Leaks in my supercharger plumbing
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Leaks in my supercharger plumbing
Hi guys,
In another thread, I asked where to measure boost pressure. I also decided to test my intake plumbing for boost leaks.
So I built a 3" plug and tapped it for an air hose fitting. Using soapy water I found one loose hose clamp, which was easy to fix. The next, and more significant leaks were at the AFM. The adapter plate which goes from 3" to a flat 4-bolt flange was leaking where the flange joins the AFM. Tightening the 4 bolts did not fix, so I think I will need to take apart and maybe install a new gasket or add RTV,
At the bottom of the AFM I am also getting an air leak where the AFM enters the big O-ring in the throttle body. I replaced this O-ring during SC installation. and I was never totally happy with the seating. I wish I had left the old one in place.
Anyway, it looks like I will pull the center of the spider, and get a good look at how the AFM is seating and how its retainers are positioned.
I will keep my progress posted, and appreciate any advice from those who have been here.
Thanks,
Dave
In another thread, I asked where to measure boost pressure. I also decided to test my intake plumbing for boost leaks.
So I built a 3" plug and tapped it for an air hose fitting. Using soapy water I found one loose hose clamp, which was easy to fix. The next, and more significant leaks were at the AFM. The adapter plate which goes from 3" to a flat 4-bolt flange was leaking where the flange joins the AFM. Tightening the 4 bolts did not fix, so I think I will need to take apart and maybe install a new gasket or add RTV,
At the bottom of the AFM I am also getting an air leak where the AFM enters the big O-ring in the throttle body. I replaced this O-ring during SC installation. and I was never totally happy with the seating. I wish I had left the old one in place.
Anyway, it looks like I will pull the center of the spider, and get a good look at how the AFM is seating and how its retainers are positioned.
I will keep my progress posted, and appreciate any advice from those who have been here.
Thanks,
Dave
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Ryan,
I pulled the spider body, and found my throttle body was loose, and the AFM was not seated in the TB. I will replace the three TB rubber mounting studs and properly seat the AFM. I will cap off all unused vacuum ports and make sure all the others are tight. None are open, but the old hoses are cooked and some are kind of loose. I will pressure test before replacing the spider body. Probably should have tested as I assembled it during SC installation. Oh well, live and learn.
I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
Take care,
Dave
I pulled the spider body, and found my throttle body was loose, and the AFM was not seated in the TB. I will replace the three TB rubber mounting studs and properly seat the AFM. I will cap off all unused vacuum ports and make sure all the others are tight. None are open, but the old hoses are cooked and some are kind of loose. I will pressure test before replacing the spider body. Probably should have tested as I assembled it during SC installation. Oh well, live and learn.
I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
Take care,
Dave
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well i got everything back together, and now I get 5 PSI boost, if I stay on the throttle to redline. I usually bail out before that on back roads around me.
I fixed a massive vacuum leak where the AFM came out of the throttle body. I reinserted the AFM and re-attached the TB to the block. I attached the clamp for the AFM which should keep things in place.
I eliminated all unnecessary vacuum lines and capped them off at the TB.
Performance feels much more brisk.
Pictures were not possible due to dirty hands and lack of organization on my part.
Thanks,
Dave
I fixed a massive vacuum leak where the AFM came out of the throttle body. I reinserted the AFM and re-attached the TB to the block. I attached the clamp for the AFM which should keep things in place.
I eliminated all unnecessary vacuum lines and capped them off at the TB.
Performance feels much more brisk.
Pictures were not possible due to dirty hands and lack of organization on my part.
Thanks,
Dave