Adjustable FPR and Exhaust Crank Evac
#16
PorKen,
So you hooked wired a AFR meter/guage to you O2 Sensor, or a pipe sniffer?
So the Perma-Tune ignition box was causing the ignition to stop firing at 5700rpm? Are you back to a stock ignition setup?
So you hooked wired a AFR meter/guage to you O2 Sensor, or a pipe sniffer?
So the Perma-Tune ignition box was causing the ignition to stop firing at 5700rpm? Are you back to a stock ignition setup?
#18
Jadz928,
I welded in two oxygen sensor bungs on either side of the exhaust pipe just before the muffler (in place of the cat). One for the stock sensor, and one for the sensor that came with the meter.
All stock: Bosch box, OEM wires, Bosch silver plugs gapped .28, fairly new distributor green wire.
The Perma-Tune was very finicky. All the ignition parts had to be in perfect shape. I bough it as a cheap backup for the stock box.
There could have been arcing in the distrbutor cap, or my old ignition pickup in the distributor may not be up to snuff, whatever, it all works fine with the stock parts.
Have you replaced your green wire? It's often the cause of strange ignition problems.
...
Lizard931,
Here's the original writeup when I installed it: DIY 3" exhaust
With the multi-resonnator rear section it is fairly quiet for a basically straight through 3" pipe, for example, I don't worry about driving by police cars when I have this pipe on.
The straight pipe obviously has much more resonnance at low speeds, but since it points straight out the back, it's not that loud, even if you have the window open. It's bloody marvelous over 4000 rpm, anywhere I go that I'm under 60MPH, I tend to leave it in first, just to listen to the exhaust, it's like a jet turbine wail.
I welded in two oxygen sensor bungs on either side of the exhaust pipe just before the muffler (in place of the cat). One for the stock sensor, and one for the sensor that came with the meter.
All stock: Bosch box, OEM wires, Bosch silver plugs gapped .28, fairly new distributor green wire.
The Perma-Tune was very finicky. All the ignition parts had to be in perfect shape. I bough it as a cheap backup for the stock box.
There could have been arcing in the distrbutor cap, or my old ignition pickup in the distributor may not be up to snuff, whatever, it all works fine with the stock parts.
Have you replaced your green wire? It's often the cause of strange ignition problems.
...
Lizard931,
Here's the original writeup when I installed it: DIY 3" exhaust
With the multi-resonnator rear section it is fairly quiet for a basically straight through 3" pipe, for example, I don't worry about driving by police cars when I have this pipe on.
The straight pipe obviously has much more resonnance at low speeds, but since it points straight out the back, it's not that loud, even if you have the window open. It's bloody marvelous over 4000 rpm, anywhere I go that I'm under 60MPH, I tend to leave it in first, just to listen to the exhaust, it's like a jet turbine wail.
#19
For anyone that's interested:
The AFM (air flow meter) bypass screw has a possible 14 full turns before it falls out of it's threads.
...
I went up to 43 PSI for the dyno and I'm not sure if I'll be able to adjust the AFM for the oxygen sensor to work...
The AFM (air flow meter) bypass screw has a possible 14 full turns before it falls out of it's threads.
...
I went up to 43 PSI for the dyno and I'm not sure if I'll be able to adjust the AFM for the oxygen sensor to work...
#20
Just back from the gas station. After two tankfuls, even with the increased fuel pressure, I've gone from 10-12 MPG, to 15 MPG (mostly city)!
With the increased fuel pressure, I was able to plug the oxygen sensor back in, and still have it run smoothly. I imagine this is the major factor in the increased mileage.
For the street I settled on:
41 PSI fuel pressure
3 degrees cam advance
Oxygen sensor plugged in
30 degrees ignition advance @ 3000
.032 spark plug gap (max stock spec)
12 turns out on the AFM bypass screw
...
Time to go over the hills, etc. and eat some Turkey!
With the increased fuel pressure, I was able to plug the oxygen sensor back in, and still have it run smoothly. I imagine this is the major factor in the increased mileage.
For the street I settled on:
41 PSI fuel pressure
3 degrees cam advance
Oxygen sensor plugged in
30 degrees ignition advance @ 3000
.032 spark plug gap (max stock spec)
12 turns out on the AFM bypass screw
...
Time to go over the hills, etc. and eat some Turkey!
Last edited by PorKen; 11-29-2003 at 02:19 AM.
#21
Where can I locate a crankcase breather on my 82 Ljet and what parts would I have to buy to do so? Is there just a way to mount it to your oil filler? Or do i have to run hoses?
Thanks
Cory J.
82 weissach
Thanks
Cory J.
82 weissach
#22
Cory,
I used to have just the K&N breather on the oil filler cap.
At low rpm's it would belch stinky oily steam. At high rpm's, oil would be pushed out of any bad seals, for example, my leaky cam tower seals, because of normal crankcase pressures.
With the simple exhaust setup, all fumes are gone, and I had no oil spray from bad seals on the dyno, even at 150+MPH.
I used to have just the K&N breather on the oil filler cap.
At low rpm's it would belch stinky oily steam. At high rpm's, oil would be pushed out of any bad seals, for example, my leaky cam tower seals, because of normal crankcase pressures.
With the simple exhaust setup, all fumes are gone, and I had no oil spray from bad seals on the dyno, even at 150+MPH.
Last edited by PorKen; 07-11-2004 at 11:30 PM.