jcorenman

The seal is between the gasket and the "lip" on the face of the tank boss. The purpose of adding a clamp is to reinforce the plastic "boss" and prevent the original knurled insert from spinning. It doesn't change how it seals.

Bauer's insert has a smooth surface and uses a "finger" to prevent rotation. I don't think a clamp would help much without some sort of texture on the insert.

jcorenman

This thread describes what I did, exactly the same situation you found:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post11611542

The insert has to go back in from the inside, I sent it down a guide-wire from the top (tank sender out) and then gently tapped it into place with an improvised slide-hammer. I then added a clamp to reinforce the boss and hopefully prevent a recurrence. See pics in post #3 above.

Here's another thread, a bunch of other links and Bob's post is also quoted:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...cessfully.html

dr bob

^^ What Jim said ^^^

The little tool we made has a few washers to keep things centered and square in the sleeve going in. I used some mechanics's wire and a few cable ties on each end of the all-thread so I could pass the pieces into the tank and get them lined up. Once I had a hand on the end sticking out of the nozzle, I cut the ties and added the washers and the nuts needed to draw the insert into place. We coated the outside of the sleeve and the bore of the tank nozzle with the JBWeld before dropping the assembly into the tank via the sender opening. Once it was drawn into place, we left the puller/tooling in place with tension on it for a day to let the JBWeld cure completely. Then we took the nuts and washers off from the outside of the tank, and used the mechanic's wire still attached to the tool down through the sender hole to lift the installation bits out..

BauerR

No need for a clamp and yes, I also needed to use the threaded rod technique to draw it into place.

SB928

Any idea as to when these sleeves might be available? Other than waiting for a couple of fuel line fittings from CISFlowtech, my son and I are getting antsy about firing this car up after a 5 year wait.

waynestrutt

To the original poster this is a great solution. I had my tank insert turn out and replaced it using a liberal coating of epoxy on both surfaces. This necessitated heating the boss around the hole with a heat gun until it was flexible but not deformed in order to get the hub into the hole. I used “marine gas tank epoxy” and ensured that the knurled lines lined up for the tightest fit. The epoxy was smoothed on the outside and cured with additional heat. Then I left it for about 4 days before I put gas into the tank. Satisfied with the repair I installed the tank into the car and filled the tank up. That was 4 years ago and still not even a drip. Cost was about 15.00 for the epoxy.

BauerR

I'm not sure. I've got nearly 400 miles on mine with no issue so far.

SB928

Well, I'd certainly be willing to be a test pig for you, if they're available. My insert in the photos above, has corrosion all the way up to the threads and don't think its a viable option to re-install it. It's either that or start looking for another tank.
I found out after getting the old sock out that the PO must have re-installed an old sock with damaged threads or the sleeve had damaged threads and he just cranked it in there, never to taken out smoothly again....

ROG100

I would be very happy to sell them for you if you want an initial order quantity to make it worth while machining a batch.

I also have a number of tanks that need resurrecting.

hacker-pschorr

I cannot fathom how this setup would fail unless the tank itself were compromised. On that note, future installations should come with a warning it doesn't have to be super tight, just enough to "squish" the rubber gasket. Not much different than an oil filter.

Maybe even a smear of oil just like on a filter would be a good idea to keep the rubber from being damaged as you tighten it.

dr bob

Hmmm. I didn't see your insert in any of the pictures above. I do see the tank nozzle where the insert would normally sit. Can you post a pic of the insert?

---

With exactly one tank-insert repair under my belt, I'll share that the one we fixed had quite a bit of corrosion in the steel insert. I had to carefully cut and section the aluminum fitting to get it out, thanks to that corrosion. I ended up cleaning the big stuff off/out of the steel piece with a small detailer's wire brush (like a toothbrush), then dropped it into a plastic cup with CLR for a day. There are plenty of rust-removers and neutralizers available, but I happened to have some CLR under the garage sink and the cup so that's what we tried first. A little intermediate brushing and a final cleaning with the same brush netted us good results.

Note that BauerR's sleeve replaces the corroded one from your tank. With a new aluminum fitting, and a coating of TFE pipe sealant paste on the threads, the ongoing corrosion problems should be mitigated.

BauerR

I will reach out to you.

I just torqued everything to factory specs. I can see why anyone would do anything differently.

SB928

dr bob, the photo of my insert is the 2nd pic in #42 above. Obviously sat for a while with gas or water in it. Corroded almost up to the threads. Also, half the inside threads are galled because the PO installed a bad sock filter to begin with.
So up the proverbial creek right now, wait for BauerR's sleeve (sorry, don't know too many names yet) or find a tank and fix this one at a later date.
Thanks again
Bob

dr bob

I see a reply from Jim Corenman in #42. #43 has one frame in it, showing the tank nozzle after the insert was removed.

Without seeing yours, I can share that the one that came out of the local clinic car had quite a bit of corrosion in the threads. The car wasn't driven much, and likely had water condensing in the tank. Or perhaps at least as likely, the E10-15 has enough ethanol in it to grab water and hold it in suspension for a while. After that while it drops to the bottom of the tank where, miraculously, the nozzle and the insert happen to live. So dissimilar metals, water, sloshing, and some dissolved oxyben thrown in. A perfect storm of galvanic corrosion and plain old rust. Regardless, sitting in the CLR for a day claened the rust off nicely. The remaining threads weren't perfect but were plenty good to hold the aluminum fitting for the strainer and nipple. CLR is cheap and there's a bottle of it somewhere near you.

SB928

dr bob, my bad, photo of my insert was the second picture in post #40, not #42.
Pretty corroded, but after searching for reasonably priced tanks that may or may not have the exact same issue, I just might re-use this insert and tank until I find another tank or this threads fitting becomes available.
Bob