Removing 928 Doors
#1
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Removing 928 Doors
Hello!
Judging by my search results, no one has ever removed a 928 door
Seriously, I am pulling doors off my parts car and had zero issue with the driver side. The passenger side has a couple of stripped hex heads. I am considering driving the hinge pin out. Any tricks do this? Is a special tool required.
Help appreciated as always! Thanks!
Judging by my search results, no one has ever removed a 928 door
Seriously, I am pulling doors off my parts car and had zero issue with the driver side. The passenger side has a couple of stripped hex heads. I am considering driving the hinge pin out. Any tricks do this? Is a special tool required.
Help appreciated as always! Thanks!
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I rounded the hex on 1 bolt, so drilled it out until the head came off. Had to drill the remaining stub a little shorter so the hinge could slip out of the hinge mount pocket.
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If you undo the triple-square bolts holding the door arrestors to the body you can swing the doors open wider to get 'straight-on' access to the six socket head cap screws. Then if you use a 1/4" spiral extractor chucked in a lefty-loosey impact gun, they'll spin right out, whether you heat them or not, stripped or not. I have done the heat and chisel thing, it involves great pain. With the screw extractor and an impact, 5 minutes to take a door off.
Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108A:
Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108A:
#9
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Rob thats cheating
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I helped do this on my repaint years ago when we did a doors out, windows out paintjob.
The door hinges can adjust up and down as well as in and outward. the only thing that keeps the door aligned are the hinge bolts. The best thing you can do before you remove them is remove the door brake. (that is the assembly that keeps the door from slamming shut and popping open to far) Then put tape on the fender and the door where they might hit each other if the door opened too far. Slowly open the door as far as you can without damaging the paint. This takes 2 people.
Then drill 2 holes the exact size of a small steel rod. We used 1/8th inch... Make sure the holes are drilled upper and lower opposite of each other. These will be alignment pins that are used so that when the door is reinstalled it is aligned exactly where it was before removal and no extra alignment work is needed.
The door hinges can adjust up and down as well as in and outward. the only thing that keeps the door aligned are the hinge bolts. The best thing you can do before you remove them is remove the door brake. (that is the assembly that keeps the door from slamming shut and popping open to far) Then put tape on the fender and the door where they might hit each other if the door opened too far. Slowly open the door as far as you can without damaging the paint. This takes 2 people.
Then drill 2 holes the exact size of a small steel rod. We used 1/8th inch... Make sure the holes are drilled upper and lower opposite of each other. These will be alignment pins that are used so that when the door is reinstalled it is aligned exactly where it was before removal and no extra alignment work is needed.
#12
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No to pins, you have to do it the hard way, here's a pic of the backside, no access, so it's a full frontal attack!
This is the left side, but both are the same.
Last edited by OTR18WHEELER; 04-19-2017 at 11:57 PM.
#14
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If you undo the triple-square bolts holding the door arrestors to the body you can swing the doors open wider to get 'straight-on' access to the six socket head cap screws. Then if you use a 1/4" spiral extractor chucked in a lefty-loosey impact gun, they'll spin right out, whether you heat them or not, stripped or not. I have done the heat and chisel thing, it involves great pain. With the screw extractor and an impact, 5 minutes to take a door off.
Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108.
Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108.
I helped do this on my repaint years ago when we did a doors out, windows out paintjob.
The door hinges can adjust up and down as well as in and outward. the only thing that keeps the door aligned are the hinge bolts. The best thing you can do before you remove them is remove the door brake. (that is the assembly that keeps the door from slamming shut and popping open to far) Then put tape on the fender and the door where they might hit each other if the door opened too far. Slowly open the door as far as you can without damaging the paint. This takes 2 people.
Then drill 2 holes the exact size of a small steel rod. We used 1/8th inch... Make sure the holes are drilled upper and lower opposite of each other. These will be alignment pins that are used so that when the door is reinstalled it is aligned exactly where it was before removal and no extra alignment work is needed.
The door hinges can adjust up and down as well as in and outward. the only thing that keeps the door aligned are the hinge bolts. The best thing you can do before you remove them is remove the door brake. (that is the assembly that keeps the door from slamming shut and popping open to far) Then put tape on the fender and the door where they might hit each other if the door opened too far. Slowly open the door as far as you can without damaging the paint. This takes 2 people.
Then drill 2 holes the exact size of a small steel rod. We used 1/8th inch... Make sure the holes are drilled upper and lower opposite of each other. These will be alignment pins that are used so that when the door is reinstalled it is aligned exactly where it was before removal and no extra alignment work is needed.
Thanks to all !!
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If you undo the triple-square bolts holding the door arrestors to the body you can swing the doors open wider to get 'straight-on' access to the six socket head cap screws. Then if you use a 1/4" spiral extractor chucked in a lefty-loosey impact gun, they'll spin right out, whether you heat them or not, stripped or not. I have done the heat and chisel thing, it involves great pain. With the screw extractor and an impact, 5 minutes to take a door off.
Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108A:
Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108A:
@#$&%!!! On order.
So you chuck this thing up, push it into the head of the bolt and “pull the trigger” on the impact gun.?
ive never had to use an extractor before and i only have one shot at this.
Ill take all and any advice...any details i need.