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Hey guys, so far so good working on replacing the hoses as we speak. Question for you guys with the Lindsey kit, is it normal/ safe to trim the upper rad hose? Mine is hitting the alternator when installed.
The lower hose to the tank is fine, but the hose that transfers the coolant from the block to the rad is giving me a little trouble
I really hope this is good enough I’m getting killed out here 😂
If your engine mounts are good, I'd worry about the engine moving a little bit and eating that hose a little bit.
I don't remember having that problem with the Lindsey hoses, but I also have a different engine and set of hoses. That said, is there some place you can zip tie that thing closer to the radiator? Failing that, depending on how much hose you have to work with after the bend, taking 3 mm off would do wonders for peace of mind.
I see that you are running blue spark plug wires. Are they Magnecore wires? I have a set on my ‘83, but I have problems with the boots on the plug ends, as they rip apart when trying to pull out a plug to do a check. Also, I think they are allowing spark to jump to ground and causing a miss. They seem to be tightly anchored to the plug. How have your wires treated you? Just wondering. TIA.
If your engine mounts are good, I'd worry about the engine moving a little bit and eating that hose a little bit.
I don't remember having that problem with the Lindsey hoses, but I also have a different engine and set of hoses. That said, is there some place you can zip tie that thing closer to the radiator? Failing that, depending on how much hose you have to work with after the bend, taking 3 mm off would do wonders for peace of mind.
Good luck
I lopped a little bit more off the radiator end, and did a quick test fit with the air intake in. Once that’s bolted in the bracket will hold it up enough to give it plenty of clearance. I had to chop the bottom hose a little bit as well as it had a bit of a kink in it with both ends seated. I think in total I took about a half inch off on both hoses and now they fit great.
I see that you are running blue spark plug wires. Are they Magnecore wires? I have a set on my ‘83, but I have problems with the boots on the plug ends, as they rip apart when trying to pull out a plug to do a check. Also, I think they are allowing spark to jump to ground and causing a miss. They seem to be tightly anchored to the plug. How have your wires treated you? Just wondering. TIA.
Im not 100% sure if these are magnecore wires but what I can tell you is that they are NGK wires. So far they’ve been great. I have had zero issues with them. My old wires gave me a good zap letting me know they were bad lol. Happy to report no electrocutions with the NGKs 😂👍🏻
It’s always when you’re almost done with something that the big job stopping problem arises.
The ID of the Lindsey hose is a bit smaller than the ID of the factory rubber hose on the line running from the top of the rad to the expansion tank on the drivers side. The small hose not the larger X over pipe.
This isn’t a problem because it fits the stock barb just fine, but the CSF barb is about 2mm wider than the factory barb, and that last hose refuses to go on.
I was able to install the other hoses fine enough, but this one just doesn’t want to play ball. Fortunately it shouldn’t be difficult to find a 10mm ID silicone coolant line from Napa or Pep boys or something.
One of those details that will matter for anyone wanting to run Lindsey hoses with the CSF rad.
Okay new rad is in everything’s bled. Here’s the final nail in the coffin/ beat a dead horse.
The rad is great.
The fans and shroud are not.
30 min AC test with a brand new radiator.
When I originally just reinstalled the stock fans even with the old crap radiator the needle never went more than half way up the gauge.
To even further beat the dead horse, I took another airflow reading with the spal fans installed brand new radiator with the car running.
the new rad allowed the fans to move 570 ft/min
a HUGE increase over the stock clogged radiator.
but the shroud blocks off too much of the rad and the fans are too small. CSF if you guys see this you might want keep the rads for sale, but from where I’m at I don’t think the fan shroud is a good purchase. Maybe if it can be redesigned and adapted to fit bigger higher flowing fans sure.
I really thought the improved airflow would’ve balanced the closed off design of the rest of the shroud. But now I’m out $400 on something that was advertised as being an upgrade that I can’t sell to another user or recommend because I’m my case it actually harmed performance.
TLR
If you need a radiator for your 944 the CSF rad is a great option and priced right around what a stock replacement costs these days.
Don’t get the fan kit your car will run just fine until you turn your AC on.
Do you think the CSF fans can be swapped onto the factory shroud? That’s assuming the CSF fans are more efficient and pull less current.
Unfortunately all my testing is now completely halted. I took the car out for a drive with the AC running. And it actually performed beautifully. Camped at just above the 80c mark.
after 40 minutes of driving on my way home the car just completely died. Absolutely dead. Cranks just fine. I have oil pressure. Tach bounce. I have a solid state DME relay. I can hear the fuel pump priming. Occasionally it started, and ran at maybe 200rpm for a couple seconds before dying again.
No loud bangs. No pinging (pistons hitting valves) noises. Just a complete and utter refusal to start and run. I just got the car towed home. I am absolutely stumped. It’s presenting almost identical issues my previous 944 had which after 2 years of diagnosing and troubleshooting turned out to be the DME.
Plugs are new, wires are new, injectors resealed, new fuel rail, new damper, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new oil pressure sending unit, new DME coolant temp sensor.
My initial instinct leads me to either the AFM, the DME, the ignition coil, maybe the speed and reference sensors although I have tach bounce.
Couldn’t have happened at a worse time the car was running beautifully and cool with the new radiator.
unless I trusted my gauge too much and just blew my head gasket although for what it’s worth no white smoke.
Edit oil is clean and so is the brand new coolant
Last edited by Jacob AbuKhader; 07-31-2023 at 03:02 AM.
Did a couple of the Mickey Mouse tests. Swapped a spare AFM, pulled an injector plug. Whenever I get a second set of hands I’ll pull a spark plug and check for spark. And check voltage at the coil.
Not doing so is going to cause more confusion, time and money (especially if you start just replacing parts without doing proper diagnosis/testing) You've already replaced many parts which may or may not have been actually needed. Clarks has the testing procedures for just about everything. Real mechanics test and diagnose things before replacing, although some things are very hard to test, such as a bad DME, which is why its a last resort replacement once everything else checks out.
Last edited by walfreyydo; 07-31-2023 at 01:27 PM.
Not doing so is going to cause more confusion, time and money (especially if you start just replacing parts without doing proper diagnosis/testing) You've already replaced many parts which may or may not have been actually needed. Clarks has the testing procedures for just about everything. Real mechanics test and diagnose things before replacing, although some things are very hard to test, such as a bad DME, which is why its a last resort replacement once everything else checks out.
Wilco. I have a Lindsey rail so I have to get a different adapter for the rail.
I’ll try and get a spark tester today.
went down this road with my 83 before it was totaled.
That’s exactly the route I decided to take. Had my brother spray some brake clean in the intake while I cranked. Car fired right up. Clearly a fuel issue. Must be a ****e quality pump. I replaced it around a year ago after the original died on me.
Any chance there’s a bigger issue like something is cooking my fuel pumps? Could it be a tank venting issue? I do get a big VWOOOOSH sometimes when opening the cap to fill.
07-27-2023 | 07:43 PM
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