Water pump project
#1
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Thread Starter
Water pump project
As many of you have probably done, being my first time, I’ll be finishing my tear down soon as I’ve found a leak at the water pump (assumption due to where the leak is coming from)...Also, I can see some oil at the base of the crank pulley so I’m planning on doing gaskets while in there.
You all have any recommendations on what to replace while I have timing belts and water pump off? While I’m in there....I hope to order most of what I need at once so I’m not waiting 3 days for a part and 3 more for another and ... etc
Thank you!
You all have any recommendations on what to replace while I have timing belts and water pump off? While I’m in there....I hope to order most of what I need at once so I’m not waiting 3 days for a part and 3 more for another and ... etc
Thank you!
#2
Rennlist Member
As many of you have probably done, being my first time, I’ll be finishing my tear down soon as I’ve found a leak at the water pump (assumption due to where the leak is coming from)...Also, I can see some oil at the base of the crank pulley so I’m planning on doing gaskets while in there.
You all have any recommendations on what to replace while I have timing belts and water pump off? While I’m in there....I hope to order most of what I need at once so I’m not waiting 3 days for a part and 3 more for another and ... etc
Thank you!
You all have any recommendations on what to replace while I have timing belts and water pump off? While I’m in there....I hope to order most of what I need at once so I’m not waiting 3 days for a part and 3 more for another and ... etc
Thank you!
#3
Instructor
All this...
Plus while I'm in there (...), usually go update the PS hose, re-seal that pump, and replace all of the OPRV o-rings (late model: two o-rings, one crush washer. early model: ...ask someone else). It may be prudent to do the oil cooler seals as well. Both times I've done this I have also replaced the oil pump gear, though I'm not sure it was really necessary (wear here seems minimal compared to balance shafts).
No replies on this yet? The main 924/944/968 sees much more traffic. In any case, definitely do all the rollers, and re-seal the crank, cam, and balance shafts (seals+bushings). I strongly recommend a great deal of care when attempting to break loose the water pump bolts. It's very common for the very bottom one to be seized. Try smacking the bolts straight on the head with a hammer and punch to 'wake them up'. There are four studs at the top...if they don't look too bad I'd leave them alone personally. They go in to the water jacket, and have about a 125% chance of snapping off if you try and remove them. And, while you're at it, buy new bolts to replace the old ones, every one of which you'll have been lucky to remove without breaking. Run a tap through all the holes, clean out with brake cleaner and compressed air. Use something on the threads to prevent corrosion. Lindsey racing recommends a threadlocker. I used marine grade anti-seize. I used a gasket sealer (Threebond) and cleaned the sealing surface thoroughly. Everyone says you shouldn't need sealant, but that's in a perfect world, and I don't live there...
#4
AutoX
Thread Starter
No replies on this yet? The main 924/944/968 sees much more traffic. In any case, definitely do all the rollers, and re-seal the crank, cam, and balance shafts (seals+bushings). I strongly recommend a great deal of care when attempting to break loose the water pump bolts. It's very common for the very bottom one to be seized. Try smacking the bolts straight on the head with a hammer and punch to 'wake them up'. There are four studs at the top...if they don't look too bad I'd leave them alone personally. They go in to the water jacket, and have about a 125% chance of snapping off if you try and remove them. And, while you're at it, buy new bolts to replace the old ones, every one of which you'll have been lucky to remove without breaking. Run a tap through all the holes, clean out with brake cleaner and compressed air. Use something on the threads to prevent corrosion. Lindsey racing recommends a threadlocker. I used marine grade anti-seize. I used a gasket sealer (Threebond) and cleaned the sealing surface thoroughly. Everyone says you shouldn't need sealant, but that's in a perfect world, and I don't live there...
about to go back on tackling a couple oil leaks this time yeehaw