Speedtoys

I had that too.

Then I cleaned the pod contacts.

Jim M.

In that case I think you have two problems, a bad gauge (connection or bad grounds) and a water flow problem causing the no heat issue.

hacker-pschorr

My 87 too. The needle doesn't move until I smack the pod then it works fine until the next startup.
It's on the list.......

Mongo

I had the pod off and cluster out before to fix an odometer issue. When it was out, I cleaned the little "football" contacts that plug into the back of the gauges. The instruments worked great after that!

It couldn't hurt to go back in and do it again of course. My only fault from the last time was the lack of Deoxit. I suppose I can also rub a little bit of Deoxit on the contacts where the cables from the wiring harness connect to the circuit foil without any detrimental effects?

SeanR

Buy a new one and you won't have any more issues. I know it's easy to say but you know that the price will never be cheaper than it is today.

Mongo

Gauge? They are still being made?! :wow:

I was tempted to pick up a new circuit foil too.

SeanR

No, the circuit foil.

Speedtoys

Ya...mine used to move up a lot, then bounce down...

Lots of pod issues went away with deoxit and cleaning. Esp how DIRTY the bulbs were. OMG.

Mongo

Jeff exactly what parts did you clean to fix it? I may tear into it tomorrow night after I find a source in SF for Deoxit on the way home.

Just want to confirm what to clean again. I know Dwayne did a great write up a while back on this.

hacker-pschorr

I'm waiting until I decide on what to do with the dash, once that is in the works I'll start taking apart the pod / dash to go through everything.

Mongo

It dawned on me to post a picture I took of the Laso water pump I installed on my car almost 4 years ago:



Again, this pump has less than 1,500 miles on it. I THINK the brown impeller is the new design pump that is less prone to failure. I also see some sort of bushing in between the shaft and the plastic impeller. Has anyone had a failure with this new style yet?

I'm still weighing a 'worse case scenario here'. I have a porken tensioner on mine so I don't need that extra shaft the other S4s do running the OE belt tensioner. OB pump will work fine. Looks like the GEBA is still my only option for a pump replacement.

dr bob

Didja change the thermostat and the seals yet? It seams like you are torturing yourself over a lot of absolutely worst-case scenarios when it's quite likely the thermostat is sticking from not being exercised. Cheap. Easy. Likely. The old one is bypassing a lot of coolant around the radiator, and in the process not enough pressure drop through the HCV and heater core or radiator to cause flow. Until the pump is spinning faster and more flow is bypassing, then you get some pressure drop through the heater circuit and radiator, some flow, and some heat in the cabin. What's not to love about changing the thermostat as a first step? Cross it off your list with a new one and less than 30 mins of wrench time. Including clean-up. Nickel to a dollar (my nickel...) says this will take care of you.

Mongo

That is very encouraging. Thanks

Mrmerlin

Andy, also swap out the heater control valve the short hose and the coolant bottle cap if they are older than 5 years.
On the thermostat make sure to replace the rear seal as well,
this part causes a lot of cooling issues

Mongo

The thermostat and seals are supposed to come in today. I ordered the inner seal that sits behind the thermostat in the order. I will be diving into it this weekend. The wife and I will be doing a brake bleed and pad swap tonight.