So I switched out my leaking steering rack with a replacement unit and I'm having trouble getting the steering shaft to seat all the way into u-joint. I had a lot of trouble getting it apart and had to use a pickle fork but before installing the replacement rack I checked the splines on the u-joint, cleaned them with a brass brush in a drill, seperated the joint a little more, and lubed it up with moly.
When putting it back together I hung the rack and started the joint onto the splines before bolting up the rack tight so it should be aligned.
I've tried tapping the joint back together but no luck. Now I have a bar clamp in line with the shaft and joint trying to pull the units together but it's not budging.
What I'm thinking is to maybe spread the joint apart a little more but I'm afraid to break the aluminum. Anyone ever break one of these? Should I try putting some heat to it? Any suggestions?
I should have just bought a new joint but at this point there's not enough time before Hershey.
TIA.

 

Just did it last Saturday on 86 usa.
You'd want to go in-out with brass brush, not rotary.
I've dressed them with a jewlers file before.

Yes, can spread it open a bit, doesn't take huge effort, can be done with a large-ended flat head screw driver.

I generally have the rack very loose when making the U joint connection.

Should be a very smooth fit, with just a little tapping force to assist.

 

Thanks. Had to use an air chisel to spread the joint open enough to get it on but it worked.
The only problem I have now is with the joint lined up enough to get the bolt thru the joint the steering wheel is not lined up. Gonna have to take it off again and use some trial and error between aligning the steering wheel and the joint to get it right. Good times��

 

Other approach is to center the thru bolt across flat on rack, with plastic viewport open and dimple centered visually, then remove steerung wheel and reset it.

 

The splined shaft on a rebuilt rack will never, ever, be in the same orientation as the shaft of the rack you've removed. The steering wheel always has to be adjusted.

This is especially interesting on '90+ with airbags as you have to remove not only the wheel but also the stalk assembly so that the clock spring stays roughly in the middle.

 

Isn't simpler (especially for '90+ cars) to re-clock the rack?

 

This is at the top of my "most hated job" list. Just did it, and lots of good advice above. My only advice is spread as much as possible. I used a chisel and a press to do it.
You have my sympathy.

 

I dunno. Have you done it?

It would tend to void rebuilders' warranty.

... and will still be a guess with the likely result of needing to move the wheel or adjusting toe. But, if it takes less than ~20 minutes would be a win on 90+.

 

Yes, a few times, two-minute job. There is a good discussion of the topic in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-shaft.html

Details with pics are in post# 60.