GeorgeM

Car quit while driving and now will not start. Cranks fine and sounds like it's trying to catch occasionally, but no dice.

Leading up to this, I had been having some low idle issues and almost stalling when putting clutch in, like the ISV wasn't coming on to "recover" the RPM during stops... with or without the a/c.

Also, I had recently installed a new throttle cable (the one that goes around the wheel). I thought it might be too tight, so loosened it to ensure the TPS clicked when throttle closed.

I swapped fuel pump and LH relays and bypassed ignition monitor relay for good measure. Pump comes on briefly with the key, so I assume it's working. Checked one ignition wire on each bank with a timing light and it was flashing, so it appears that I have a spark.

Another tidbit, I seem to remember reading about this indicating a certain failure, but can't find it... when cranking, the tach needle does not move (CPS?) Also, when I return the key to off after cranking, the tach needle jumps to 2, then drops to zero.

Top end refresh within the last 20k, so all the sensors are fairly new. LH refurbed 5-6 years ago as well.

Any ideas appreciated. Need to get it back on the road for PVGP.

Thanks!!!

Kevin in Atlanta

Can you hear the injectors clicking?

ammonman

I don't think the pumps are supposed to come on until the engine is actually cranking. Have someone crank the engine while you listen to the fuel pumps at the tank. If no pumps with engine cranking then you likely need a new CPS or perhaps a new LH.

Mike

drooman

with the tach symptom it sounds like LH power supply issue, if you can check for injector pulse while cranking you may find no pulse. If you have and can use the diagrams there's a kind of complex path through a few relays to power the LH computer...get to tracing. If you want to give up and sell me the car that would be fine too, it was my hands down favorite at Hershey.

Kevin in Atlanta

If you are getting spark the CPS is fine. As for the fuel pump goes it sounds fine. Runs until the rails are pressurised.

Mrmerlin

swap out the fuel pump fuse make sure its tight in the slot,
check the battery connections by taking them apart and putting them back together

GeorgeM

Done. Also checked the fuel pump while cranking, and it was running. No start.

Bertrand Daoust

You can also check the fuel pressure at the rail.
Just to make sure.

Good luck.

dr bob

Look through a vent hole in the belt covers to verify that the belt is still there. Better, pull the pass side cover and inspect the path to make sure the belt is still pulling on the pulleys.

Fuel pumps, LH/Injectors and cooling fans get power via the smaller red wires at the battery posiive terminal. Clean the terminals on those and reinstall.

When checking spark, pick a cylinder on each of the distributors. Each distributor feeds two cylinders on each bank.

Any timing belt warnings?

VERIFY that the MAF is seated correctkly, and that the connectors is fully seated. If you didn't clean those connectors as part of the intake refresh, now's a good time. Deoxit and/or a soft brass brush will do a lot there.

VERIFY the LH ground connection near the throttle wheel. Close to what you most recently worked on, easy to miss during intake refresh, and will keep the injectors from injecting.

LISTEN to the injectors while cranking on the starter, using a mechanic's stethoscope. They should click with engine rotation.

Check the spark plugs for raw fuel small immediately after you crank it a bit on the starter.

Checking fuel pressure can be a bit of a challenge unless you have an adapter fitting and a gauge to connect to the right (passenger) front fuel rail fitting. Plastic cover comes off for that.

Make sure the battery is charged.

Randy V

Well, it's up to you to do the driving part.

Perhaps you are not holding up your part of the arrangement?

545svk

I found this helpful. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...n-t-start.html

voskian

George, I had a similar issue with my GT and found the MAF was out of spec and replaced with rebuilt form Rich Andrade.

Also found my "y" connector on the charcoal canister was broke giving me a vacumn leak, and made car stumble on initial start.

All better now. Might be worth a check..

GeorgeM

Thanks, all. Taking a fresh look this AM. MAF was rebuilt only a few months ago and I have the stainless steel y-connector upgrade. I can check it, but no gas smell from that area.

Update in a couple of hours.

Bonton

I imagine you'll be checking for spark - one day I parked my '89 and later it wouldn't start - turned out to be one of the coils!

Josh

Kevin in Atlanta

Kevin Wilson's GTS died in an unusual way. The fuel pump stopped pumping fuel. It hummed and gave all the outward indications it was running. In addition to the clicking of injectors I'd get the fuel pressure checked.