Odd Coolant Level Central Warning Indication
#16
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Back to the original issue...
Went to the inline coolant pressure sensor and it appeared to be in very good shape. Disconnected it and found the two contact points to be slightly degraded. A good cleaning followed by Deoxit 100 and no more RED light to annoy me.
Thanks dr bob
Went to the inline coolant pressure sensor and it appeared to be in very good shape. Disconnected it and found the two contact points to be slightly degraded. A good cleaning followed by Deoxit 100 and no more RED light to annoy me.
Thanks dr bob
#19
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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I wouldn't classify it as a bear of a job, but there will frustrations with some access. The short hose on the bottoms is most easily accessed from underneath, in my experience, with a long screwdriver or better, a nut driver or small socket for the hose clamp at the Y end. There are then the two smaller 8mm vent hoses at the top front. Then 2 maybe 3 bolts that hold the reservoir in place. One is at the rear under the fender, and needs some careful tool application to get to it. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet then a second ratcheting adapter and a 10mm deep socket. It's a little fiddly but ultimately came out easily. Less than 30 mins beginning to end including clean-up and system refill.
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=FredR;14141477]
Fred,
In the PDF which is in the link I left, you can see the configurations for fan speeds. He also says there he will customize on the fabrication for customer's needs.
Fred, after my amplifier failed I researched in order to find a more 'modern' replacement. I used the FK-95 unit. This unit is our controller and amplifier in one waterproof unit.
Craig,
Interesting- I will try to read up on this. I presume the bit that failed was the kit that controls the fans. I am a bit suspicious of these things in that when I tried to do some check [a good while ago] it seemed to me that they do not send full bus voltage to the fans- more like 10 to 11 volts if my memory serves me correctly thus why I was looking into different ways of running the fans on full voltage- at least during the hot season.
Craig,
Interesting- I will try to read up on this. I presume the bit that failed was the kit that controls the fans. I am a bit suspicious of these things in that when I tried to do some check [a good while ago] it seemed to me that they do not send full bus voltage to the fans- more like 10 to 11 volts if my memory serves me correctly thus why I was looking into different ways of running the fans on full voltage- at least during the hot season.
In the PDF which is in the link I left, you can see the configurations for fan speeds. He also says there he will customize on the fabrication for customer's needs.
#22
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This is no nightmare.
I changed mine last year when changing all the coolant hoses and it went very well.
I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I think I put the hose first before putting the tank in place.
Like drbob said, it's important to put the clamp so it will be reachable.
Anyway, both of us have seen worst job on a 928... You'll be good.
I changed mine last year when changing all the coolant hoses and it went very well.
I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I think I put the hose first before putting the tank in place.
Like drbob said, it's important to put the clamp so it will be reachable.
Anyway, both of us have seen worst job on a 928... You'll be good.
#23
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
This is no nightmare.
I changed mine last year when changing all the coolant hoses and it went very well.
I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I think I put the hose first before putting the tank in place.
Like drbob said, it's important to put the clamp so it will be reachable.
Anyway, both of us have seen worst job on a 928... You'll be good.
I changed mine last year when changing all the coolant hoses and it went very well.
I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I think I put the hose first before putting the tank in place.
Like drbob said, it's important to put the clamp so it will be reachable.
Anyway, both of us have seen worst job on a 928... You'll be good.
#24
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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For sure the hose comes out and goes in attached to the reservoir. Clamp alignment is critical so you can get the tools on to them. There's probably a way to get to them from the top, but the old original clamps on mine were pointed down for bottom access. Think 'long 1/4- drive extension' from underneath for the clamps. Tighten the on on the reservoir first before the tank goes in. You can do a little dressing on the end of the steel coolant pipe to make sliding the new one on a little easier.
You also have the best ever access to the return end of the heater hose while the reservoir is out. It connects to the other tip of the Y. Good time to change the heater hoses while access is relatively easy and the system is low.
[/scope creep]
You also have the best ever access to the return end of the heater hose while the reservoir is out. It connects to the other tip of the Y. Good time to change the heater hoses while access is relatively easy and the system is low.
[/scope creep]
#26
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Of course good advisement like always from dr bob.
If you go ahead and change all your coolant hoses (and tank), here's a thread I started last year on the subject.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html
If you go ahead and change all your coolant hoses (and tank), here's a thread I started last year on the subject.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html