C ANDERSON

sounds like the roller on the tensioner is on backwards

Elliot9

I don't understand what you mean. The tensioner only goes on one way with the large nut side facing out with the locking bolt on top of that.

C ANDERSON

the roller can go on two ways the lip needs to go towards the block when you bolt it to the tensioner , that keeps the belt from running off to the rear .
Clifton

Elliot9

Then by the looks of it I have an improperly manufactured tensioner, the lip is on the side where the two nuts are for adjusting the tension. I'll just re-use my old one I guess since I know it worked.

Izzy Does It

Elliot, are you adjusting the belts to specs or are you doing so by feel? I would not recommend by feel.

C ANDERSON

the cogged roller will go on either way just turn it around

Elliot9

I'm not throwing down $600 for the factory tool, so I'm using the feeler guage method from the Timing Belt book I have at my school.

C ANDERSON

The feeler gouge is for the balance belt pulley to keep from slapping has nothing to do with the tension of the belt.

The roller that I believe you may on backwards is on the timing belt tensioner and is bolted to it with a bolt and nut . the lip-flange on the cogged roller goes against the engine not against the tensioner to keep it from going off the engine side, the water pump has the flange on the front side to keep from going off the front side.

C ANDERSON

Elliot,
Just figured out you have a non spring tension timing belt tensioner . Sorry about the confusion . the early cars your right it has the adjusting nut made on the tensioner pulley and the flange is on the rear. can only go on one way.
My have belt way to tight.
Have you been to Clarks Garage.com they have a real good section in the cam area about tensioning and also the seals for the balance shaft procedure.

Clifton

Otecron

Elliot, the clunking from the rear of your vehicle sounds like it is probably one of the half axle CV joints. Sounds like you are going through the same initial repairs that I made on my '89.

Elliot9

We've inspected the rear end and decided it needs transaxle fluid and wheel bearings but that the axles are okay for now.

C ANDERSON

Clunking may be the rubber center clutch. pull the big rubber plug at the trans and reach in and try to turn the drive shaft in the torque tube should have no slack while in gear.

Elliot9

It's on the original factory clutch so I'll be doing that next semester in school.

Elliot9

Had a lot of problems trying to do the lower balance shaft seal today and ended up ripping it so I didn't make much progress... I'm replacing both the front seal and the front housing o-rings since they look like they might be leaking a little bit too. The timing belt issue has been figured out I just haven't had a chance to install it yet since the seals aren't done. This car is going to be the end of me, fixing one thing uncovers 10 more problems. This is why I hate buying cars more than 10 years old as daily drivers they take longer to fix than cars I restore where I tear everything apart and put it back together again after everything is fixed individually while it's not on the vehicle itself.

Elliot9

Got the last of the needed seals today so maybe the car will at least be running by the end of the week? Who knows, I'm sure the fuel is bad and the battery is long dead by now. After the engine bay is done it's on the gearbox problems then onto the brakes.