Airflite40

I have seen this topic pop up everynow and then, but haven't found a seperate thread for it. Take charge, here it is. If you have done a head gasket job on a 16v with the engine in the car, please post! If anyone has any knowledge of this please share information. I am still deliberating to pull the engine or not.

Lagavulin

I have worked on a USA '79 where the heads and cams were replaced with Euro heads and cams. All work was done with the block in the car. Only a few things were a little tight space-wise here and there, but it's definitely doable.

With that said, if you have time and the space, pulling the engine makes assembly of the engine easier.

SteveG

Borys, see thread below titled "Engine out" HTH.

Z

A head gasket replacement was done with the engine in the car on a local '80 Euro 5-speed. It's a tight fit, but it is possible.

Airflite40

Thanks, i read that post prior to making this one. I just want to hear from someone that has done this before. Is there anyone?

Randy V

It seems that 2 folks say it is possible.

GlenL

I did it. Also did just one cam-tower for a lifter sleeve. It can be done. But it is a very difficult job. Easily the worst so far for me on this car.

V-Fib

I've done it both ways, and removing the engine definately makes re-assembly easier. That being said. A few things to make life a little easier. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Set the crank at TDC on the #1 compression stroke. Take lots of photo's of the engine/vacuum connections ect. Digital cameras are worth their weight. You will need a quality 6mm hex wrench (L) or hex socket. I say quality, because you will need a good fit into the cam tower bolt heads. If you strip one (head) out, The engine will have to come out. There is adequate room on the right side, but limited room on the left, especially the last bolts next to the brake booster and the one in front of the shock tower. Most hex sockets are too short, and won't fit into the cam tower bolt holes. I first cut an L hex wrench (Allen) to fit between the cam tower and the brake booster. I now own a set of S-K long and short hex sockets ($70.00/set) Without them you can't properly torque the bolts to spec. Be careful taking out your old rubber cam tower plugs. They can tear. I replaced all of mine @ $6.00 each. Disconnecting the power steering reservoir hose will aid in access. Also remove the coil. If you drop the bolts into the cam tower on removal, they are easily retrieved when you have them off (a telescoping magnet is a must have). Be sure not to lose the little wave washers. When putting the cam towers back on, start with the hardest to get to bolt first. If you drop a bolt into the cam tower, it will have to come back off for retrieval. Be very careful when taking the cam towers off or putting them on, the lifters will (can) fall out, possibly damaging them when they fall through or hit the ground. It is important that the lifters stay in the exact order they came out in. Remove the exhaust manifold nuts after you remove the cam towers. Replace the exhaust manifold nuts after torquing the head and before installing the cam towers. The thermostat housing and oil strainer housing must go on in sequence. The oil strainer housing can't be removed or installed unless the t-stat housing is removed. The t-stat housing must be installed carefully and correctly, or you will have leaks, and it all has to come back out. Disconnect the necessary fuel lines at the fuel distributor. That is the only place I disconnected the main fuel lines coming up from the right side. Keep both sides of parts separated and bag and label every bolt/part in zip lock bags. Be careful The aluminum block/threads can be stripped out very easily. A quality tap and die set is great, you can clean the threads of your bolts and threaded holes before re-assembly. Expect corroded bolts around/near any water connections. Check your heads for etching/corrosion. Cover all parts and engine block when not working on them.
WYAI
Replace All Vacuum hoses
Replace Runner rubber tubes
Replace any breather hoses that are cracked.
replace radiator hoses if needed (you have to drain the radiator and block anyway) T-stat too if in doubt
Be prepared to replace the Bonded Rubber Buffers (4) each
(They mount the lower plenum (U) to the block) About $4-6 each
If your plenum moves now, they have separated
The head gasket kits will have all the gaskets you need except the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe gaskets ( Metal $10.00 each)
Support the exhaust system and don't let it hang (by) on the rubber support in the rear by the transmission.
I'm sure Thom and others can give you more information in a more coherent and concise format. If I can help in anyway PM or Email me
Good Luck!



Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic

Dennis Wilson

Anthony pretty well summed it up. On my 78 euro, the exhaust manifold was connected to the head with studs which had to be removed before the head could be extracted. They all came off by double nutting. Also if you are having the heads resurfaced, go ahead and have the cam carrier and top of the head resurfaced. May save an oil leak after reinstall. BTDT.

Dennis

Airflite40

Thanks anthony and dennis and everyone else. I'm still mentally preparing for this job. I might not get to it until spring, as crappy weather is already here in chicago. I think I will concentrate on smaller jobs for the winter.