Garth S

The 4 cable 'quad' on the right side on the manifold is a simple place to start.
As the idle is 'programmed', if you (carefully) pop off the 4 cables, the car should start - and idle correctly: if not, it gets more complex (vacumn leaks, etc.).
If it does idle correctly, then we move on to the fun of 'correct' cable adjustment. Oh, and 'no valve job'.
The throttle cable and either the Xmission control or throttle body cables(can't recall which) have %$@# spring retaining pins in the brass ball heads - which want to get lost. The outter most is the cruise ctrl. cable. - you can leave that off 'till everything else is OK.

ErnestSw

Of course there's always the possibility that your old idle problem will return when you get the cables right. Your "mechanic" may have "fixed" the idle problem by tightening the cable instead of actually replacing the idle stabilizer.
Your stalling problem could have been caused by a vacuum leak in the first place. When an idle stabilizer fails it usually causes the idle speed to vary and COULD cause stalling.
Garth,
Other right.

Nicole

Find a qualified mechanic in your area at:

http://www.eatel.net/~dslabat/mech.htm

Then ask here about users experience with them.

Best of luck!

Porsche930

Hello Garth,

Glad to see your post on Rennlist helping other 928 enthusiasts...

On a similar note, what would you suggest to be a better way to adjust/tighten the outer cable to delay upshifting of an automatic transmission? I have read somewhere that by tightening this cable, the upshifting will be delayed. Thanks!

Tony
88 S4

TJQuill

If you are still looking for a shop in the LA area, the one that seems highest on everyone's list out here is Precision. Never heard a bad word about work done at the shop, but they are a little more expensive than some of the others:

Precision Motorwerks
Greg Brown
Phone 714-879-9072
930 E. Orangethorpe Suite F
Anaheim, California

Garth S

Hey Tony,
Assume your new FI system is 100%!?
Regarding cable adjustment, I'm sure there are well established procedures, and others who've done it many times. I sorted mine out thru what seemed to be a logical progression?? - as there is an interdependance of one cable actuated function to another, this may apply to Cal - if your cables are out of sync.
Firstly, the Throttle body(TB) cable; This cable has length(at the ball cup) and position (threaded plastic nut @ 'quad' bracket) adjustments. The objective is @ no tension, the TB diaphram plate is in the 'idle' position against its stop{ first note to you, Cal} - and the plate hits its 'wide open' BWAAAAAAA position with this cable(inner top on quad) pulled fully forward. With the other cables disconnected, do this initial adjustment: The throttle lever position on the quad is full ahead/ TB lever full back for idle, and the reverse for full throttle. When all seems right, move on to the throttle(loud pedal) cable , located low inside. You'll be back here for final adjustments. [not knowing any better. I started as above, simply due to the fact that, w. length & position adjustments, once you've established the "stroke" - from idle to wide open, the position at beginning of the stroke can be 'fine tuned' by the plastic/ bracket adjuster to sync. w. the throttle cable.]
The throttle cable, with (I believe) a length only adj., must allow neither slack nor tension on the TB plate @ idle, AND have its length adjusted so that at full throttle with the kick down switch engaged, the TB plate is wide open; Caution in setting these as you don't want allow either throttle pedal or TB plate to be forced against(or 'past') it's stops. - stretched/broken cables result.
To get all this right, one will likely play back between the two - it helps to have a buddy to 'floor' the throttle; At the time, I used a stick between the seat/ throttle, and fine tuned w. the power seat controls - to get the pedal down w. the kickdown switch compressed(open).
When happy w. the above ( and its less complicated than it sounds), grab the outer/upper transmission control cable (Wake up Tony, after wading thru all this crap, here's your part!).
This cable is 'length only' adjustable @ the Quad. With the throttle fully released and the TB diaphram/plate on its' idle stops, loosen the 7mm lock nut & turn the brass ball head (with tension on the cable!!) such that the brass cup perfectly centers on its ball stud: not too much tension so as to begin pulling the TB plate off idle! Lock on, and you're done.
Phew! oh yes, reconnect the (lower outside) cruise ctrl. cable it's not too fussy wrt length/position - try to minimize any slack.
Having done all this (Why? - because some other Dolt had 'fixed' them), the auto shifts crisply when trod upon and is almost unnoticable around town. When really into it, it holds shifts to an indicated 6200 RPM. I'm happy!
Maybe there's a simpler, better way to do & explain this-not knowing this, excuse the 'wordiness'.