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Removing 928 Doors

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Old 04-19-2017, 08:33 AM
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Guy
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Default Removing 928 Doors

Hello!

Judging by my search results, no one has ever removed a 928 door

Seriously, I am pulling doors off my parts car and had zero issue with the driver side. The passenger side has a couple of stripped hex heads. I am considering driving the hinge pin out. Any tricks do this? Is a special tool required.

Help appreciated as always! Thanks!
Old 04-19-2017, 08:59 AM
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928S MN
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Those Hex Bolts might have Loctite on them. Try using a soldering gun to heat up the bolts. Then they should come out relatively easy.
Old 04-19-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 928S MN
Those Hex Bolts might have Loctite on them. Try using a soldering gun to heat up the bolts. Then they should come out relatively easy.
Thanks! Unfortunately, they are rounded from a previous removal attempt from a previous owner. Nothing left for the hex to grab.
Old 04-19-2017, 09:15 AM
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I rounded the hex on 1 bolt, so drilled it out until the head came off. Had to drill the remaining stub a little shorter so the hinge could slip out of the hinge mount pocket.
Old 04-19-2017, 12:46 PM
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I had to drill out the bolts to get the doors off of a parts car as well.
Old 04-19-2017, 12:51 PM
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Mark Anderson
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We use a torch and a cold chisel is they are stripped
Old 04-19-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Anderson
We use a torch and a cold chisel is they are stripped
That is what I was thinking but thought if I could drive the hinge pins out, I could get better access to the remaining bolts.

Are these like 911 pins?
Old 04-19-2017, 01:54 PM
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Rob Edwards
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If you undo the triple-square bolts holding the door arrestors to the body you can swing the doors open wider to get 'straight-on' access to the six socket head cap screws. Then if you use a 1/4" spiral extractor chucked in a lefty-loosey impact gun, they'll spin right out, whether you heat them or not, stripped or not. I have done the heat and chisel thing, it involves great pain. With the screw extractor and an impact, 5 minutes to take a door off.



Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108A:

Old 04-19-2017, 02:35 PM
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Rob thats cheating
Old 04-19-2017, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Rob thats cheating
Hah! I guess I am a cheater too. My Snap On guy will be here tomorrow with the set
Old 04-19-2017, 08:51 PM
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I helped do this on my repaint years ago when we did a doors out, windows out paintjob.

The door hinges can adjust up and down as well as in and outward. the only thing that keeps the door aligned are the hinge bolts. The best thing you can do before you remove them is remove the door brake. (that is the assembly that keeps the door from slamming shut and popping open to far) Then put tape on the fender and the door where they might hit each other if the door opened too far. Slowly open the door as far as you can without damaging the paint. This takes 2 people.

Then drill 2 holes the exact size of a small steel rod. We used 1/8th inch... Make sure the holes are drilled upper and lower opposite of each other. These will be alignment pins that are used so that when the door is reinstalled it is aligned exactly where it was before removal and no extra alignment work is needed.
Old 04-19-2017, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy
Hello!

Judging by my search results, no one has ever removed a 928 door
I am pulling doors off my parts car and had zero issue with the driver side. The passenger side has a couple of stripped hex heads.
no one tells the bad stuff here, ....makes a resale very hard....
No to pins, you have to do it the hard way, here's a pic of the backside, no access, so it's a full frontal attack!

This is the left side, but both are the same.

Last edited by OTR18WHEELER; 04-19-2017 at 11:57 PM.
Old 04-20-2017, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by OTR18WHEELER
no one tells the bad stuff here, ....makes a resale very hard....
No to pins, you have to do it the hard way, here's a pic of the backside, no access, so it's a full frontal attack!

This is the left side, but both are the same.
you said full frontal..hee hee.
Old 04-20-2017, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
If you undo the triple-square bolts holding the door arrestors to the body you can swing the doors open wider to get 'straight-on' access to the six socket head cap screws. Then if you use a 1/4" spiral extractor chucked in a lefty-loosey impact gun, they'll spin right out, whether you heat them or not, stripped or not. I have done the heat and chisel thing, it involves great pain. With the screw extractor and an impact, 5 minutes to take a door off.



Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108.
This worked like a charm.....except I had to use the 9/32 size tapped in with a hammer. Bought a whole set, worked fantastic! Thanks for the great tip!!

Originally Posted by 928sg
I helped do this on my repaint years ago when we did a doors out, windows out paintjob.

The door hinges can adjust up and down as well as in and outward. the only thing that keeps the door aligned are the hinge bolts. The best thing you can do before you remove them is remove the door brake. (that is the assembly that keeps the door from slamming shut and popping open to far) Then put tape on the fender and the door where they might hit each other if the door opened too far. Slowly open the door as far as you can without damaging the paint. This takes 2 people.

Then drill 2 holes the exact size of a small steel rod. We used 1/8th inch... Make sure the holes are drilled upper and lower opposite of each other. These will be alignment pins that are used so that when the door is reinstalled it is aligned exactly where it was before removal and no extra alignment work is needed.
Great idea for re-installation!

Originally Posted by OTR18WHEELER
no one tells the bad stuff here, ....makes a resale very hard....
No to pins, you have to do it the hard way, here's a pic of the backside, no access, so it's a full frontal attack!

This is the left side, but both are the same.
I did remove the door check to allow full frontal access. Looks like my 79 uses 5mm while the 83 uses 6mm. In the end, the extractors did the trick simply!!

Thanks to all !!
Old 04-18-2020, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
If you undo the triple-square bolts holding the door arrestors to the body you can swing the doors open wider to get 'straight-on' access to the six socket head cap screws. Then if you use a 1/4" spiral extractor chucked in a lefty-loosey impact gun, they'll spin right out, whether you heat them or not, stripped or not. I have done the heat and chisel thing, it involves great pain. With the screw extractor and an impact, 5 minutes to take a door off.



Snap on calls them multispline extractors. $6 for the 1/4" size, PN REX108A:



@#$&%!!! On order.


So you chuck this thing up, push it into the head of the bolt and “pull the trigger” on the impact gun.?

ive never had to use an extractor before and i only have one shot at this.

Ill take all and any advice...any details i need.



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