late update, it took me awhile to sell my other car so I could have room to work on this one. I'm working on removing the engine to see what condition it's in right now. One thing I noticed is that the timing belt is disconnected already, that can't be good. I'm thinking used motor still sounds like the way to go but I'll see what condition this one is in first.

 

So far the only thing that has given me problems are the tie rod ends. I usually just hammer them out but that didn't work, I went and bought a u shaped tie rod puller and that isn't working either. I'm letting them soak in wd40 and I'm going to give it another shot in like an hour. Any tips on getting them out?

edit: Scratch that I got them off, left one needed some more "persuading" haha

 

Lots of Kroil oil, or PB Blaster, and a Pickle fork. The boots are replaceable.

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...ator-1759.html

 

well the engine has been out for a while now but I haven't been able to get a look at the rod bearings yet since I have too many cars and I can't free up my garage again.

I think the boots survived but I'll double check, one thing that did happen is I tried hammering them out which worked great on the passenger side one without damaging anything, but on the driver side I had to tried hammering harder which damaged the threads on the tie rod end. Should I try cutting new threads (I've had bad experiences in the past trying to do this) or should I just just buy a used tie rod end?

I also damaged the clutch slave cylinder boot in the process of removing the engine (first time dropping an engine and I did it by myself bear with me lol) It got stuck in the bellhousing as I was dropping the motor. I saw it stuck and managed to get it out before I caused too much damage but the boot is torn. I'm not sure if I damaged anything else other than the boot. What things should I check for damage?

 

Drop me an email at thom.ruben@gmail.com and I'll send you the Factory Diagrams with part numbers in PDF Format,,, Year was 1987 right??? US / CDN Version not greymarket ??

 

Ha I revive this old thread once again! Since my last post I have put in used motor I found. I got a new flywheel/clutch, new slave cylinder, and battery. I go to crank it and I get the sound of a running fuel pump instead :/

So then I try bypassing the solenoid and it cranks over okay. I read from some google searching that when cranking the voltage of the battery is supposed to drop to 10v. This is not happening when I try to crank the engine over.

First suspect is that I don't have a ground to the bellhousing/block. When I got the car the large ground from the battery was on the intake manifold. Is that the correct place to ground at? Other than that I would be thinking solenoid, alarm, wiring? Any ideas or helpful links are appreciated as always :]

 

some pictures of my starter wiring might be helpful .



So I have the blue wire going to the small terminal on the alternator and the red one going to the small terminal on the starter from this connector





Then the wire from the positive battery terminal to the large starter terminal which shares a spot with the wire that connects the starter to the alternator.



While I'm here I guess I should ask if this is a glasspack or some sort of resonator?

 

Today my no crank problem turned into a no spark problem after reseating the refrence/speed connectors. I have 12v coming from the coil but when I ground a spark plug against the intake manifold I don't get a spark. A few times I saw a spark when the key was turned to the on position but it only happened 2 times out of about 10 times that I checked for spark.

My dme relay shows some signs of heat damage but since my fuel pump is running I think that means I can rule out dme relay? I will try bypassing it tomorrow anyways when I can run to osh for some spade connectors.

 

Just got done trying to start the car with the alarm and dme relay bypassed as explained by clarks garage.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-23.htm
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-05.htm

I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I jump the dme relay but I still am not getting any spark. I'm going to test coil next and hopefully charge the battery since it's at 11.5v after all this and i need >200rpm to achieve spark.

*another post into my rennlist diary lol*

edit: with the ignition in the on position It turns out I get 12v from the green wire going into the coil to a ground like i'm supposed to but i don't get 12v across the green and black wires going into the coil. Would this indicate a faulty coil?

edit2: nevermind i misread clarks garage. I'm not supposed to get 12v across the 2 wires on the coil, I'm supposed to get 12v from each to the ground (which I do)

 

Drop in a nice 240hp 968 motor with variocam.

 

Ok here comes round 2....

When i dropped in that used motor I was unemployed and had just received an eviction notice. Needless to say i did it in a hurry and skipped a lot of things i should have addressed (like gapping reference sensors). I planned on driving the car to the new house but that didn't happen. Fortunately my new house was just around the block so i pushed it there :]

I had a no spark condition which i believe is from not gapping the reference sensors properly. I was trying to adjust the gap with the engine in the car and ended up dropping a fairly large bolt into the bellhousing. I could have fished it out with a magnet or something but i decided to remove the engine again and fix a few things i could have done with the engine out.

So i spent yesterday removing all accessories and removed the engine today and it's now waiting on the engine stand while some more parts that i ordered from ebay arrive.

This is what i've ordered so far.
-2 used reference sensors without broken terminals like mine :]
-oil pan gasket
-head gasket set
-front/rear seals
-pilot bearing
-timing rollers and belt
-balance rollers and belt
-engine mounts

I was thinking about a rebuilt dme since mine looked pretty corroded. I'm also not sure if i should change water pump, I'll have to take a look at it i guess. Anything else i should do while I'm putting all this together? Sorry for super old thread bumps lol

 

it would be very helpful for anyone attempting to help you to know what year your 944 is and what model also which year/model engine you have put in ?

Lots of important components are non compatable between early and late models like the ECU and Ignition amplifier etc.

Instead of wasting a lot of time and money replacing components needlessly it would be more productive to read up about the Bosch fuel injection system so that you can troubleshoot your system and identify the fault/s

The DME relay has 2x seperate relays inside the can which perform different functions. Each relay has a seperate coil which when energised , switches 12v+ to various components including the ECU, Fuel pump, injectors,

There is a constant 12v+ supply to the ignition switch and to terminal 30 on the DME relay even with the ignition switch off.

When you switch your ignition on 12v+ is fed to the coil and to terminal 86 of the primary relay which is earthed via terminal 85 The primary relay coil is energised which switches the 12v+ on terminal 30 to provide power to the second DME relay coil on terminal 87 and also the ECU .


When you crank the engine ,provided that the various sensors are supplying the ECU with the correct data then the ECU earths the second DME relay which then powers the fuel pump the injectors and the ECU via terminal 87b on the DME relay.

Provided that the ECU sees a minimum crank speed of approx 225 rpm from the CPS sensor the the ECU pulses the injectors and triggers the ignition amplifier which in turn switches the coil negative terminal to provide a spark.

That is a very simplistic explanation as there is little point in rewriting the bosch tecnical book here.

My guess is that either the ECU is not properly earthed (MPll & MPlll ) or the ECU is faulty or your ignition amplifier is faulty. The ignition amplifier is mounted on the inner wing near the headlight well on late cars and is contained with the ECU on early cars.

 

Thank you very much for the reply peanut, this is all new info to me.

From the vin number inside the windshield on the driver's side it says my chassis is a 1985. If i understand correctly, cars built before February 1985 are different than the cars after February 1985. The chassis and the engine are both 944 na but I am unsure if the years are the same since the person that sold it to me was unsure.

It was the only engine in a very far radius from me so i decided to buy it anyways hoping i could swap any incompatible parts from the old engine to the used one. The motor that was originally in the car is no longer, left it in my old house and i guess my landowner sold/trashed it so i will be buying any incompatible parts now.

How can i tell what month my car was built and where can i find the vin number on my engine block? I shall get to reading about the bosch fuel injection system in the meantime

 

An easy way to tell whether you have the early or late version is by the dash.

This is an early 1985, although very few look this good--



This is a late 85 dash --



There are several other differences (windshield size and trim, wheel offset, for example). You could either search here or Google to find a complete list of the differences.

If the car in the avatar is yours and if those wheels are original to the car I'm betting you have an 85/2 (late) version.

 

Ok well that makes it pretty obvious now ha. I have a late 1985 chassis, you're right :]

Judging by this list: http://www.ppkat.com/html/engines.php?code=*M44.07
and my engine number : m44/07 43G00329

I'm guessing my engine is a 1986? If that's true does that mean i have a compatible engine and chassis?