mode so you can keep the afr down at throttle tip in. Closed loop int too bad on the street, but is not so good on the track where there are a lot of big throttle changes.
06-30-2014 | 03:12 PM
#88
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 758
Likes: 2
From: Michigan... Grand Rapids
Eric
I have my S2 supercharged and running well. I was able to design a bracket to keep the A/C in place and relocate a smaller nice GM alternator. The supercharger is in pretty much the same location as yours. Car runs well and I have fueling pretty dialed in, but haven't driven the car much because I don't have a knock counter on it.
I see your using a Redlion CUB400 counter connected to your diagnostic block. I can't find any info on that counter, where did you get that?
I have my S2 supercharged and running well. I was able to design a bracket to keep the A/C in place and relocate a smaller nice GM alternator. The supercharger is in pretty much the same location as yours. Car runs well and I have fueling pretty dialed in, but haven't driven the car much because I don't have a knock counter on it.
I see your using a Redlion CUB400 counter connected to your diagnostic block. I can't find any info on that counter, where did you get that?
Last edited by victor25; 07-02-2014 at 04:03 PM.
07-01-2014 | 06:33 AM
#90
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 4
From: Brisbane, Australia
Victor
I got the counter off eBay. It connects to the diagnostic plug. I have the pin out if you need it.
I still haven't fitted the maf as the intake plumbing is proving to be a little tricky to fit.
Have you tuned the ignition maps yet?
I got the counter off eBay. It connects to the diagnostic plug. I have the pin out if you need it.
I still haven't fitted the maf as the intake plumbing is proving to be a little tricky to fit.
Have you tuned the ignition maps yet?
Last edited by Eric_Oz_S2; 07-01-2014 at 07:43 AM.