How do you bleed the Automatic Transmission Lines?
#1
How do you bleed the Automatic Transmission Lines?
I recently went through the process of replacing my Damper Plate (on an early Automatic).
To remove the Transmission you have to disconnect the Transmission Cooling Feed & Return lines.
The lines are also run along the top of the Bellhouse on the Driver's side, and to give yourself some additional wiggle room with the lines, you can also disconnect them at the connection points just behind the fuel rail where the firewall starts to slope backwards over the Bellhousing.
My question is, when the lines are disconnected, air is getting into a system that I can only assume had fluid it it (although hardly anything drained-out when I disconnected it).
Is there a process to bleed the air out of these lines (like the Brake Lines or the Radiator Hoses), OR is this an open/vented system, and it only pumps through the lines as the Trans is running, and any air just vents out?
I didn't see ANY mention of bleeding the lines in the Service Manual. It just says to warm it to operating temperature, and add fluid to the reservoir as necessary.
Thoughts?
To remove the Transmission you have to disconnect the Transmission Cooling Feed & Return lines.
The lines are also run along the top of the Bellhouse on the Driver's side, and to give yourself some additional wiggle room with the lines, you can also disconnect them at the connection points just behind the fuel rail where the firewall starts to slope backwards over the Bellhousing.
My question is, when the lines are disconnected, air is getting into a system that I can only assume had fluid it it (although hardly anything drained-out when I disconnected it).
Is there a process to bleed the air out of these lines (like the Brake Lines or the Radiator Hoses), OR is this an open/vented system, and it only pumps through the lines as the Trans is running, and any air just vents out?
I didn't see ANY mention of bleeding the lines in the Service Manual. It just says to warm it to operating temperature, and add fluid to the reservoir as necessary.
Thoughts?
#3
If it's at all like the 928, that part about getting it to operating temperature is pretty important for measuring the right level. Ideally, you drive around for 20 minutes and measure the level while the car is idling. If that's not possible, try to measure and fill shortly after that.
Cheers
Cheers