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First...I've tracking a coolant leak and think I've found the culprit, pretty sure this is the heater control valve
More important question is...When I took the air box off, it revealed the MAF, should there be a gasket (there wasnt one present) or is it just metal to metal. The picture is where it slides into the intake. It just slid out, does the pressure from the outside 13mm bolts on the air box hold it in place and provide and adequate seal? I don't see how.
Last edited by retcav1sg; 02-08-2017 at 05:30 PM.
Reason: ew info
about the heater control valve it should be replaced as well as the short hose its connected too.
I also suggest to replace the coolant bottle cap, the thermostat and the rear seal and front O ring, also the drain plug and the vent port on the top of the radiator.
NOTE the vent port and the drain plug are sealed with O rings so just snug is sufficient to seal them
NOTE you will need 2 gallons of coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water to refill the system from empty ,
make sure to remove the block drains each side of the V holds about 1.2 gallons
I use Zerex Go 5 coolant, the water i get from the supermarket
Thanks...upon further inspection we found the o-ring. I guess the Air Flow Meter came with the older cars and the MAF with the 32V cars? As I was searching for if it had a gasket, I almost went into shock, those things are expensive
Stan, the parts list you sent me should be coming from Roger tomorrow, thanks tons!! Hopefully it doesn't turn into a complicated job. It looks fairly simple to replace the hoses, valves, thermostat, etc, etc. Any landmines you can help me avoid?
Sarg, I forget if you have to be a member, but may I suggest you do that and then put the MY of your car and any other pertinent details in your signature line. I can't tell, but that fuel line near the fire wall looks original. Get Greg's kit if you can afford it, but replace the fuel lines. The heater valve is straight forward; there is a short hose at the other end of the heater box.