fiberwerks 944/na nose kit
03-01-2005, 01:07 AM
#1
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fiberwerks 944/na nose kit
HEY quick question from a newbe. oh! waite my name is george hello all
back to the question anybody have any sub bumper info,i.e. pics ,ideas,drawings to put behind this kit,it is going on a 1985/2 44/na
the kit # is 944nsp01. also any mounting tips for the install would be helpfull.
thanks:
back to the question anybody have any sub bumper info,i.e. pics ,ideas,drawings to put behind this kit,it is going on a 1985/2 44/na
the kit # is 944nsp01. also any mounting tips for the install would be helpfull.
thanks:
03-01-2005, 08:34 PM
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Hi George:
I had great success installing my rear bumper kit from Fiberwerks. The fit is great, and the install was easy. I would recommend that you line up the two or three fender bolts on each side before marking and drilling the center-front brackets. WhenI installed the rear, it turned out to be easier to align the sides first, mark and drill the brackets, and do a final fit and match after that.
I plan on doing the front piece next. My plan is to:
1) Match color and paint the new part first. (I used a liberal amount of #400 and #600 + 2-coats of primer + 4 coats color + 2 coats clear coat on the rear panal. Looks great.)
2) Remove the old bumper (really heavy, be careful) part-way, disconnect turn-signal lights. Pull bumper and remove lights from bumper.
3) Remove bumper shocks.
4) Disconnect fog-lights. Remove underside-center bolts(3) and center-piece bolts (inside large opening/in front of radiator). Clear central "hardware" out of the way.
5) Loosen fender lip bolts and lower spoiler/valance. Remove side marker lights and stow (or mount in new nose-piece). Remove old spoiler/valance completely.
6) Check all fender lips, cut fender-liner where needed for new side-marker location (where necessary). Inspect for fitment.
7) Lift new nose-piece/valance into place and support/secure loosely with tie-down straps/rope/tape.
8) Starting on one side, carefully align fender lips for "as close to perfect" alignment and mark drill locations with perma-markers. Move to other side, align fender lips on that side; mark for drilling, and lower/remove.
9) Drill fender lip mounting holes in new valance. (I "slotted" my drill locations on the rear fender for mounting/placement flexibility. Not a lot, but enough to make micro-adjustments for fit.)
10) Mount the 2 floating brackets to the car where the bumper shocks used to go (13mm socket). Replace the new valance in position and mount hardware more solidly to the fender lips on both sides. It should line up nicely on both sides. I found I had to slightly bow the rear piece(<.025") to get the sides to perfectly match-up.
11) Mark and drill center brackets (where the shocks used to mount). Here I'll try mounting the brakets to the car and drilling the brackets where they meet, behind the bumper portions. That's how I did the rear. Drill brackets. (Note, if I can't drill the brackets with the valance in place, I'll drop the valance again. A little bit of hassle, but worth a good fit.)
12) Install hardware to the newly drilled center brackets, and tighten.
Done.
Optional: attach the bottom of the new valance to the bottom of the radiator brace. You'll need to extend the bottom with a piece of aluminum or fibre-glass. Install expanded aluminum in vent-holes to keep out debris near radiator and brakes.
These are my thoughts. I'm guessing the better part of 6 to 8 hours if I take my time and do it right.
Good luck!
I had great success installing my rear bumper kit from Fiberwerks. The fit is great, and the install was easy. I would recommend that you line up the two or three fender bolts on each side before marking and drilling the center-front brackets. WhenI installed the rear, it turned out to be easier to align the sides first, mark and drill the brackets, and do a final fit and match after that.
I plan on doing the front piece next. My plan is to:
1) Match color and paint the new part first. (I used a liberal amount of #400 and #600 + 2-coats of primer + 4 coats color + 2 coats clear coat on the rear panal. Looks great.)
2) Remove the old bumper (really heavy, be careful) part-way, disconnect turn-signal lights. Pull bumper and remove lights from bumper.
3) Remove bumper shocks.
4) Disconnect fog-lights. Remove underside-center bolts(3) and center-piece bolts (inside large opening/in front of radiator). Clear central "hardware" out of the way.
5) Loosen fender lip bolts and lower spoiler/valance. Remove side marker lights and stow (or mount in new nose-piece). Remove old spoiler/valance completely.
6) Check all fender lips, cut fender-liner where needed for new side-marker location (where necessary). Inspect for fitment.
7) Lift new nose-piece/valance into place and support/secure loosely with tie-down straps/rope/tape.
8) Starting on one side, carefully align fender lips for "as close to perfect" alignment and mark drill locations with perma-markers. Move to other side, align fender lips on that side; mark for drilling, and lower/remove.
9) Drill fender lip mounting holes in new valance. (I "slotted" my drill locations on the rear fender for mounting/placement flexibility. Not a lot, but enough to make micro-adjustments for fit.)
10) Mount the 2 floating brackets to the car where the bumper shocks used to go (13mm socket). Replace the new valance in position and mount hardware more solidly to the fender lips on both sides. It should line up nicely on both sides. I found I had to slightly bow the rear piece(<.025") to get the sides to perfectly match-up.
11) Mark and drill center brackets (where the shocks used to mount). Here I'll try mounting the brakets to the car and drilling the brackets where they meet, behind the bumper portions. That's how I did the rear. Drill brackets. (Note, if I can't drill the brackets with the valance in place, I'll drop the valance again. A little bit of hassle, but worth a good fit.)
12) Install hardware to the newly drilled center brackets, and tighten.
Done.
Optional: attach the bottom of the new valance to the bottom of the radiator brace. You'll need to extend the bottom with a piece of aluminum or fibre-glass. Install expanded aluminum in vent-holes to keep out debris near radiator and brakes.
These are my thoughts. I'm guessing the better part of 6 to 8 hours if I take my time and do it right.
Good luck!
03-01-2005, 11:29 PM
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thank's dano this info should be enough to get it installed with a nice fit.just a side note iam going to drill and fit first if it looks good then i will remove and finish the paint work and reinstall. i like your idea about slotting the holes for fit . what about a sub bumper any ideas on that ?
03-03-2005, 01:40 PM
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For a sub-bumper, I'm looking into a flat piece of aluminum; approx 2 or 3 inches wide by XX feet long by 1/16" thick to fit between the fiberwerks braces, and behind the fiberwerks bumper/nose piece. This would give a tiny bit of integral-strength just behind the fiberglass for those numbskulls who might tap you in a parking lot. Any metal supply shop could sell you a straight piece of aluminum, and you could drill and bow it to fit with a couple of light-weight "L" brackets from Home Depot, right into the Fiberwerks mounting brackets. This is probably what I'll do.
Also, for a skid plate, I'm not sure what your options are. With the wet-sump oil pan below, and stuff like the pullies, steering rack, etc, in front and hanging down, I'm not sure how you'd bolt up anything effective .... plus you'llbe adding more weight; something a 944 doesn't need. So, I'd have to day, avoid anything that might strike the underside of your car. (As a side note, my oil pan actually has 2 small "hair-line" cracks from when the previous owner hit something. It has me a bit worried...)
Good luck!
Also, for a skid plate, I'm not sure what your options are. With the wet-sump oil pan below, and stuff like the pullies, steering rack, etc, in front and hanging down, I'm not sure how you'd bolt up anything effective .... plus you'llbe adding more weight; something a 944 doesn't need. So, I'd have to day, avoid anything that might strike the underside of your car. (As a side note, my oil pan actually has 2 small "hair-line" cracks from when the previous owner hit something. It has me a bit worried...)
Good luck!
