Noahjh

Need some emergency quick advice. In the middle of doing my clutch. Just pulled the slave cylinder off the bell housing. When I did, the pin which engages with the fork was all the way extended, and would not go in. It worked perfectly before, as I used the clutch to rotate the coupling shaft at the transmission. Seems as though it is stuck all the way out. I went to put it back in to see if it would just press down when bolted in, but it was so far extended, the bolts wouldn't reach. I couldn't press it in at all to line up the bolts. The first picture I added shows how far out this pin extended, the second shows how close i could get the slave cylinder to its mounting points on the bell housing. Do I need to make an emergency order to fcp euro? Please let me know what you think, thank you!

This is how far the pin was extended when I pulled it out, would not slide back in.

This is as close as I can get it to the mounting points, as the pin was up against the clutch fork.

Dan Martinic

I can't see.. but if the line is still attached, you might have to open the bleed screw to push it in. If that doesn't work, you'll have to remove it, pry it open, and see if it's salvageable.

Here's a good view of what it's like inside.. note the guy hammers the retaining ring off but you can take your time and maybe save it for re-use. If it's scored inside, you'll need to toss it

Noahjh

That might be it, I'll have to take a look, but my bell housing is giving me more issues that are more concerning unfortunately....

Spring44

That attached video has to be one of the most cringe-worthy repair videos ever. If that slave cylinder worked after the way he "rebuilt" it with a hammer and a steel pot scrubber, it is just a miracle!

Noahjh

Yeah, maybe I'll take the video as advice as apposed to gospel, but it at least got me thinking in the right direction. I'll leave the hammers where they belong lol.

Zirconocene

I ended up rebuilding my slave cylinder a with one of the kits that's available. There was some rust on the parts that I cleaned up by chucking the pin on a drill press and polishing it up with some very fine sandpaper. I also honed the inside of the cylinder.

When I was going through this work, a lot of the advice I got (which I very much believe) indicated that removing and disassembling these parts could cause issues to appear. My take on it is that after such a long time, things are at an equilibrium. Actions like letting the pin extend all the way have a tendency to cause things inside to shift and displace gunk that was not causing a problem. That may be what's happening. It may also just be the case that if you can clean things up, lubricate the moving parts appropriately, and put in new seals that you'll be right as rain. At the very least, I think that your pin needs some rehab, which will require a rebuild at a minimum.

Good luck!