Jacking 944S2 Cabriolet
01-30-2011, 11:25 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Jacking 944S2 Cabriolet
I though that Cab owners might find this jacking information helpful. As you know there is a factory diamond shaped indentation centered on the body panel just below each door. These locate the factory jacking points. The diamond indentation orients you to an oval shaped opening in the chassis - this is where the male end of the factory jack is inserted into (again 944 owners know this). I only use the factory jack to change a road-side flat tire, so a floor jack is necessary whenever I need to get underneath the car for a repair.
I purchased jacking plates; however, the male end on the plates was shorter than what is required to reach the solid jacking area inside the oval opening (imagine that
). Using the jacking plates as they are would result in undercarriage damage, so I sought to add extra lenght to the existing male end. Please keep in mind this a temporary fix until I find a permanent solution, such as welding on longer male ends (I needed to get cracking today).
I found a nut with the right diameter which gave me the additional height that I needed. I placed the nut on top of the jacking plate's male end and taped the two together with commercial grade electrician tape. I was able to lift the car without a problem. Now I needed a place to place my jack stands (working under the engine), so I could work safely.
The factory manual points out a place that doesn't inspire confidence, so I decided to use a small accessible section of the frame rail that is rock solid. There isn't a whole lot of area there but it's doable. Rather than explain it, I will let the photos do the talking. A few cautionary words: the passenger side front frame rail has tubing in close proximity to it, so make sure that the jack stand is properly placed, so you don't crush or pinch the tubes.
I purchased jacking plates; however, the male end on the plates was shorter than what is required to reach the solid jacking area inside the oval opening (imagine that
). Using the jacking plates as they are would result in undercarriage damage, so I sought to add extra lenght to the existing male end. Please keep in mind this a temporary fix until I find a permanent solution, such as welding on longer male ends (I needed to get cracking today).I found a nut with the right diameter which gave me the additional height that I needed. I placed the nut on top of the jacking plate's male end and taped the two together with commercial grade electrician tape. I was able to lift the car without a problem. Now I needed a place to place my jack stands (working under the engine), so I could work safely.
The factory manual points out a place that doesn't inspire confidence, so I decided to use a small accessible section of the frame rail that is rock solid. There isn't a whole lot of area there but it's doable. Rather than explain it, I will let the photos do the talking. A few cautionary words: the passenger side front frame rail has tubing in close proximity to it, so make sure that the jack stand is properly placed, so you don't crush or pinch the tubes.
02-06-2011, 07:31 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
02-08-2011, 11:07 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Georgia, RETIRED USAF GO BLUE
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YIkes !!! $70 a piece for a stand with a rubber pad. I have some old horse stall mats I can cut and make my own rubber pads for my heavy duty stands. Oh, and for God's sake weld those nuts good. I am surprised they did not slip on you just held together with electrician tape.
Cheers,
Larry
Cheers,
Larry
